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The Budget-Maxx.


Tug

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It's worn off, but I think I purchased a 1700 kV.

It flies and doesn't get too hot, before I decide I'm starting to get the red mist and it's time to call it a day!

Al.

Call what a day? Not RC?

1700kv is OK, that's what I'm running in this truck currently.

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I recognise in my 'older wisdom' that I can start to enjoy things a little too much - go faster, try this / that jump, etc., which could risk ... more expense ... so decide I really can do without having another repair bill, and 'call it a day'.

 

Al.

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I recognise in my 'older wisdom' that I can start to enjoy things a little too much - go faster, try this / that jump, etc., which could risk ... more expense ... so decide I really can do without having another repair bill, and 'call it a day'.

Al.

So not quit the hobby, just leave the Maxx as it is?

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To be honest its been 'finding time'.

Much of that as we all know is 'you make time'.

House move, work, travel ... there are 2 parks nearby.

I'm figuring out the potential consequences first, before I hit the parks with the beasts.

 

Possibly best not to go there straight away with the 1/6 2-stroke petrol 'Blue Thunder' methinks!!

 

Al.

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Testing went well, a little too quick off the mark considering I've got punch down on one! I'll live with it.

The LVC is bothering me. I've got an Ezrun 150 Amp Pro ESC that's set to 3.2 volts per cell to achieve a perfect 3.4 volt cut-off, I've also got two Xerun ESCs that I've had to set to 3.0 volts per cell to achieve a perfect 3.4 volt cut-off, but this one was cutting really early, so down it went to 2.8 volts per cell. Still it cut early, so it's now set to its lowest LVC of 2.6 volts per cell! That seems to be OK, the alarm didn't go off and that's set to 3.2 volts per cell. I then charged the cells back up to 20% to go and test again, but a grub screw decided that red threadlock wasn't man enough to hold it in and backed out. I'll let the threadlock cure over night and hopefully test again tomorrow.

I've half a mind to ask for another one as that is some seriously poor calibrating! I suppose if it works, I might as well live with it. Any thoughts on that?

That's all for now, hopefully testing will resume tomorrow.

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Testing went well, a little too quick off the mark considering I've got punch down on one! I'll live with it.

The LVC is bothering me. I've got an Ezrun 150 Amp Pro ESC that's set to 3.2 volts per cell to achieve a perfect 3.4 volt cut-off, I've also got two Xerun ESCs that I've had to set to 3.0 volts per cell to achieve a perfect 3.4 volt cut-off, but this one was cutting really early, so down it went to 2.8 volts per cell. Still it cut early, so it's now set to its lowest LVC of 2.6 volts per cell! That seems to be OK, the alarm didn't go off and that's set to 3.2 volts per cell. I then charged the cells back up to 20% to go and test again, but a grub screw decided that red threadlock wasn't man enough to hold it in and backed out. I'll let the threadlock cure over night and hopefully test again tomorrow.

I've half a mind to ask for another one as that is some seriously poor calibrating! I suppose if it works, I might as well live with it. Any thoughts on that?

That's all for now, hopefully testing will resume tomorrow.

as long as you know your own kit and its own little foibles imo it dosnt matter

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as long as you know your own kit and its own little foibles imo it dosnt matter

Kinda what I was thinking, as long as it does cut, and not too early, then it's doing its job.

Cheers.

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I felt the guilts this morning because I was tinkering when I should've been working, so because of my guilty conscience, there are no pictures of the following because I was working as fast as possible.

The grub screw that backed out last night was the screw that secures the drive Cup onto the diff pinion shaft. This morning I decided to strip both diffs out and try to drill small holes into these shafts. This went swimmingly well, it now allows the grub screw to sit inside a hole in the pinion shaft, this means there's more contact surface for the threads to be threadlocked onto, it also means the pinion shaft can't move in and out of the diff, so the mesh remains constant. I did all of this because when the drive Cup came off last night, I was able to push it back on, but of course that pressure meant the pinion shaft slipped back in to the diff housing, the pinion was then pressed against the diff cup! This would've chewed up the cup in no time!

I hope that makes sense, I can always take pictures next time I'm taking her apart, if anyone's interested.

That's all for now, I'm hoping to continue testing the LVC very soon.

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That thing flies!!!!

I really do think it sounds faster than it actually is! The Savvy I've just built is far faster, and that's running a lower Kv motor.

More vids of both to follow. ;)

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I've just taken her out again, the cells were at 20% as I just wanted to test the LVC again. It's currently set at 2.6 volts per cell, she cut out just fine with all the cells reading 3.4-3.5. I'll stick with it for now because it's basically working, just more poorly calibrated than all my other HW ESCs.

I did shoot some vid, I'll go through it later to see if it's worth posting.

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Testing went well, a little too quick off the mark considering I've got punch down on one! I'll live with it.

The LVC is bothering me. I've got an Ezrun 150 Amp Pro ESC that's set to 3.2 volts per cell to achieve a perfect 3.4 volt cut-off, I've also got two Xerun ESCs that I've had to set to 3.0 volts per cell to achieve a perfect 3.4 volt cut-off, but this one was cutting really early, so down it went to 2.8 volts per cell. Still it cut early, so it's now set to its lowest LVC of 2.6 volts per cell! That seems to be OK, the alarm didn't go off and that's set to 3.2 volts per cell. I then charged the cells back up to 20% to go and test again, but a grub screw decided that red threadlock wasn't man enough to hold it in and backed out. I'll let the threadlock cure over night and hopefully test again tomorrow.

I've half a mind to ask for another one as that is some seriously poor calibrating! I suppose if it works, I might as well live with it. Any thoughts on that?

That's all for now, hopefully testing will resume tomorrow.

My EZRUN is exactly the same. Cuts way too early.

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The only two things I'd change on this are the hinge pins to Lunsford, no idea where to get them, and an FLM chassis.

Hinge pins to Lunsford? Sounds like "How far to Hitchin?"

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Stock hinge pins for the wishbones bend easily, Lunsford are said to be far stronger.

Nothing wrong with buying and parting cars out. Once you've bought it, it's yours to do with what you want.

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I have been running the Lunsford ones for a yrar and can honestly say they are cr4p. Bend like cheese, a lot easier than stock pins I can tell you.

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