FTX Outlaw Owners

[Steve Wharton]

15 hours ago, Rubblechops said:

Well, received a replacement FTX motor (third motor now).  Before plumbing it in though I ordered a Hobbywing Heatsink fan.  Had to adjust (cut) the size to fit (lopped off about 7 fins so it was semi-circular.  All fitted and great.  Plugged in the fan to the Rx.  No life.  Dismounted the fan and it starts.  I can only conclude that the magnet in the drive motor is too bloody strong to let the fan operate.  How do peeps get around this problem?  Not really wanting to fry yet another motor after 30 minutes.

I've never run a fan on a motor either, just om my ESC... What battery are you using?

[Lone-wolf]

My wife has an outlaw, we call it the "Dirty fairy", its been okay but think it may be time to retire it as i am totally fed up with replacing motors, and have to say replacing bodyshells, one little hit to front of shell and it cracks, once it goes it just gets worse with every little hit, its on 4th or 5th motor now, tried 540 and 550, always run them in under water, replaced stock esc, its a rig i want to like but the breaking just puts me of it, may get a clear shell for my carnage and spray it up in her colours, "Team dirty fairy racing" 

[tomr]

2 hours ago, Jack Reacher said:

My wife has an outlaw, we call it the "Dirty fairy", its been okay but think it may be time to retire it as i am totally fed up with replacing motors, and have to say replacing bodyshells, one little hit to front of shell and it cracks, once it goes it just gets worse with every little hit, its on 4th or 5th motor now, tried 540 and 550, always run them in under water, replaced stock esc, its a rig i want to like but the breaking just puts me of it, may get a clear shell for my carnage and spray it up in her colours, "Team dirty fairy racing" 

 

Might be worth throwing a cheapo Brushless combo in ?

Mines been great on 2s ,it’s had some pretty hard sessions in the woods .

[Lone-wolf]

1 hour ago, tomr said:

 

Might be worth throwing a cheapo Brushless combo in ?

Mines been great on 2s ,it’s had some pretty hard sessions in the woods .

Seems she wants to keep the outlaw, so have you a link to to a brushless combo that works, would mostly be on NI-MH packs

[tomr]

3 hours ago, Jack Reacher said:

Seems she wants to keep the outlaw, so have you a link to to a brushless combo that works, would mostly be on NI-MH packs

 
 

 

 

I run a 2600kv motor https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2600KV-Surpass-3660-Waterproof-4-Pole-Brushless-Motor-Parts-for-RC-Car-Vehicle/353176986557?hash=item523afd23bd:g:7f0AAOSwEzlfPzUN
 

and this esc should be fine  https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/60A-Waterproof-Brushless-Motor-Brushless-Speed-Controller-Sensorless-ESC/402360791545?hash=item5dae9271f9:g:XmAAAOSwJ2lfNO0E

 

 

or you could try a 540 size combo  ,probably run pretty cool on Nimh packs 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/For-1-10-RC-Car-3650-3500KV-Brushless-Motor-with-60A-ESC-Combo-Set-Waterproof-UK/193563447298?epid=21036826418&hash=item2d1147d002:g:vRAAAOSwadhfCBb-

Edited September 26, 2020 by tomr

[Rubblechops]

9 hours ago, Steve Wharton said:

I've never run a fan on a motor either, just om my ESC... What battery are you using?

3000 mA Ni-MH & 5000mA Ni-MH, both 7.2v.  Nothing exciting really.

 

Found a way to mount the heat sink fan on the motor finally.  Used my third FTX stock brushed motor.  Went ok yesterday for both batteries, we even started having fun.  Today it's back to sluggish pace, can barely reverse.  Took out the FTX motor and fitted the Abisma Thrust Eco 15T  I ordered.  Bench test fine.  Ran it on grass in the park, same problem.  Smelled burny and after only 2 minutes in the park it had burned out, no smoke or anything, just dead (tested by connecting battery directly, having removed it first).  

 

Found a lump of metal jammed in the mech.  It fell out after some fiddling.  Not great, another part to go back to the RC shop.

 

 

Scorch marks inside the heatsink.

 

 

I avoided brushless as I did not think it suitable for my kid, but would this be a more reliable option.  

 

Can anyone recommend some dependable reliable guts (motor, ESC) in both brushed and brushless form?

 

Going to give it one last shot.

 

[Rubblechops]

On 24/09/2020 at 18:25, garymartin2110 said:

just bought another standard same make as original one off ebay pal but cars alot faster than it was 

This worked for me twice now.  On my third motor with probably less than an hours driving on the car from new.  Runs fine at first then complete crap (sigh).

[Rubblechops]

Ha, lols.  Anyone seen this?

 

Looks exactly like the Outlaw but with loads of the upgrades everyone has been adding.  Anyone tried one?

