mydoddy69 Posted December 9, 2016 Author Share Posted December 9, 2016 These are now on at Modelsport for £399 on special offer for the new Hyper MT sport plus Electric version rtr but blue only !! https://www.modelsport.co.uk/hobao-hyper-mt-sport-plus-electric-monster-truck-rtr-blue/rc-car-products/403960 Thats £160 off retail price !! Sadly CML have the roller at £335 but it makes this a right steal IMO Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bombercountynick Posted December 16, 2016 Share Posted December 16, 2016 Are these worthy of buying over say the outcast/other arrma trucks? A good friend of mine has been out with me a few times and wants a truck he can bash, crash and use on allsorts of terrain. £399 is a lot of monies so I don't want to advise him only for him to be disappointed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mydoddy69 Posted December 16, 2016 Author Share Posted December 16, 2016 23 minutes ago, bombercountynick said: Are these worthy of buying over say the outcast/other arrma trucks? A good friend of mine has been out with me a few times and wants a truck he can bash, crash and use on allsorts of terrain. £399 is a lot of monies so I don't want to advise him only for him to be disappointed Lucky enough I have both this and the outcast I really love the Hyper MT it's a blast to drive plenty of power and mine has been as tough as old boots, it has a few quirks need ironing out but then agian so do the Arrmas, parts support is about the same on both but the edge going to the Hyper IMO This will do what the Outcast can but it's a little harder to pull off and in air control will always go the Outcast way with its centre diff. If I had to have one I'd have the Hyper but it would be a tough call, but then agian mine isn't stock anymore, it's been a loyal friend in my fleet whereas the Outcast is at the minute the new boy so yet to prove itself. The Hyper MT will happily run on 4s and has plenty of power but the Outcast really needs 6s to perform to its best abilities IMO so I'd factor in the cost of lipos to his budget if i was you If he goes the outacst route look on eBay they where there from Germany for £419 plus postage the other day which isn't much more than these Both are fun both are tough and he won't go wrong with either IMO so it just down to what he likes the look of best 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bertberr Posted December 19, 2016 Share Posted December 19, 2016 Just doing some digging on the MT Plus and came across a vid from our antipodean friend... it was one of those workshop / mod vids, and he ending up replacing half the truck, not sure how much of it was absolutely necessary as I only scanned through it, but it was a lot of bits...! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mydoddy69 Posted December 19, 2016 Author Share Posted December 19, 2016 3 hours ago, bertberr said: Just doing some digging on the MT Plus and came across a vid from our antipodean friend... it was one of those workshop / mod vids, and he ending up replacing half the truck, not sure how much of it was absolutely necessary as I only scanned through it, but it was a lot of bits...! Lol yep I saw it and from what he replaced I'm not sure all is needed I would do the brace, wheelie bar and slipper unit I have the cvds myself but the old ones are not a massive issue the new ones do require the cups to be replaced when swapping over to the new cvds though .. total cost should be around £50 and then it will be pretty bulletproof for most, so it sounds a lot but its not really. Unless you want those cvds then it goes up quite a bit The Outcast I'm still toying with but there are a few areas I'd like too improve mainly on the chassis bracing and servo mount but that's not a cheap fix either so I'll scratch my head a little longer and see what I can come up with on the cheap Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
capri-boy Posted December 20, 2016 Share Posted December 20, 2016 On 12/16/2016 at 19:47, bombercountynick said: Are these worthy of buying over say the outcast/other arrma trucks? A good friend of mine has been out with me a few times and wants a truck he can bash, crash and use on allsorts of terrain. £399 is a lot of monies so I don't want to advise him only for him to be disappointed Tell him to buy one, I love mine, and as Doddy mentions they only need a few bits to be pretty bomb proof. Mine is currently laid up still, as with everything thats happening at home i've not got round to sorting the new cvd's and cups yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GazCle Posted December 21, 2016 Share Posted December 21, 2016 On 01/06/2016 at 21:55, mydoddy69 said: Any of you guys want a better turning radius well follow this the stock radius is about 8ft this little mod makes it half that Start buy removing the Rx/servo box, I use a rubber band to hold it out the way now remove the steering plate and unscrew the steering links Now to make life easy I have put a brass bar in so you can see what it is we are going to change this needs removing, just unscrew the 2 steering link screws and lift out the complete system. There are 2 silver collets with 1.5 mm grub screws your need to undo and then remove the bar (yours will be silver) . Now this is where it gets tricky your need a bit of 3mm rod not hollow as it needs some strength I had a bit if s/steel sitting around and went with that.. You need to make a new bar slightly bigger than the one you removed. I used a vise and hammer and a ring spanner to bend the bar. You need it to be 44mm from inner