dazp1976

I have the GPM alloy holders on mine. Also have the hinge pins off the D812. I don't think I've ran mine for about 4 years now though!.

I also had this happen. But.... Nothing to do with the cold. It was ran too hard on the previous use. Yes they do say that cold is not good for them but mainly if temps are in the minus figures. I wouldn't store them outside in winter myself. Mine are lipo bagged inside buscuit tins in a cupboard.

Unless you are permanently running on a grass field. I generally have to drop about 5 teeth on the pinny if I come off the black stuff onto the grass.

Worth keeping an eye on: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/165145111174?hash=item26736a6a86:g:1jMAAOSwav1hdBZh I usually get mine off ebay. Either new or new unopened. Never had trouble with use however if withing last 4-6 years dated. WD all the way. Black or purple. I've a 2015 6tb purple in a media player. On nearly 24/7. (reds tend to be 5400) great for storing media though.

I charge loads at a time. If I don't use them within 24hrs I discharge them again to 50% and store. They've lasted well. If you run them hard when low so they drop below 3.2v they will bite you.

WD40 dries the bearings out. Also it attracts dust/dirt. Use GT85 on metal parts all the way. Also doesn't attract dust/dirt. Silicone on plastics only. These are from experience with industrial automated machinery.

Don't waste your money on that p.o.s. It only handles 50w per channel on AC power input, it's MISLEADING!. If you try to charge at 1C it will max out at 4.5A on those batteries and will likely last you a few weeks if that. Ohms law suggests you want 55.5w each for those batteries + 10% for efficiency losses. Buy this instead: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/363400477739?epid=7038996278&hash=item549c5b3c2b:g:Vr0AAOSw5NVgu58k Does 130w per channel on both AC & DC. Capable of charging up to 4 of thosse 3s lipo's at once if needed!.

What's the point of this charger? It is MISLEADING!. Can only charge at 50w per channel on AC mains. Will only just about handle those batteries at 1C. You can get an Imax B6AC 50w for <£25. (£50 for 2). Overlander only does 100w pc with a seperate psu unit. Expensive for what it is afaic!!!.

Fitted your last?. Why?. Do you keep breaking them?. If you have a broken one (or any other metal bits) that's measurable / copyable. I might take a look at it. A couple of months and my new cnc project should be finished, or close to it. Been out of rc (and most things) for a long while lately (medical).

That's a new one on me for the fronts! Normally only the rears. Is it used or new? If used then it may have different ones in off another buggy. Try limiting your suspension travel using the grub screws in the arms so they don't lower too far down (droop) I'd suggest trying the vorza cvd's if all else fails. They are 92mm length. The trophy are 91mm. I'll see if I still have both around and look at the lengths. You can get just the shafts for those Vorza ones too BUT the axles are smaller so have to buy the entire units first off as you can't mix/match the 2 joints.

Yep the difference is huge. I've found a complete set. Not that cheap anymore but I'd say it's worth it for the difference and the lifespan: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Brake-Complete-for-Hb-Hot-Bodies-D817-D819-204322-114759-C8029-C8059-86077/372843869617?hash=item56cf39f5b1:g:0XQAAOSweS5dz99t

If you get anymore grief once it's 'fixed' change to the 3 shoe from HB racing. They're great. 3 shoe Clutch system: #67525 - Flywheel (3pins/Black) #101199 - RACING CLUTCH SHOES (3PCS) #101201 - RACING CLUTCH SPRINGS (3PCS) #HBC8059 - FLYWHEEL NUT (LIGHTNING SERIES) #B121 or #B021 (or similar) Ball bearing 5x10x4mm Or optional 3 shoe springs #67220 - Clutch Springs (1.1mm/3pcs) for later clutch release at higher rpm. Optional alloy 3 shoes #101778 - ALUM. RACING CLUTCH SHOES GUNMETAL (3PCS) If you then need instructions on how to fit them go here: https://hbracing.com/en/downloads-en/ Scroll down to the D8T 1/8 Nitro Off-Road 4WD Truggy instruction manual It should be on page 36.

I sold my main used Flux one and kept the one that was/is still being rebuilt. Haven't used it for around 2 years at least. Been busy messing with a new cnc mill conversion. I must check my Lipo's and hope they aren't knackered from being in storage for so long! 😟

In my opinion: I'd leave it as is myself. MT's have reduction gearboxes for a reason. Burned several motors when I went to a cd on a MGT. I'd just figure out which is best to elongate, chassis or mount so it slides a little and nut/bolt it down when in position.