 

[Lone-wolf]

my wife wants to keep her car, so gonna go brushless on it,, just need to decide  which combo (budget), i am a fan of racerstar so might look to Banggood for a combo

[garymartin2110]

On 26/09/2020 at 17:59, Rubblechops said:

This worked for me twice now.  On my third motor with probably less than an hours driving on the car from new.  Runs fine at first then complete crap (sigh).

you dont seem to be having much luck my first motor would get really hot after a few minutes of use my new one i ran 2 batterys through it today 1 after other and wasnt even that hot im using 4700mah nimh batterys

[Steve Wharton]

I used 5200mah on my factory brushed set up and it was great... especially at lower speeds with the drag feature engaged, which is what I wanted. 

[garymartin2110]

made myself a bigger front bumper used a old ice scraper i had 😂 also swapped esc for a 1060 but car keeps going into limp mode any ideas

[Stormbringer]

battery going flat ?

lvc set to high ?

Edited September 29, 2020 by Stormbringer

[garymartin2110]

53 minutes ago, Stormbringer said:

battery going flat ?

lvc set to high ?

tried a few fresh batterys still going into limp mode i have to switch wires as it was running faster in reverse wasnt doing this on standard esc 

 

put old esc on and it runs fine and seems a little faster than the 1060 and motor seem to run cooler on the standard esc 

[Lone-wolf]

On 29/09/2020 at 18:22, garymartin2110 said:

tried a few fresh batterys still going into limp mode i have to switch wires as it was running faster in reverse wasnt doing this on standard esc 

 

put old esc on and it runs fine and seems a little faster than the 1060 and motor seem to run cooler on the standard esc 

Was the 1060 a non hobbywing i.e an ebay clone i fitted one and waste of money, we have just come back from alittle holiday that was to include a bit of off roading on the great orme but the esc sadly lasted only  few minutes, lost drag brake, then lost reverse, then it just kept going into shutdown, was gonna stick a brushless set up on it but decided to order another different esc, also is the a nice body to replace the fragile eggshell body as getting a bit fed up with replacing broken shells

[garymartin2110]

got it off ebay came in genuine box with hologram done some searching online and found a few ppl having same issue and supposedly adding 2 capacitors to the esc fixes the issue so ordered the part and will update if it fixes the problem 

[Rubblechops]

So I followed the trend and fitted a brushless motor and esc combo. Maybe I went overboard getting a 35C 5000mAh 3S (my first LiPo experience).

 

I also upgraded the rear CVD to an FTX branded metal one.  I used threadlock on both of the pins needed to attached it to the drivetrain.

 

After 3 minutes of 'Holy Crap this thing's fast' it threw one of the other bolts in the joint and the whole barrel came out, lost in the grass who-knows-where.  I assume next time one should threadlock every damn bolt on the thing oneself?

 

It did seem that when I unfastened the same bolt at the other end that they did have some threadlock on them.  Must have been crap stuff.

 

Anyway, is there any hope of find a replacement barrel thing and associated bolt?  Can't see them listed as a separate part on the manual.  Or am I looking at shelling out once again for a whole new metal CVD?

 

Below, missing in-between thingy.

 

 

Below, the other end showing the thingy that went MIA.

 

[NOFX]

Some heat shrink ( like electricians use helps keep the grub screws in. Super glue on the threads helps too. Mine kept spitting screws so I modded a traxxas summit drive shaft to fit & I've not had a problem since 😁

[Steve Wharton]

16 hours ago, Rubblechops said:

So I followed the trend and fitted a brushless motor and esc combo. Maybe I went overboard getting a 35C 5000mAh 3S (my first LiPo experience).

 

I also upgraded the rear CVD to an FTX branded metal one.  I used threadlock on both of the pins needed to attached it to the drivetrain.

 

After 3 minutes of 'Holy Crap this thing's fast' it threw one of the other bolts in the joint and the whole barrel came out, lost in the grass who-knows-where.  I assume next time one should threadlock every damn bolt on the thing oneself?

 

It did seem that when I unfastened the same bolt at the other end that they did have some threadlock on them.  Must have been crap stuff.

 

Anyway, is there any hope of find a replacement barrel thing and associated bolt?  Can't see them listed as a separate part on the manual.  Or am I looking at shelling out once again for a whole new metal CVD?

 

Below, missing in-between thingy.

 

 

Below, the other end showing the thingy that went MIA.

 

 

Unfortunately you won't find spare replacement parts, you will need to buy the full assembly... I sealed mine very well with loctite 243.

 

 

[dazzik]

So I followed the trend and fitted a brushless motor and esc combo. Maybe I went overboard getting a 35C 5000mAh 3S (my first LiPo experience).
 
I also upgraded the rear CVD to an FTX branded metal one.  I used threadlock on both of the pins needed to attached it to the drivetrain.
 
After 3 minutes of 'Holy Crap this thing's fast' it threw one of the other bolts in the joint and the whole barrel came out, lost in the grass who-knows-where.  I assume next time one should threadlock every damn bolt on the thing oneself?
 
