daniel parkinson

@MrPeaski thank you, that was exactly what I was looking for 😄

@HardcoreIf you scroll up a few posts I use part ftx 6332 spur cover then followed @Nickarla and others advice to seal better. The cover is not compatible with the carbon top plate though unless you got creative with cutting up the plastic cover and gluing bits to the carbon plate. Way back in this thread someone did suggest gluing/expoxying carbon rods to the plastic plate to add rigidity. With the aluminium chassis I'm not sure how much benefit the carbon top plate would be (other than bling factor - and there ain't nothing wrong with bling 😁) Nothing seals 100% so it seems to be either seal as best you can or leave totally open (so stones can escape) and use tough/steel pinion and spur.

The brushless version of the Carnage/ Vantage uses a 2950kv motor. From some research the basic principle seems to be upping the kv increases top end speed but reduces torque/acceleration. Again from reading the general range for 1/10 rc seems to between 3000 and 4000kv with the higher kv for road cars and lower for off road/monster trucks. RW racing do 0.6mod pinions down to 9t but no idea if there is enough range in the motor mount to go that low sorry.

I have seen videos of people running 3s and getting Vantages up to over 50mph, but the general consensus seems to be the ESC and/or drive train parts will give out with pretty quickly, particularly with hard acceleration/ braking/ general bashing. By all accounts the stock 2950kv motor in the brushless version is good, but the ESC isn't. You could upgrade the ESC to 60 or 80a to cope better with 3s. You can get steel RW brand pinions and hardened acetal spurs from Modelsport cheaply. There is seller on eBay doing hardened steel spurs as well which have been recommended by others. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/264098795518 (these get produced in small numbers so seem to go relatively quickly). Just make sure the dp or mod is the same for both spur and pinion. The stock models use 0.6 mod. 32dp (same as 0.8 mod) uses fewer but larger teeth compared to 0.6 mod. Apparently this is a bit less efficient but more robust - if you are going 3s you will have loads of extra power so extra robustness is no bad thing! From reading this thread (over about two weeks 😉) some have had issues with the crown gear in the diff stripping. Unfortunately there are no upgrades for this. The crown's are metal, just not high quality steel ☹️. Some have posted about how to harden by cooking at high temps and quenching - it all sounded a bit beyond my DIY skills. If you decide to give 3s a try I'd be keen to know how you get on. I swore I'd stick with 2s when I got the Vantage but that little 😈 on my shoulder is saying "make it go quicker, you know you want to!!!"

I just posted a topic in general electric looking for advice on using the etronix photon sbs 2.1 program card for my FTX Vantage - anyone help would be much appreciated! https://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/forums/topic/243137-etronix-program-card-for-ftx-vantage-help/

Hi, have just bought an etronix photon sbs program card to make some ESC adjustments on my FTX Vantage but am struggling to find any info on setting it up. There is plenty on how to change settings once all connected. Here is the process as I understand it, please correct me if wrong. 1. Connect battery and switch on. 2. Remove lead from ESC into the receiver (channel 2). 3. Plug this lead into the program card. There are two slots on the top of the card (see 1st pic below) - which do I use? Also I assume the red cable is +ve and the black -ve so would plug in as per the 2nd pic below? 4. Cycle through options and set preferences. 5. Turn off ESC and plug lead from ESC back into channel 2 on receiver. 6. Switch back on and all new settings should be saved and good to go 😊

@MrPeaski was just comparing it to what the slipper looks like on my vantage, you may be fine. I found some YouTube videos regarding setting the slipper, but they are all with 2wd buggies. I may remove the centre drive shaft and use the 2wd method unless anyone else has any ideas/advice on how to set?

Hi, @MrPeaski Some nice looking upgrades. Might be worth checking your slipper clutch, it looks to be done up pretty tight. May just be the camera angle though 😉 With the stronger RW pinion and spur it will transfer stress to the diffs. From reading this thread it appears the crown gears on the diffs, whilst metal, are a bit weak. If set correctly the slipper clutch should protect them. Some have suggested sticking with the stock softer spur/pinion and accepting they are a sacrificial part as they are cheaper/easier replace - I guess it depends how often they need replacing!

