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FTX Outlaw Owners


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The problem I found with the stock tyres is they balloon really badly and do make the Outlaw roll easily. Very grippy off road though. I switched to the Irok clone tyres which don't have the ballooning problem and don't roll as easily.

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4Pcs-Austar-2-2-125mm-1-10-Tires-for-1-10-RC4WD-D90-Axial-RC-Rock-Crawler-/282598387234?hash=item41cc2d2e22:g:trIAAOSwx2VZhHUu

 

          John

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11 minutes ago, westerlycarrot9 said:

LiPo of course. That red LED only flashes when the battery runs out of power so it should be normal.

 

Itll be the low voltage cut off no doubt, when the cells drop below what it's set at, 3V-3.4V or whatever it'll detect the drop & either lose power or cut out, depending on the esc type.

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14 hours ago, ADH66 said:

Only thing I can contribute is to be careful with flight transmitters whose throttle stick won't be spring loaded to return to "off". Maybe car specific types do, but my Spektrum dx8 and ilk don't. So you let go, and the car would keep going. Like a cruise control.

Whereas the wheel types all spring back to throttle off.

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Thanks didn't think of that, definitely an accident waiting to happen ?.

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Finally started to strip the front diff, found a bearing had disintergated.

Started to shim it as per instruction sheet (4 on crown gear side 2 on opposite) and it was really clunky and seemed to skew the crown gear over abit.

Ive had to end up shimming it the opposite way round to get it smoother.

Not sure how its going to run at that but we'll see once its back together and if it starts eating crown gears.

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On 03/02/2017 at 13:09, Isle of Wight Basher said:

 

It was a revelation to me, surprisingly capable all round.

 

Nothing like cruising along the beach in the summer though :D

great machines for all weathers 

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48....48 bloody pages lol, so i got the brushed version yesterday, putting the castle 3800 short course combo in with 17t and 2s. Upgrades needed ...alloy chassis...alloy motor mount...better pinion...metal rear drive shafts and a few spare spurs? thanks

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48....48 bloody pages lol, so i got the brushed version yesterday, putting the castle 3800 short course combo in with 17t and 2s. Upgrades needed ...alloy chassis...alloy motor mount...better pinion...metal rear drive shafts and a few spare spurs? thanks
Sounds good. I'm still on the OE chassis but some jumpers have had theirs break esp where the rear arms join.

You do get a better sealed RX box in the upgraded chassis so it'll happen for me sooner or later.

The rest of your list, yup.

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So last night it was upgrade time.

 

Since I'm going thru spurs every twenty mins major changes were needed.

 

Thanks to John of course for the inspiration and recommendations.

 

In goes ARES Pro 13.5t sensored motor and Quicrun 10BL60 ESC. Still on original motor mount as I, erm, forgot to order the ally one. But that'll be next. Had to shave a little off the top brace for the motor connectors and yes, we lost the hot glue seal plug.

 

Also, a new spur shaft assembly with new bearings, washers, shaft, spur and front cup are for the weekend.

 

While stripping I found that the rear section of the metal drive shaft was unscrewing which must have meant a ton of slop where it wasn't needed.

 

My mate@TerryV34 also showed me how to change shock oil out. The stock oil was already shot, check out the color. In went 60weight and now she's really smooth and supple. The first run will tell if she's too supple, but right now she feels a-mazing. 99fd57be148606035320b8e0e10328b9.jpga96fc1ca0e98b8a37cb9e51ab890984d.jpg5300f54285909ca73487b431d38f3ada.jpg

 

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I'd say 60 is abit over the top for a outlaw bud 

Yeah that's a definite risk. But, with no real knowledge or experience (and my mate's shock oil haha) you gots to start somewhere.

 

Now I know it's a piece of cake, I can redo them if needs be. Truth is, I have a full spare set of shocks still factory fresh, so chances are I'll end up with a firm set and a soft set.

 

Horses for courses.

 

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In general I use from 30wt to 45wt with most RCs. Also spring firmness plays  it's part in selecting shock oil.
 
     John
Yeah I'll try 30wt in the second set of shocks. But I'm curious about the different dynamics the shock oil weight brings, and I'm going to be using it for crawling (hence the motor choice), general mischief and high speed racing.

Hence the two sets of shocks and experimenting.

A full report will be forthcoming from the upcoming crawling adventure.

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Also don't forget that you will probably want different oil wt front and rear.
 
       John
I had thought that.

The geometry of the front v the rear is so radically different it must be inevitable that they need different oils.

Looking forward to finding out!

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5 hours ago, ADH66 said:

Sounds good. I'm still on the OE chassis but some jumpers have had theirs break esp where the rear arms join.

You do get a better sealed RX box in the upgraded chassis so it'll happen for me sooner or later.

The rest of your list, yup.

Sent from my LG-H850 using Tapatalk
 

not used the receiver box, balloon and tie wraps for me

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3 hours ago, ADH66 said:

Yeah I hear that solution a lot. I may do something similar.



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use it on most cars, saves a bit weight and you can relocate the receiver to try make a slight diff to balance, slight but still help, have more faith in the balloon than a receiver box

 

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