shaunm Posted August 22, 2015 Share Posted August 22, 2015 http://www.asiatees.com/article?Boom-Racing-Bevel-Helical-Gear-For-ALL-Axial-Cars&id=2168 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J.A.Son Posted August 22, 2015 Share Posted August 22, 2015 Does the axial steel spur come with replacement slipper pads? I doubt it, so does that mean you need to also order them, as I take it you can't reuse the ones on the plastic spur!? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zombi Posted August 22, 2015 Share Posted August 22, 2015 No they don't. But you can use a hair dryer to remove the one on the stock spur. Just do it carefully. Also, I'd not bother with the axial offering - spend a touch more and get the Robinson kit as I did. I used the axial one and wasn't impressed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thatRCguy Posted August 22, 2015 Share Posted August 22, 2015 No they don't. But you can use a hair dryer to remove the one on the stock spur. Just do it carefully. Also, I'd not bother with the axial offering - spend a touch more and get the Robinson kit as I did. I used the axial one and wasn't impressed. Wait, do the slipper pads have a peely off bit? Or am i missing something? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zombi Posted August 22, 2015 Share Posted August 22, 2015 The pads have sticky backs yes, so they can attach to the spur. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J.A.Son Posted August 22, 2015 Share Posted August 22, 2015 Also, I'd not bother with the axial offering - spend a touch more and get the Robinson kit as I did. I used the axial one and wasn't impressed. You referring to the spur I take it? What didn't you like about the axial one? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zombi Posted August 22, 2015 Share Posted August 22, 2015 It wobbled. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J.A.Son Posted August 22, 2015 Share Posted August 22, 2015 Really! I thought that was just an issue with the plastic oe spur! Not good QC!! I've already ordered one now, but if its not true it'll be going back! What is it with Axial and wobble? You'd have thought with a name like Axial that certainly wouldn't be an issue If they truly want to do well in the 'speed' market they need to address these off balance issues!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zombi Posted August 22, 2015 Share Posted August 22, 2015 Aye, I sold mine as soon as the Robinson one came out. I think I talked at length about the wobble in my build thread somewhere or other. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
supersavage Posted September 10, 2015 Share Posted September 10, 2015 Went to the park earlier with the yeti I have no idea how mine is in one piece as the bottom of front skid plate tried to bed it's self in the face of a slope which resulted in a spectacular accident. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J.A.Son Posted September 10, 2015 Share Posted September 10, 2015 Generally they are very resistant to accident damage. They do however seem prone to unexplainable damage, bent drive shafts etc. I've somehow ended up with a wobbly rear (buckled) wheel whilst crawling up and down the kerb at around 2mph?! I'm thinking of possibly trying strc pressed steel alternatives... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gaz! Posted September 10, 2015 Share Posted September 10, 2015 Do the threads still feel strong and tight in the axles where the lockouts mount to? That can be somewhat problematic on axials, had it a few times on 2nd hand trucks, now all I use is beef toons, it gives a metal threaded clamp for the rear lockout over a few mm of plastic..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shaunm Posted September 10, 2015 Share Posted September 10, 2015 I'm thinking the next upgrade for me will be a rear axle in ally from asiatees, always been a bit concerned about the fixings on the lockouts being plastic and as I do have a tendancy to strip out plastic threads I'm thinking it may be a good option! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J.A.Son Posted September 10, 2015 Share Posted September 10, 2015 Do the threads still feel strong and tight in the axles where the lockouts mount to? That can be somewhat problematic on axials, had it a few times on 2nd hand trucks, now all I use is beef toons, it gives a metal threaded clamp for the rear lockout over a few mm of plastic..... Yes, they do, but as yourself and Shaun say, it's a bit of a weakness to say the least! I had been fancying the SSD diamond head axle, being one piece and not requiring lockouts nor wider rear hubs, as well as centred. However, it seems to have a major design fault, in that the front face of the pumpkin is squared off and a huge snagging point on the rocks etc. It could possibly be dremelled off, but I couldn't spend that kind of money only to have a hack at it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gaz! Posted September 10, 2015 Share Posted September 10, 2015 Not cost a load to make that axle bombproof, all these fancy axles are just for aesthetics anyway....... Some of banners beef tubes, lockouts and all link mounts from Asia tees and there you go, only real bling I have is a ballistic fabrications diff cover not that it's needed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J.A.Son Posted September 10, 2015 Share Posted September 10, 2015 My only real concerns with the beef tubes I've seen is that they're not concentric to the axle?! Surly that creates huge amounts of vibration, and on the yeti running 3s at speed..!! Maybe I'm wrong or been looking at the wrong thing? They would be my choice if only for the above.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J.A.Son Posted September 10, 2015 Share Posted September 10, 2015 My bad, as they say! After looking properly at a few YT clips, the Beef tubes don't actually rotate with the drive shaft, doh! I'd have sworn the ones I've seen before grub screwed to the drive shafts?! Hence my concern, lol. How much are they banners? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zombi Posted September 10, 2015 Share Posted September 10, 2015 Nah, no beef tubes that I've seen attach to shafts dude. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J.A.Son Posted September 11, 2015 Share Posted September 11, 2015 God knows what I was looking at then!? Though it was a bit odd nobody was talking about their rigs shaking to bits Roughly how much a pair? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zombi Posted September 11, 2015 Share Posted September 11, 2015 I can't remember, so take a look on his facebook page. In my signature, click on the Loaded Ox link, that be him. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J.A.Son Posted October 21, 2015 Share Posted October 21, 2015 Back from the grave, we'll most of it! I'm about to wire up my own LED looms, can someone confirm if you're wiring the leds up in parallel can you just use one resistor for the lot? If so, how do you calculate the resistor value- add the amp per led?Just thought it'd make a neater job if possible... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zombi Posted October 21, 2015 Share Posted October 21, 2015 (edited) I did parallel for both mine for max brightness.To figure out resistance you need to know the forward voltage of your LEDS plus the voltage powering them Forward voltage is different for different colours. There's plenty of info about it out there - it didn't take me too long to research it and understand it. Edited October 21, 2015 by Zombi Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zombi Posted October 21, 2015 Share Posted October 21, 2015 A good rule of thumb though, the amp draw for standard LEDs will be about 20mA. And for forward voltage, red yellow and orange are around 2v, the rest are 3v.You also need to take into account the voltage you're sending to the LEDs. I made a small table for myself in XLS, I'll try and post it here. I might have already posted in my Mud Pig build thread though. I forget! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zombi Posted October 21, 2015 Share Posted October 21, 2015 Open that open and amaze Book1.xls Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J.A.Son Posted October 22, 2015 Share Posted October 22, 2015 [Sorry, there is a problemThe page you are trying to access is not available for your account.Error code: 2C171/1]That's a new one! I guess the forum server (laptop ) is still in critical care?That aside, do you have a link to the eBay seller you had your leds from? What was the advantage of the flat-tops? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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