Nickarla

2s (2 cell) lipos) are what’s needed for the FTX cars. 3s (3 cell) lipos will give more power but it’s too much for the FTX drivetrain and plastics when you inevitably crash at higher speeds. Mah has nothing to do with power so won’t ‘cook’ anything. It relates to how long the car will keep running For a Carnage/Bugsta you want 2s 5500mah or 6000mah lipos to get the best runs times. BUT, check the dimensions first to see if it will fit into the battery tray. I used the Zippy 2s 6000mah and saw 1 hour run times in my Carnage.

How long has the FTX models been out for and CML still can’t be bothered in making/sourcing/commissioning someone to provide steel diffs. For me if they sorted this one big issue it would be a stinking car.

For around 2 minutes until your car crashes and crumbles before your eyes 😆

No point in going over 2s as it would just reck the drivetrain. The higher the mah the longer run times you’ll get. 6000mah is about as large a mah as you can get to fit the tray. Buy from Hobbyking and make sure you check the dimensions fit first. See above.

In theory. In reality it’s not. That tuff stuff melted the shell.

That looks a neat job. I’ve just bought some Sticks like Turbo for a DIY job but I might try it on a shell...although it might be a bit fast drying.

We’re you using it at full throttle, driving through long grass, up hills etc? If not an overheating motor is usually indicative of something else that causing the overheating, eg dead bearings, drivetrain binding on something etc.

So far so good but any idea whether it stops it cracking?

I agree they're a rip off for what you get but they are not all the same, as per my findings with Tuff stuff.

I used the CML stuff stuff. Whats a waterproofer?

Looks interesting. The price of shoe goo has got silly now. If this toughens shells like shoe goo does then it’s worth changing over to. The problem I have is I put many hours of time and effort into designing and painting shells so don’t want to compromise on its reinforcement/durability.

Interested to see how this holds up compared to shoe goo.

After all that the Flexi tuff stuff is rubbish. It melts the paint. I’m guessing this means that the trade flexi poly would also melt the paint, just as well I didn’t spend that sort of money on something unsuitable. I guess it’s back to shoe goo as they are NOT all the same.

I'm using the cnc ST Pro ones at the moment. I figured if they strip a thread, which they're known to do, I would just invert the screw and use a smal nut threadlocked on. I'm not sure if anyone else has done this but I can't see why this wouldn't be possible.

Thanks, while they might work it’s more the stress and strain on other parts that I’m concerned about...then again, is it much different to using wheels with a 1/2 inch off set built in already?