....and yes, am steering clear of bits like alu suspension arms and chassis parts. It was the suspension pin holders that some have suggested are a worthwhile upgrade over the stock plastic ones. Am trying hard to stick to the "don't upgrade till the stock bit breaks" rule! https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FTX-FTX6362-Carnage-Vantage-Alum-Rear-Susp-Holder-Set-2-/233475645630?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49292

Hi, I probably didn't explain clearly, it's the length of thread on the rear drive axel that seems shorter at the back than the front. https://wheelspinmodels.co.uk/i/115190/?gclid=Cj0KCQjw3Nv3BRC8ARIsAPh8hgInO45iodvAVUF5GmcDnhBNoAET7j78Y3VoDBss7ZpJUclqzQUXenkaAoHoEALw_wcB Is this normal and would replacing the stock set up with rear cvds help, such as these https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FTX-VANTAGE-PRO-REAR-CVA-DRIVESHAFTS-FTX6389-/254621409888?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49292

Hi everyone, Picked up a 2nd hand vantage brushless recently and was looking for some advice from those in the know. The stock tyres seem to wear very quickly on tarmac - any suggestions for a decent road set ( tyre and wheel complete so I can just swap as and when)? Also the axel seems a bit short on the rear wheels meaning there is little for the nylon nut to hold. The front is fine, but that runs cvds. Would upgrading from dog bones to cvds on the rear help? Thanks to advice here, I fitted sway bars and will replace the stock suspension arm holders with alu ones in time. I followed the advice from @Nickarla and also https://www.eurorc.com/page/105/how-to-seal-ftx-carnagebugsta-gear-cover to help stop stones getting into the spur/pinion (thank you!) Are there any other upgrades that are recommended (or should I take the sage advice of run it stock and only upgrade when things actually break 😀) I was actually looking for a Carnage/Bugsta but the Vantage was only £80 including the the stock 2s 3250mah voltz lipo. From the lack scratches/scraps looks like it has had little use - seemed like a good price compared to what others were going for. I had a budget of £150 so was able to get a decent charger (Skyrc t100) and a second lipo 😁 and not break the bank. Apologies if the above questions have been answered, I have searched this thread but it so big now and a lot of the product links no longer work as they are years old.

Hello, Am looking to get my first RC and have narrowed the choice to the Bugsta or the HSP, both brushless. I know neither are high end but am happy to tinker and parts seem relatively cheap and easily available. I won't be doing anything too mad with it, just want something to that will go on grass as well as tarmac, have decent speed (25mph) and be fun! What are people's thoughts 🤔? Thank you 😄

Budget is pretty low, around the £100 mark all in. Terrain is a mix, rough tarmac, small gravel car park, short grass. Would be quite happy with a second hand to start. I like the idea of upgrading over time, so something with potential would be good.

Hello everyone, I'm looking to get back into RCing with a cheap electric buggy or truggy. I did have a couple of RCs years ago, ending up with a nitro hyper 7. Tbh I think that put me off as it was a hassle to maintain. What I'm looking for now is something I can charge a couple batteries and run for 30 mins. Nothing too quick as I don't have much space. Any ideas/advice would be really appreciated. 😁

Hi, I'm looking for some advice on a starter 1/18 to 1/14th cheap buggy/truggy. I had a nitro hyper 7, but that was over 17 years ago! I'm looking for electric as it is easier and quieter. I'm not too bothered about crazy top speed but do want something with decent run time and simple battery management. Would you recommend sticking to li-on or are lipos not too difficult to manage? Is it worth getting a decent charger over the usb style that come with RTR kits? I do like the idea of plentiful spares/upgrades. I was looking at: Wltoys a959 (b version almost looks too fast for the size? Loads of upgrade options) Wltoys 14401 (looks more stable than the a959 and better spec'd) HBX16889 (brushless seems to have pretty good battery life according to YouTube vids) Any suggestions would be really appreciated.