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FTX Outlaw Owners


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8 hours ago, t2boats said:

 

Diffs are fine, I'm running 3800kv / 23t pinion / 120A esc on 3S with no issues at all, it's handled it. You can spend mega money on an expensive brand name RC - and still crunch the diffs from an awkward landing and break other components. For £125ish it is what it is. A decent base to start modding if you want that sort of thing. Brushless combo's can be had (or even make up your own) for under £50, there's so many to choose from. 

I guess it’s a modding game or buy something better to start with then.

If the motor dies so easily is there no warranty to replace them as they are clearly not fit for purpose.

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Evening. Right we have been out today to use my sons outlaw at the beach along with a vantage and  maverick strada. After a few minutes the outlaw just took off at full pelt and couldn't be controlled or stopped. It ended up going 100 metres down the beach and into the sea with us chasing like mad people and hoping a loose dog might grab it before the inevitable. I presume this is perhaps due to maybe the controller losing power and the failsafe not kicking in? Thinking this as it does the same if you turn off the controller before the car. 

 

Anyway got home dried it off and the receiver was soaked and now has no power. I have tested the esc with the receiver from the vantage and forward and reverse are fine. However won't turn the wheels the servo just twitches. I'm presuming the servo has been screwed too. 

 

I have found the direct replacements on modelsport.co.uk, but wondering if anyone has any thoughts on reasonably priced alternatives that may be better? 

 

Any help appreciated. 

 

P. S. All three cars were amazing on the sand! 

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@Welsh40 ah mate unlucky! Yeah it’s best to just renew the electrics. And running on sand is absolutely great, but the cleaning afterwards :huh:  

Receivers are cheap as chips, the FlySky receiver binds to the eTronix Rx no problems (they’re the same thing!). But for quick postage I’d go for one from modelsport again, or see if someone in the UK on eBay are selling the FlySky 3ch receivers. The twitching could just be your receiver. But, as for steering servo’s - are ten a penny, so many to choose from. Could be a good opportunity to upgrade to a more powerful servo. I’ve used allsorts of makes over the years, my Outlaw now has a TowerPro 20kg servo fitted. Very powerful! You can try Turnigy, and recently I’ve bought and tried a HDKJ 15kg - proved itself very well indeed, and they’re waterproof. 

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Great thank you. 

 

This morning the receiver has seemed to have come back to life but still no steering on the car. I put the receiver in the vantage and worked fine. So it seems its just the servo or wire to the servo that is an issue now. Think I'll order a upgraded one and be done with it. Also ordered a sky fly receiver off ebay as a spare. 

 

I'm still finding sand everywhere!! 

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Yeah it takes some cleaning! I’ve got a little air compressor so I blow off whatever I can at first, either brush off some more or wait until the sand becomes dry then blow the rest off. Then spray it all with either wd40 or 3-in-1 oil spray. Always worked for me!

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Greeting all.

 

Thank you to the many forum members on here that have been posting info about the FTX Outlaw in this thread. You have been a great help to me and I wish I could do more for you than say Thank You. Here's an internet round for the house on me; Cheers everyone!

 

I am an American living in Germany and stumbled across the Reely Bulldog(local German electronics store rebadge of the VRX Octane) in a local shop. I was very interested in the truggy since the price was right but didn't buy right away since I'm extremely new to hobby level RCs and was not sold on the idea of having a cheap RC I couldn't find parts for, or have any aftermarket upgrades for tuning it up and just wouldn't get much long term use out of. Early in my internet research I found out that it is not actually made in Germany but by River Hobby Tech (Shen Zen) and then rebadged for local sales through a few companies and one of those companies is in The States; having parts support in the long term was a make it, or break it issue for me.

 

I came across this forum/thread and learned everything I needed to know to feel secure in purchasing one locally and I'm very happy that I did! You guys covered anything I was wondering about and plenty I didn't even know to be concerned over. Several members here have made upgrades that show I can tune this truggy to my hearts content and get more than just fair return on my investment when considering money spent to the grins on my face factor. 

