Rubblechops

Well, I bought a range of shock oils (great speedy delivery from Modelsport) to try. Tried 900cst which felt looser than the stock oil. Bit in the end I filled all four with 550cst which makes it very much more flexible and even aruns with a bit of sag. How really good now over rough grass but I can see that 900cst woild t least be required to do jumps to help stop major bottoming out. Running a bit more pre-load with the 550cst oil too. Also switched the shock mounts on the (rear I think) to stop the springs rubbing on the arms. Luckily I have an FTX Outlaw and do was able to swap and check that the mounts from this would work in the Maverick. Used two and some longer 18mm M3 screws to secure. No more rubbing springs😊

So what's everyone using for shock oil? Used to running an FTX Outlaw on it's stock oil which is described as '400#' in the manual, whatever that is. I like the squishyness of the Outlaw although in reality it could do with a slightly thicker oil. The Maverick MT is way heavier when holding each in each hand so I guess it would not be appropriate to replicate the Outlaw. But the Maverick's suspension is next to useless when stock, it hardly bloody moves. Before I throw a wodge of cash on random oils I'd be grateful for any tips.👍

Just got the flux MT for kid 2 for Xmas. Hope it's less hassle than the FTX Outlaw I got for his brother earlier in the year!

Maybe tow a stuffed toy behind it as a decoy?

Having some trouble understanding the different cut off options offered in the programming menu, as described in the manual for this ESC. Instead of choosing simple preset numerical voltage levels it offers (low to high): 'Disabled' (for Ni-Mh) 'Auto' (Low) - for batteries with poor discharge capability. 'Auto'(Intermediate) - for batteries with ordinary discharge capability. 'Auto'(High) - for batteries with great discharge capability. Being a relative noob this is all a bit confusing. Just ran a 5000 Ma 2C Lipo which cut off a wee bit early when using the intermediate cut off setting. Please can someone advise what the voltages Hobbywing actually have in mind above? Thanks

So I followed the trend and fitted a brushless motor and esc combo. Maybe I went overboard getting a 35C 5000mAh 3S (my first LiPo experience). I also upgraded the rear CVD to an FTX branded metal one. I used threadlock on both of the pins needed to attached it to the drivetrain. After 3 minutes of 'Holy Crap this thing's fast' it threw one of the other bolts in the joint and the whole barrel came out, lost in the grass who-knows-where. I assume next time one should threadlock every damn bolt on the thing oneself? It did seem that when I unfastened the same bolt at the other end that they did have some threadlock on them. Must have been crap stuff. Anyway, is there any hope of find a replacement barrel thing and associated bolt? Can't see them listed as a separate part on the manual. Or am I looking at shelling out once again for a whole new metal CVD? Below, missing in-between thingy. Below, the other end showing the thingy that went MIA.

Ha, lols. Anyone seen this? Looks exactly like the Outlaw but with loads of the upgrades everyone has been adding. Anyone tried one?

This worked for me twice now. On my third motor with probably less than an hours driving on the car from new. Runs fine at first then complete crap (sigh).

3000 mA Ni-MH & 5000mA Ni-MH, both 7.2v. Nothing exciting really. Found a way to mount the heat sink fan on the motor finally. Used my third FTX stock brushed motor. Went ok yesterday for both batteries, we even started having fun. Today it's back to sluggish pace, can barely reverse. Took out the FTX motor and fitted the Abisma Thrust Eco 15T I ordered. Bench test fine. Ran it on grass in the park, same problem. Smelled burny and after only 2 minutes in the park it had burned out, no smoke or anything, just dead (tested by connecting battery directly, having removed it first). Found a lump of metal jammed in the mech. It fell out after some fiddling. Not great, another part to go back to the RC shop. Scorch marks inside the heatsink. I avoided brushless as I did not think it suitable for my kid, but would this be a more reliable option. Can anyone recommend some dependable reliable guts (motor, ESC) in both brushed and brushless form? Going to give it one last shot.

Well, received a replacement FTX motor (third motor now). Before plumbing it in though I ordered a Hobbywing Heatsink fan. Had to adjust (cut) the size to fit (lopped off about 7 fins so it was semi-circular. All fitted and great. Plugged in the fan to the Rx. No life. Dismounted the fan and it starts. I can only conclude that the magnet in the drive motor is too bloody strong to let the fan operate. How do peeps get around this problem? Not really wanting to fry yet another motor after 30 minutes.

Which motor?

And is it any good?!

Would this work? https://www.absima.shop/RC-ACCESSORIES/RC-Electronic/Brushed-Motor-ESC/Electric-Motor-Thrust-eco-15T.htm?shop=absima_en&SessionId=&a=article&ProdNr=2310060&t=19114&c=19131&p=19131

Speed is fine for a beginner. Finding it hard to find another 550 15T motor. Either the speed is different (usually 540)bor the turns a just out. Will this matter much?

So far we've just ragged it around the grass in the park. At some point we'll take it to some dirt but there's not much point if it keeps breaking down. Just need something that will work.

Hi. I think this was asked somwhere on this thread bit I could not see an answer. Can anyone recommend a reliable brushed motor to replace the two stock motors I've burned through in short time? I've upgraded the ESC to the Hobbywing 1060 as suggested in here. Did not stop the 2nd newly installed motor from frying after only two runs. I'm only running ni-mh batteries and will do for the foreseeable (really my boy's car so I don't want to run over any dogs in the local park). Cheers