Aren't you over thinking it? Don't you just divide the ring by the pinion in a drive diff & the spur by the pinion, Then multiply? Say you used a 15T pinion don't you just go: 29/9= 3.22222:1 46/15= 3.0667:1 Then times the 2 together giving a final drive of: 9.881:1 Bit quick for a MT like that I feel. I burned a couple of motors in the past on a MGT with a CD conversion. Why do you think they come with reduction gear boxes.

The Voltage Hobbies one looks a little complicated for me to do. I could've had a go though if I had the broke bits.

There was one I had (metal to metal s&p) where the spur was damaging. Turned out the pinion was at fault. Teeth were really sharp and digging in on the spur wrecking it.

Would take at least 2 hrs 30 mins for a 5000mah 6s lipo though on a B6. But yes the xbox mod works well. Best one to use is the 203w version or higher hooked up to 2 of the 80w Turnigy chargers. Still borderline for 1C on higher capacity 4s and too under par for 6s. For those you want at least the 150w Turnigy Need some confidence to hack the brick, relatively simple but some are not keen to do it.

I wish they'd put it back how it was about 2 years ago. The new changes made since back then have done it no favors. But I'm one of these that don't like change

Ah different charger to the one I saw earlier then. I've only seen the expensive power supplies give out up to 18v. You can put a few chargers on that supply. Basically with the 12v 50A 600w unit You could borderline have 4 chargers doing a 6s each. (22.2*20A= 444w+10%= 485w 22A. I would stick with up to a maximum of 3 though, the more chargers the more the efficiency loss. But that's based on 6s which is 18 cells (3 lipo's). Could comfortably do 5*4s batteries (20 cells) on 2-3 chargers with that supply. Should last you well

This is in my opinion and from personal experience. They're all copies of each other these days. My Turnigy 1000w is exactly the same as the Skyrc and the Hyperion equivalent. Cost me £50 new and is 4 years old now. The Hyperion is £150, big difference. I think my good life span is down to only using 50% of it's capacity. It's when you run them flat out you get problems. I have an expensive Chargery S1500 power supply to run it because back then I didn't know about the ebay ones. I would have no worries about using one of those 24v 1000w ebay jobs for power as I have 2* 36v 350w units running the small cnc mill. Best advice from me if you're looking at the cheaper alternatives/copies would be: 1. Work out what your batteries would require using the ohms law formula to charge at 1C. 2. Double the figure you got from it. 3. Look for a charger capable of that figure. 4. If it needs a separate psu then go at least 20% bigger than the charger. For example using 6s 1. A single 6s 5000mah needs (22.2v*5A=111+10%= 122.1w @ 5.5A 2. *2 gives you 244w 11A. 3. Look for at least 250w 11A 4. +20% = 300w 13A+ psu To parallel 2 of them double it again to #3. 500w 22A & #4. 600w 26A. Using 4s 1. 14.8v*5A=74w 5A+10%= 81.4w 5.5A 2. *2 gives you 163w 11A 3. Look for one at least the above figure (a 150w will do in this case) 4. +20% = 196w 13A Double again to parallel 2 of them. The Amp outputs are a rough guide because at those wattage's equipment has generally higher Amperage outputs anyway. As long as you don't go lower than the figures suggested. You'll be running at 50% and will last well. One other thing is chargers have mostly popped caps etc on discharge. Best to use max 75% of it's potential, discharge in the vehicle or make a halogen light box with a lipo alarm fitted.

It's mental!!!! If I ever got rid of most of my stuff the charge gear is still staying just in case. Would cost me about £400 for the same gear now. I paid about £260. It's now 4 years old.

Is that the 500w 25A jobbie? Should do the business. Have you checked the AR1's input voltage? Is it one that can take up to 32v? If it's anything like my Turnigy, if you use a 12v supply the charger limits itself to only having half it's full power available. It'll still do the job on a 6s lipo or 2 though

As far as I'm aware it has a 500w AC psu built in to it the same as the prophet. It should be able to manage no problem with one that size in it. In normal practice you get a 10% efficiency loss while charging so one would assume the extra 100w built in is to cover that loss. Downside is that one has an EU plug