bar to inner bar like this Now depending on what links and rod ends your using you may need to file some of the diff housing. I used a dremel to remove about 2mm , don't go mad tho as you end up wrecking the housing you just want enough so the steering arm can touch the diff housing when on full lock Now just put it all back together the steering will be out of line so it will look like this just adjust your links and servo arm etc to your liking and job done Bit of a faff but well worth the effort !! Has to be the best mod to date really happy with this one I've just done this mod to mine I only went with an extra 2mm (43mm) to save having to dremel the diff case, just waiting on a servo to drop through the letterbox so I can set it up Cheers for the info Geeza ``o=o¬ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mydoddy69 Posted December 22, 2016 Author Share Posted December 22, 2016 26 minutes ago, GazCle said: I've just done this mod to mine I only went with an extra 2mm (43mm) to save having to dremel the diff case, just waiting on a servo to drop through the letterbox so I can set it up Cheers for the info Geeza ``o=o¬ Welcome to the forum Your more than welcome fella it's always nice to share even better when guys appreciate it so thanks to you too 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
330D Posted December 28, 2016 Share Posted December 28, 2016 Hi folks, Which 2S lipos are you using with this truck? I was looking at turnigy/zippy's around 6000mah 30c. would these be enough around for 20 mins+ of light bashing?, im wondering wether 30c will be enough as im going up 1 tooth on the pinion, other than that it will be stock on 4S. ( i know from my helis the C rating on most of these can be hit or miss) Other than re-thread locking everything, would you recommend doing anything else before running?, diff oil etc? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
capri-boy Posted December 28, 2016 Share Posted December 28, 2016 1 hour ago, 330D said: Hi folks, Which 2S lipos are you using with this truck? I was looking at turnigy/zippy's around 6000mah 30c. would these be enough around for 20 mins+ of light bashing?, im wondering wether 30c will be enough as im going up 1 tooth on the pinion, other than that it will be stock on 4S. ( i know from my helis the C rating on most of these can be hit or miss) Other than re-thread locking everything, would you recommend doing anything else before running?, diff oil etc? Diffs are fine on factory grease to be honest, you could oil them when you strip for maintenance if you wanted (or regrease). Go easy on the threadlock on the output cups of the diffs, as they 'bed in' with use and can be a pig to get out (though will happily fall out stock when new). 6000mah should give you that sort of runtime, though personally found 4S on the stock set up a little tame, so i'd be driving WOT a lot more, impacting run times - never tried up one tooth with the stock set up, but would imagine it'll be a bit quicker. 30c at 6000mah is 180a draw, so should be fine, of course higher is always better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
capri-boy Posted December 28, 2016 Share Posted December 28, 2016 Double post annoyance, but i've spotted a pair of nitro's for sale new, non PLUS models, for £310 - that's brand new retail not someone's man cave. Still a tad pricey I think, but a good saving over the MT Plus. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mydoddy69 Posted December 28, 2016 Author Share Posted December 28, 2016 1 hour ago, 330D said: Hi folks, Which 2S lipos are you using with this truck? I was looking at turnigy/zippy's around 6000mah 30c. would these be enough around for 20 mins+ of light bashing?, im wondering wether 30c will be enough as im going up 1 tooth on the pinion, other than that it will be stock on 4S. ( i know from my helis the C rating on most of these can be hit or miss) Other than re-thread locking everything, would you recommend doing anything else before running?, diff oil etc? Make sure your wires are well strapped out the way of the spur and pinion ! Other than that go have some fun Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
330D Posted December 28, 2016 Share Posted December 28, 2016 3 hours ago, capri-boy said: Diffs are fine on factory grease to be honest, you could oil them when you strip for maintenance if you wanted (or regrease). Go easy on the threadlock on the output cups of the diffs, as they 'bed in' with use and can be a pig to get out (though will happily fall out stock when new). 6000mah should give you that sort of runtime, though personally found 4S on the stock set up a little tame, so i'd be driving WOT a lot more, impacting run times - never tried up one tooth with the stock set up, but would imagine it'll be a bit quicker. 30c at 6000mah is 180a draw, so should be fine, of course higher is always better. Thanks for the info guys. I had looked into the 6s option but do these trucks really hold up on 6s without falling apart? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
