J.A.Son

Great thanks. Some tasty stuff there! What's shipping on a >£30 spend?

That's a nice addition 😎. Like the boots too, where did you get both diff cover and shaft boots?

Are you running stock suspension- in particular rigid top links? Moving to adjustable links (turnbuckles) allows you to adjust camber. Tbh never had this issue, but I've always run adjustable, so may or may help. Either way, the ability to adjust camber is worth the upgrade, for not much cost.

What 3s Lipo packs are you guys using for your yeti's? I could do with an extra pack, and although I'm really pleased with the Gens Ace I use they're not longer an option Been looking at the Turnigy Nanotecs 5000mAh 45-90c £40 from HK. They claim length to be 150mm, which is the maximum for the yeti, so should be ok. However, I've read they actually come up bigger- More like 158mm?!! Any advice or pointers greatly appreciated J

Hi mate, yes no problem. Sorry I've been away few days! PM me your details etc.

I'll be eager to see your thoughts on the SSD if you do get one. It could tempt me, even though I don't need it- this RC park creates an incredibly powerful urge to spend money, sometimes completely out of the blue!

If I were to go ally rear axle the SSD one is the one I'd go for, scale looks wise I think it's the best out there!. The SSD stuff I've had has always been top quality/excellent finish and beefy! RCMart have them for $110 + $10 postage, so around £82, with no threat of duty and usually 1wk delivery! An absolute steal imo! http://www.rcmart.com/ssd00052-wide-diamond-centered-yeti-black-p-63061.html The only niggle is the squared front facing bottom edge on the pumpkin, which could possibly snag whilst crawling. However, they've addressed this with a cool looking bolt on diff cover, which works beautifully by all accounts and helps protect the pumpkin, so worth having either way!

I have to agree with Shaun, I've had no issues with the AR60/BT's/alloy lockout combo using Axial HD drive-shafts. In which way have they 'sheared' Mike?

Proline Faultline 2.2 beadlocks #PL2758-15. Brand new in unopened pack. Only ONE PAIR available, £15 posted

Hi Shaun, do you think the replacement is going to be any better? Iirc the axial HD pinion isn't compatible either? You going back to AR60 I take it? I must say that mine's been solid with beef tubes and gpm alloy bearing/end caps.

Hello mate, iirc they're 2.2 aren't they? So yes, that would be great. Any idea of postage cost?

Anyone?

Bump

Looking for anything I can use as a spare on the back of my yeti. Damaged, worn, anything tbh as its only for effect. I have 2.2 wheel so only a tyre required. Thanks, J

Hello mate, lol that mesh is WAY too loose! The best way to get it right (it's quite easy tbh) is to place motor with circular face/mount plate securely attached, into the bottom half of the mount, which is obviously attached to chassis. Place top half of mount on and tighten down until you can just about rotate motor can within the mount. It should line up perfectly, as the face plate and mount clamps are keyed together. Helps if you start off with about the same gap you have in those pics, maybe a tad more. Then either insert a strip of min 90gsm weight paper (as per manual) between pinion and spur and rotate motor (clockwise when looking from pinon end iirc) to tighten the mesh until you can just about rotate the spur- it'll feel tight, but that's what you're looking for. Now tighten down clamps screws securely, BUT NOT TOO TIGHT!- just pinch them tight. Remove paper and you should have a perfect mesh. Alternatively, just tighten without paper until you just get a little wiggle room (and small click click) when you gently rock the spur back and forth with a finger. There's loads of YT vids showing exactly the wiggle you need. Remember though, do the fine adjustment with the motor mount/clamp tightened JUST enough to allow the motor to rotate. This helps prevent the mesh changing as you fully tighten down. Final point/tip: I personally don't use much if any thread lock on mount screws as the tend to seize into the alloy. And certainly don't get any on the mating surfaces of the top and bottom halves of the mount- that messes up to clamping process! Good luck

Ah, great! Their website says 'supplier stock' which I took to be on order or something!?

Those PL beadlocks are very good by all accounts. Trying to get a set without being held to ransom on price however is impossible. They've been 'on order' everywhere for about 6mths! Let me know if you find any, I would like a set myself, but gave up looking

Did you get this sorted? If not, I assume you've checked everything for tightness and any breakages?

What's it like actually on the ground, ie under load at low speed? With wheels off the ground there's very little load and you'll be using unrealistically small amounts of throttle input, which will exacerbate cogging. You could try backing off the timing to see if that helps? I've done this in the past to help motor over heating issues. You theoretically loose top end power/speed, but I didn't notice tbh, then it was only a step or two lower than default. Have a play with programming, one parameter and 1-2 steps at a time, you can always reset to default if you get lost..

Check the gear mesh- pinion/spur isn't too tight too! The stock spur is pants tbh, never runs true. With the centre f&r (centre) drive shafts disconnected and the motor disconnected from esc does the spur-pinion-transmission run smoothly and free?

What motor is that? Brushless unsensored motors are prone to this at slow speed, it's know as 'cogging'. Lower gearing will help a little, but the fact is a BL unsensored motor isn't realy suited to slow crawling!

We are still talking about an RC I take it?

How big are your lipo packs- maybe you could use two in parallel with an appropriate adapter lead- ie same (3s) voltage but double the amps/capacity? As already said, bear in mind that the Yeti isn't brilliant at any one thing. Imo, it's an ok basher and half decent crawler/scrabbler. Be prepared to need to upgrade (esp the rtr) things almost from the start. My advice is this, if you already own or have owned several different rc's and you're looking for something a bit different then go for it, as it is unusual in many ways. Also think about where you're going to run. Grass/hard surfaces ain't't that enjoyable, its much happier on loose semi-heavy rough terrain. I love mine, but it took a while and some £££ to find that love!

Just found this, BARGAIN http://m.ebay.com/itm/HPI-1-10-Bullet-MT-ST-FLUX-MMH-4000kV-BRUSHLESS-MOTOR-4-Pole-Lead-EMH-3S-esc-/371145995389?nav=SEARCH Should work out less than £40 shipped! Dollar are usually very good/reliable btw

I've not seen a rebuild kit specifically for the flux 4000kv and now that castle have discontinued their rebuild kits you can no longer slap a 5mm 1210 rebuild shaft in there Best bet is a complete new motor from a US breaker, around £45-£50 delivered. I have one on the shelf, just in case, cost £38 from dollar hobbies- albeit nearly 2 years ago. Fortunately I've not needed it- yet! What with hpi doing cvd's it's great to see (finally!) more after market support for the wr8 Not sure about bolt-on front kick up though :/