It did seem that when I unfastened the same bolt at the other end that they did have some threadlock on them.  Must have been crap stuff.
 
Anyway, is there any hope of find a replacement barrel thing and associated bolt?  Can't see them listed as a separate part on the manual.  Or am I looking at shelling out once again for a whole new metal CVD?
 
Below, missing in-between thingy.
 

 
Below, the other end showing the thingy that went MIA.
 

Did the same with 2s, replaced the CVD to metal and same happened to me. I went back to plastic, but this time soaked the plastics in “WD40” and had no issues since. On the plus side it’s cheaper than the pins & grub screws also helps the rear hub.


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[Redback]

I just got that driveshaft today and same thing after 3 min, the pin falls out as its held in with "magic" aka nothing, once you loose the small cotter pin, you loose the big one and the joint. I was able to canablize one of the old plastic ones then made a new pin from some jumbo body clips, cut and bent over the ends, not fancy but does the job. Really dissapointing for the cost of the thing, looks like a cheap ebay one posted before is more solid lol.

On that point can you please link the alloy servo saver, i picked up a hbx adjustable one and will report on how it fits as i couldnt find an alloy one at the usal suspects.

[Redback]

Sorry for the double post, Has anyone had any luck mounting Axial wheels to the hubs of the outlaw, besides the rubbing on the front steering arms, There is not enough thread to properly set the wheel nut on the end of the axle.
https://www.modelsport.co.uk/index.php?product_id=375697

There is 10mm of thread on the outlaw wheelbolts.
https://www.modelsport.co.uk/index.php?product_id=365847
Ideally i need 15mm looking at the axial wraith ones.

These look like they might fit but would have to drop the inner bearing along with hoping they reach the diff output cups.
https://www.modelsport.co.uk/index.php?product_id=388138

Will probably need to offset them some more to prevent the inner beadlock nuts rubbing so need the extra thread for 3 or 5mm hex nuts.

As for the back axle, maybe this will work?
https://www.modelsport.co.uk/axial-ar60-ocp-full-width-axle-adapter-set/rc-car-products/395295

From fitting it seems standard wraith wheel hexes will do ok and these wont be needed, just have to sand down some of the rear axle plastic that makes the wheel bind a tad.
If this isnt the place to ask, let me know if i should make it a seperate thread?

[DartmoorTrails]

I have Axial beads on mine. You just need a hub extender to bring it away from the axle, like these; https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/383665318580

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[DAL3D]

Firstly thanks to everyone that's contributed to this thread that I think I've read from start to finish before during and after my Outlaw purchase!!

 

I was going to get a Carnage but when I went to order they were OOS so did a bit or research (here mostly) and thought the Outlaw would be a good laugh. Mostly for hooning about in the garden and neighbouring fields with the dog in hot pursuit! (lessons learned there.. more later)

 

So Outlaw received - all stock.. dog is interested!!

So unsurprisingly the first bump on the front resulted in the chassis / bumper departing company company so a few upgrades were duly ordered. Then between ordering and dispatch I had to avoid the pooch and collided with a wall rather than his legs. Wall 1 - 0 Outlaw:

 

 

A quick call to Modelsport and a few more parts were added to the order!

 

New parts arrived!! so..
Chassis swap - gave me a chance to get a bit more hands on as it was RTR - would have preffered a kit but ho-hum

Front sway bar mod  while it was all apart

New Radio gear installed - I'm old and didn't really like the steering wheel one that came with it - good old sticks for me!

 

Serviced all the shocks as one had come lose and splurted all it's oil somewhere.

 

Moved battery tray lower (with new hole in top tray to keep it all secure)  Moved the ESC etc all about compared to std:

 

Then used the unused battery tray bracket to brace the top rear near the suspension struts (will get some more bracing in there soon) : Placed a washer next to the top of the shock mounts as this popped off a few times when the pooch chomped at it:

 

And then tread-locked everything I could!

 

And as I'd bought some shiny new parts, the OH decided to upgrade her Maverick Strada XB Evo to Lipo / brushless - so the dining table was a mini garage For a bit!

 

And lastly the rear tyre is gone.. mostly so it doesn't wheelie all the time but also because it was a perfect "bite point" for the dog to chew and pick it up with! Might find a wing to put there instead. Any recommendations?!

 

 

 

Now waiting on various blue metal bits to wing their way from the far east to stiffen up that rear end a bit. The Shock service and the sway bar has helped though.

 

Thanks for reading if you got this far..

Edited October 25, 2020 by DAL3D

[Redback]

@DAL3D Welcome fellow outlaw, you boke her in well! Loving the mods right off the bat, awesome to see, should make quite a bit of difference.
 

9 hours ago, DartmoorTrails said:

I have Axial beads on mine. You just need a hub extender to bring it away from the axle, like these; https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/383665318580

Cheers, these look far to wide for what im wanting but it puts me in the right direction knowing you can get. Those long insetting wheel nuts I like that, brilliant!

Edited October 25, 2020 by Redback