capri-boy Posted December 28, 2016 Share Posted December 28, 2016 Just now, 330D said: Thanks for the info guys. I had looked into the 6s option but do these trucks really hold up on 6s without falling apart? I found 6s and 2000kv a little too aggressive, but from what I see no one is having drivetrain issues from doing so (other than the stock spur). On my truggy's using the same 2000kv set up 5S is the sweet spot for me, alas i've not managed to find good matching 2S and 3S packs affordably to try in the MTe to try it there (truggy uses 5s bricks). Rich has run his a lot more than me so may have a different perspective. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mydoddy69 Posted December 28, 2016 Author Share Posted December 28, 2016 Yep I run mine on 5s with a 2s and 3s tried 6s it's bonkers lol but that said you can gear it way down, on 5s I run a 18-20t pinion on 4s 20-22t but if you have 6s you can go 16t and as lol as 14t so there's a ton of options .. So does it hold up well to 6s well if you add the brace and the slipper unit then the answer is yes but even on 4s the stock spur isn't great out the box so I'd look at that as a first upgrade and maybe and the brace .. if you want you can get just the cnc spur which is fine and a little cheaper but just as strong but obviously your loose the slipper action if you go that route. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
330D Posted December 29, 2016 Share Posted December 29, 2016 18 hours ago, mydoddy69 said: Yep I run mine on 5s with a 2s and 3s tried 6s it's bonkers lol but that said you can gear it way down, on 5s I run a 18-20t pinion on 4s 20-22t but if you have 6s you can go 16t and as lol as 14t so there's a ton of options .. So does it hold up well to 6s well if you add the brace and the slipper unit then the answer is yes but even on 4s the stock spur isn't great out the box so I'd look at that as a first upgrade and maybe and the brace .. if you want you can get just the cnc spur which is fine and a little cheaper but just as strong but obviously your loose the slipper action if you go that route. 5S sounds like a good option guys. I had looked at a 5s arrma kraton before this but parts on the v2 are still limited. Its a shame more manufacturers dont go with the single lipo design on 1/8th trucks. Which 2s/3s lipos do you run? 18 hours ago, mydoddy69 said: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mydoddy69 Posted December 29, 2016 Author Share Posted December 29, 2016 25 minutes ago, 330D said: 5S sounds like a good option guys. I had looked at a 5s arrma kraton before this but parts on the v2 are still limited. Its a shame more manufacturers dont go with the single lipo design on 1/8th trucks. Which 2s/3s lipos do you run? https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-nano-tech-5000mah-2s-45-90c-lipo-pack.html https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-nano-tech-5000mah-3s-45-90c-lipo-pack.html Although they where a fair but cheaper when I ordered them Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dazp1976 Posted December 29, 2016 Share Posted December 29, 2016 3 hours ago, mydoddy69 said: https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-nano-tech-5000mah-2s-45-90c-lipo-pack.html https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-nano-tech-5000mah-3s-45-90c-lipo-pack.html Although they where a fair but cheaper when I ordered them I'd prob go with the Zippy 5800 atm: https://hobbyking.com/en_us/zippy-flightmax-5800mah-2s1p-30c.html https://hobbyking.com/en_us/zippy-flightmax-5800mah-3s1p-30c.html I'd just stop a fraction early so it don't drain them too low. Never had a flightmax fail stopping at a resting volt of 3.7v/cell. Still they're 174A constant output so should be sweet Me I'd go all out 6s and drop a lower kv in it ie: 1700-1800kv 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
capri-boy Posted December 30, 2016 Share Posted December 30, 2016 6S and 1600kv 4082 in mine. I've still not found the sweet spot pinion wise though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dazp1976 Posted December 30, 2016 Share Posted December 30, 2016 19 minutes ago, capri-boy said: 6S and 1600kv 4082 in mine. I've still not found the sweet spot pinion wise though. Bet you wheelieeeeeeeeeeeeeee all over the place don't ya? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
capri-boy Posted December 30, 2016 Share Posted December 30, 2016 3 hours ago, dazp1976 said: Bet you wheelieeeeeeeeeeeeeee all over the place don't ya? I would had anyone got the upgraded CVD's and cups in stock It's an MT - torque is king. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dazp1976 Posted January 7, 2017 Share Posted January 7, 2017 Are the dogbone pins etc replaceable on these? I've got a tool but turned out the HPI isn't doable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cookie666uk Posted January 7, 2017 Share Posted January 7, 2017 I had no issues replacing the pins on my hyper buggy so I dont see why these would be any different fella Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mydoddy69 Posted January 7, 2017 Author Share Posted January 7, 2017 17 minutes ago, dazp1976 said: Are the dogbone pins etc replaceable on these? I've got a tool but turned out the HPI isn't doable. Yeah i replaced all mine the stock ones have a habit of working loose. wether there actually meant to be replaced i have no idea though .. The pins on the upgraded cvds are much better and don't need replacing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dazp1976 Posted January 7, 2017 Share Posted January 7, 2017 45 minutes ago, mydoddy69 said: Yeah i replaced all mine the stock ones have a habit of working loose. wether there actually meant to be replaced i have no idea though .. The pins on the upgraded cvds are much better and don't need replacing Cool. Just waiting on a bit more £ and may bite the bullet. I'll prob try the pins with something softer which will save the cups and save £'s Cheapskate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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