I probably could have found some of this info on German RC forums but I just plain don't like these folks here and having the option to read about the experiences of FTX owners who speak English rather than the google translated forum pages of Germans is vastly preferred... 

 

 

I'm loving this car and have big plans for developing an U4RC inspired track/playground in my neighborhood. I have the 550 motor in it and will hold off on a brushless conversion for a bit as right now I am still learning how to drive it well and truly don't need the power increase. I figure I should be able to drive properly before throwing a bunch of power to the wheels!

I have changed the shock oil to 60wt., locked up the rear diff. with epoxy, filled the front diff. with the heaviest oil they carry locally and run it on 2s LiPo batteries.

This truggy is a beast! I've been driving in a local soil dumping area which is on the outskirts of an industrial park and it climbs, jumps, slings sand/soil better than I really expected; this thing truly puts a grin on my face. 

 

 

 

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My Outlaw turned up today and i have added the rear strut brace, fitted a new 7kg digital metal gear servo but i had to modify it alot to get it to fit and not hit the centre drive shaft ( man this was a pain in the ass ) and stop the steering link from binding on the servo body.

Then i did a water break in on the brushed motor, man the colour of the water afterwards was black, took out the rear diff and locked that with bluetak.

Tomorrows jobs will be first to give it a run then fab and fit a rear anti roll bar, not sure what else to do next apart from go brushless.

Got a sensored brushless esc on order and am wondering if a 13.5t brushless motor will be ok on 3 cell, well 3s is where i want to be as all my lipos are 3s dont have many 2s packs, and i dont want to start pulling apart any of my 3cell nanotech's just to make some 2cel pack out of them.

Anyway on with reading the rest of this thread.

 

 

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Edited by rct
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@rct  congrats on your new RC! 3S is where I like to run my Outlaw, can still drive it steadily but also have that punch for some serious performance. The 13.5T motor (which is somewhere around the 3000 to 3300kv ish!?!) will be fun on 3S too. Also worthwhile to pick up the ali motor mount aswell, minimise any flex in the gearbox between the pinion and spur so will help things last. 

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50 minutes ago, t2boats said:

@rct  congrats on your new RC! 3S is where I like to run my Outlaw, can still drive it steadily but also have that punch for some serious performance. The 13.5T motor (which is somewhere around the 3000 to 3300kv ish!?!) will be fun on 3S too. Also worthwhile to pick up the ali motor mount aswell, minimise any flex in the gearbox between the pinion and spur so will help things last. 

Right alu mount it is, thanks for the reply i hope to have some good fun with this ride.

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@rct  You'll like it, they're not a bad platform at all, and when you fit your brushless combo it's a massive difference. I began by changing to some FTX ali parts replacing the areas I thought would give rise to any flex, so at least it's sturdy, popped in a 3800kv 3660 motor and 120a ESC with a 3S lipo, and 20kg steering servo. It's great! Then added my rear anti role bar to keep it planted on all four. 

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12 minutes ago, t2boats said:

@rct  You'll like it, they're not a bad platform at all, and when you fit your brushless combo it's a massive difference. I began by changing to some FTX ali parts replacing the areas I thought would give rise to any flex, so at least it's sturdy, popped in a 3800kv 3660 motor and 120a ESC with a 3S lipo, and 20kg steering servo. It's great! Then added my rear anti role bar to keep it planted on all four. 

 

That's a mad set-up. I run mine on 3500kv 2s and that's pretty quick. 3800kv 3s must be ludicrous!

 

Were you experiencing gearbox flex, or was the alloy mount more of a precaution?

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Just now, Praet0r87 said:

 

That's a mad set-up. I run mine on 3500kv 2s and that's pretty quick. 3800kv 3s must be ludicrous!

 

Were you experiencing gearbox flex, or was the alloy mount more of a precaution?

