Nickarla

2s (2 cell) lipos) are what’s needed for the FTX cars. 3s (3 cell) lipos will give more power but it’s too much for the FTX drivetrain and plastics when you inevitably crash at higher speeds. Mah has nothing to do with power so won’t ‘cook’ anything. It relates to how long the car will keep running For a Carnage/Bugsta you want 2s 5500mah or 6000mah lipos to get the best runs times. BUT, check the dimensions first to see if it will fit into the battery tray. I used the Zippy 2s 6000mah and saw 1 hour run times in my Carnage.

How long has the FTX models been out for and CML still can’t be bothered in making/sourcing/commissioning someone to provide steel diffs. For me if they sorted this one big issue it would be a stinking car.

For around 2 minutes until your car crashes and crumbles before your eyes 😆

No point in going over 2s as it would just reck the drivetrain. The higher the mah the longer run times you’ll get. 6000mah is about as large a mah as you can get to fit the tray. Buy from Hobbyking and make sure you check the dimensions fit first. See above.

In theory. In reality it’s not. That tuff stuff melted the shell.

That looks a neat job. I’ve just bought some Sticks like Turbo for a DIY job but I might try it on a shell...although it might be a bit fast drying.

We’re you using it at full throttle, driving through long grass, up hills etc? If not an overheating motor is usually indicative of something else that causing the overheating, eg dead bearings, drivetrain binding on something etc.

So far so good but any idea whether it stops it cracking?

I agree they're a rip off for what you get but they are not all the same, as per my findings with Tuff stuff.

I used the CML stuff stuff. Whats a waterproofer?

Looks interesting. The price of shoe goo has got silly now. If this toughens shells like shoe goo does then it’s worth changing over to. The problem I have is I put many hours of time and effort into designing and painting shells so don’t want to compromise on its reinforcement/durability.

Interested to see how this holds up compared to shoe goo.

After all that the Flexi tuff stuff is rubbish. It melts the paint. I’m guessing this means that the trade flexi poly would also melt the paint, just as well I didn’t spend that sort of money on something unsuitable. I guess it’s back to shoe goo as they are NOT all the same.

I'm using the cnc ST Pro ones at the moment. I figured if they strip a thread, which they're known to do, I would just invert the screw and use a smal nut threadlocked on. I'm not sure if anyone else has done this but I can't see why this wouldn't be possible.

Thanks, while they might work it’s more the stress and strain on other parts that I’m concerned about...then again, is it much different to using wheels with a 1/2 inch off set built in already?

Hmm, on balance I’m thinking it’s not worth it. Also, the Hong Nor knuckle upgrade is great in theory but at £60 is a bit unrealistic. The problem is that I can’t find any well priced 1/2 inch wheels. I’ve always gone for Absima as they are reasonably priced and pretty good...but even those are beginning to disappear. The Absima website suggests these are only available while stock lasts. https://www.modelsport.co.uk/absima-wheel-set-lp-truggy-street-white-1-8-2-/rc-car-products/438922

I’m wanting to expand my join with of wheels. I’ve just bought some truggy wheels which look great but are 0 offset. As they are going on the Hyper ST I knew I was chancing it and unfortunately they hit against the steering rod and A arms. Firstly does using hex extenders such as this cause issues with additional wear, for example the wheel bearings? Secondly, does anyone know what size hex extenders would be sufficient? It’s almost impossible to know without trial and error which would get very expensive.

That looks great fun James. Thanks for the video.

sorry, I don’t really understand the question. The esc? If the esc is faulty it doesn’t matter how charged the batteries are it will still be faulty. The connectors used aren’t relevant to esc faults.

You only need to solder if the lipos come with different connectors to what the car has. I would always go for the lipos that are right for the car and solder different connectors if needed. The brushed esc is rubbish. It will break sooner or later, if you use lipos it’ll break sooner. Get a HobbyWing 1060. Excellent value for £20. Far tougher and runs more efficiently.

Thanks, yeah, was really easy as it was just red. The black are carbon fibre effect decals. The windows were masked and then sprayed black. The Ferrari decals sourced from Eastern Europe somewhere.

As a rather late update I went with the Proline shell. I’ve since sold it on though. It complemented the FTX chassis really well.

The Ferrari Hyper 7

For context I used a 6000mah Zippy 2s LiPo from Hobbyking on my Brushless Carnage. I saw 1hour run times drop to 50 minutes a year later. I would not wast money on nimh. Get some decent lipos from Hobbyking, Zippy or Turnigy (Modelsport are far too overpriced for lipos), and a decent LiPo charger from Modelsport. Basically this: https://hobbyking.com/en_us/zippy-6000mah-2s2p-35c-hardcase-pack.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=google_gb_shopping&countrycode=GB&gclid=CjwKCAiA-_L9BRBQEiwA-bm5fg-4_8BDhzL8jigzBFwJvzlcrQJJdU3xXkiWlasU9_XJLg6mc7wOURoCFaoQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds And this https://www.modelsport.co.uk/index.php?product_id=425241&gclid=CjwKCAiA-_L9BRBQEiwA-bm5fpvHKkuwpW6f7uuHES5HGU7NLS7FNKwJii-vtackKFLXk2sgWKUrJxoC5xMQAvD_BwE You will need to buy some connectors and learn to solder. Its not hard and the rewards are definitely worth it. Something like these https://hobbyking.com/en_us/genuine-xt60-nylon-connectors-male-female-5-pairs.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=google_gb_shopping&countrycode=GB&gclid=CjwKCAiA-_L9BRBQEiwA-bm5flX99DBJ6INnNO-wIcFZJRou6CUDPWdg_Ezx1h3nIJRt9z4FSRqLyRoC-c8QAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds if you still get low drive times then the issue is with the car.