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Axial Yeti owners thread


philbr

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Yes enamel will work and is what i've used. Bear two things in mind though:

 

1. Ensure you scuff up the areas you want to paint first or it wont take hold. Use a brillo, dish washing scour pad.

 

2. Appreciate that if the lexan flexes sufficiently the enamel will flake off. It's best to use a type of paint called Polycarbonate (as you likely already know) as it retains its flexibility. But it generally comes in spray form rather than in little pots.  If you don't find some in pots, then let me know as i'd like to have some.

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Aye I've seen that particular build thread with Rat Boy, as I call him.

 

Take it from me though, no matter what you do with the Yeti you'll never make it a competent crawler - it's just not what it's designed for.

 

Don't get me wrong, you can still have fun following the Wraiths up and down the technical challenges, but you'll never do it with the same grace or control as them. It tends to be a rather crass (but gloriously impressive) display of power as you bang on full throttle to raz it up and over.

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I ended up with gpm ones from asiatees came as a set of 5, 1x servo link 2x stearing arms 2x top links. Good quality I've not managed to bend or damage them yet!http://www.asiatees.com/display?Axial-Yeti-Parts-Hop-Ups-Upgrades&brand=Axial&model=Yeti&id=102115&pid=1

Thanks Shaun, that's definitely a option I reckon :good:

Cheers mate

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Personally I wouldn't fit the alloy a arm's as they have a habbit of bending, unlike plastic which will absorb some impact and spring back into shape. If I was to upgrade I'd fit plastic RPM's ;)

Edited by J.A.Son
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Personally I wouldn't fit the alloy a arm's as they have a habbit of bending, unlike plastic which will absorb some impact and spring back into shape. If I was to upgrade I'd fit plastic RPM's ;)

 

I can't help agree with that one - something I'll not add onto my yeti. I like how those and the hinge screws are cheap insurance essentially.

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Got a question for those experience with Yeti's - I'm deciding what to do when I get one, I'm very tempted by the Trophy Truck conversion with the Twin Hammers trailing arms, however it will need an open rear diff. I gather the stock yeti is a locked rear diff. Is there a good aftermarket Yeti axle housing that allows for an open diff? I read that you can convert the stock one to open but it's not sealed and will leak.

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That's a good link. I actually hadn't thought about the fact you can't install output shafts whilst assembling the diff! After read that thread it seems some thick grease should do the trick. The good thing is it's quick and easy to get to the rear diff to top up occasionally.

Also it seems that the hpi spiders etc are compatible, but from a quick side by side comparison that's about it, as the driver cups on the Yeti are bigger.

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Thanks. Saw a few links and videos of guys doing this. Can this conversion be done on any of the Vanquish or SSD axles? Wondering if the losi diff grease might be a better alternative to diff oil dribbling out.

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Mond, using grease sounds like a reasonable idea to me. Although, something like 500,000 wt diff oil doesn't exactly dribble ;)

Imo, grease will probably last a little longer, but give a more open diff action, where as 500k oil more of a locked diff but may leak easier?

Either way it's not a huge job accessing the rear diff to top-up. It could possibly be done without actually opening the diff case through the output shaft holes?

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  • 2 weeks later...

Another question as I price things up - I have a Castle Mamba Max Pro SCT edition and a Castle 2400kv 1415 which I could use to put in this and run it on 3S. I have a feeling the motor would be complete overkill. Thoughts? Possible get a higher KV sensored motor, since the ESC can do that?

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  • 2 weeks later...

Yeah I had that issue of clicking after fitting the rpm arms, alloy hubs and knuckles, if you take out the little rubber shim from the diff output and then try it.

Might mean you need to adjust camber or find a thinner rubber shim :good:

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Yeah I had that issue of clicking after fitting the rpm arms, alloy hubs and knuckles, if you take out the little rubber shim from the diff output and then try it.

Might mean you need to adjust camber or find a thinner rubber shim :good:

Thanks Gaz, I didn't notice there was an I ring in the outdrives :o

Tbh, the camber isn't right yet, so that could be it, as it's only the one side. So I'll try that first, then the doughnut ;)

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Did Robb Haze ever post up his Yeti? I looked for about the first 15 pages then ended up skipping to the end :lol:

Be interesting to see a Yeti that's too fast...

 

Haha did he fuxk as like! I actually saw it on Scaler when he sold it - it was basic, so I'm not sure what planet he was on when making the above statement.

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