 

A precaution really, didn't like the look of the stock plastic mount so went for the ali upgrade. Then wondered if there's an ali gearbox casing for the Outlaw (they make one for the Outback), sadly not though.... :unsure:   It's also running a 23T pinion, and not chewed a single spur gear either. It notched up 50mph on this set up according to the GPS which I'm more than happy with. 

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Good to know. I'll hold off, for the moment. Unless I start getting issues with it. I doubt it, as the 3500kv system on 2s is only marginally more powerful than the standard brushless Outlaw. 50mph!... Yeah, that's properly quick!

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@Praet0r87  It's limiting factor is definitely the tyres, I couldn't get the motor to reach its peak rpm as they balloon sooo much at high speeds like that and it becomes uncontrollable really, but on the other hand they're incredibly grippy so I'll stick with them. From when I bought it, aswell as seeing how good I can get it to cover rough ground quickly, I just wanted to do a few speed tests and see if the car would reach 50mph without falling apart, and it's proved that's well within its capabilities. Perhaps if I were to fit a tyre of equal height but not as soft as the FTX tyre, then I have no doubt it'll surpass 50 with that motor installed. But I think I'll just leave it be as I'm happy with its performance now, just in the throws of changing the body somewhat, and fitting 2.2" alloys at the mo when I get time. 

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Made the rear anti roll bar/sway bar this morning, i have tryed to make it removable by threading the m3 bar and the locktighting it in as far as the thread would go so it acts as a solid bar then winding up tight 2 locknuts to the alu spacer.

Only time will tell if it comes appart durning bashing then i will make a solid one, i just thought i would try the removable method first.28664557c37592a9bccb2dd6cd9b9f00.jpgbeb109705a4fede932c642f3c38d19aa.jpg

 

Sent from my SM-T210 using Tapatalk

 

 

 

 

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Just got backfrom bashing and i can report back that the removable anti roll bar/sway bar thing works likea treat, no torque roll no lifting a wheel of the ground.
All 4 wheels stay firmly planted as they should, have just checked it over and nothing has broken the bar has stayed screwed together no losening at all.
The bluetak locked re diff was awesome i may lock the front as well for better crawling but i just dont know yet, the steel drive shaft turned up 20mins after i got back from bashing so thats now fitted and locktighted in.
I have an idea on strengthening the week rear suspension mount and will report back is it works/looks ok.


Sent from my SM-T210 using Tapatalk

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As this area this a week spot according to what i have read i decided to beef it up before any problems, as you can see i have used a bit of 2mm carbon fibre to spread the load from the small thin area.

Sorry for the pick quality sent from my tab3.

Anyway had to cut to length some m3 stainless bolts that i have and bobs your uncle as it where, lets hope i have no problems when my brushless setup arrives and i putnin some serious bashing.dc87feadd923c6bc679a9d2f453ef165.jpg034dad22ade5f9e3276d67c5863733ce.jpgdf8f401b7201d9e5b48bf6ccebcfbff6.jpg6fe9d242efc67f8a4be130fab1330eff.jpg

 

Sent from my SM-T210 using Tapatalk

 

 

 

 

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Just got backfrom bashing and i can report back that the removable anti roll bar/sway bar thing works likea treat, no torque roll no lifting a wheel of the ground.
All 4 wheels stay firmly planted as they should, have just checked it over and nothing has broken the bar has stayed screwed together no losening at all.
The bluetak locked re diff was awesome i may lock the front as well for better crawling but i just dont know yet, the steel drive shaft turned up 20mins after i got back from bashing so thats now fitted and locktighted in.
I have an idea on strengthening the week rear suspension mount and will report back is it works/looks ok.


Sent from my SM-T210 using Tapatalk


Bluetak? I'm about to fit the official diff locks so v curious. Is this the blue putty for sticking posters up?

Sent from my LG-H850 using Tapatalk

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