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What did you do to your model today?


stretch

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20 minutes ago, totlxtc said:

Personally i wouldnt risk it. I hear you can use acetone too but that can leave the lexan misty.

 

You could buy some black vinyl, make a template and then stick it onto the window area. Mess up you can just try again.

 

Stick some masking tape over the window, trace the recess, take off the tape and pit it onto the vinyl and cut around.

 

EDIT: Hear nitro fuel works too. I just worry you have to be precise with the removal.

Just ordered some black vinyl 👍 very good idea and like you said if I mess up can do it again when you a peed off you don’t think of something so simple as that 🤣

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21 minutes ago, RC4WD fan said:

Just ordered some black vinyl 👍 very good idea and like you said if I mess up can do it again when you a peed off you don’t think of something so simple as that 🤣


Little life hack for you.

 

Get a spray bottle (like the ones you mist plants with). Fill it half full with water and add few drops of washing liquid. Spray the back of the vinyl and you can slide it in place then squeegie it in place with something that wont scratch the vinyl. You will also stop any annoying bubbles.

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1 hour ago, totlxtc said:

I hear you can use acetone too but that can leave the lexan misty.


I’ve tried using acetone to remove paint from lexan before and I really wouldn’t recommend trying it. Not only does it cloud the lexan/polycarbonate but it also weakens it and makes it very brittle. It wasn’t even that good at getting the paint off. 
 

Tamiya do a polycarbonate cleaner which I think will take PS paint off. But from what I’ve read it can be quite a slow process and there aren’t many/any places to buy it from in the UK (which probably means it’s got some “good” chemicals in it)


https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/225093421586

 

 

 

Edited by BigGinge
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2 hours ago, RC4WD fan said:

I have and Amazon only come up with desolvit sticky stuff remover there are other brands on graffiti cleaner/remover but don’t know if it will do any damage 

The Desolvit graffiti aerosol I had is several years old, so looks like no longer available. Others have used Tamiya Polycarbonate cleaner or Paint remover for paint removal but thats also hard to find in UK. Brake cleaner is a possible alternative as it contains aliphatic hydrocarbons, buy always best to test on a scrap piece of lexan.

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10 hours ago, totlxtc said:

@Grogg careful removing those windows. You might lose some structural integrity. And seeing as you are planning on running huge power it may end up on its roof alot leaving all that hard work and time wasted.

 

I probably won't use this as an RC every again now that I've achieved the goals this project was meant to achieve - I much prefer running 1/8 scale for thrashing around with;

 

1, Build a Tamiya Rock Socker and my first RC.

 

2, Convert it from a rock crawler to a race truck/stadium truck/short course truck

 

3, And to get the thing to go above 30mph - I got 47mph out of it without the body shell and 35mph with the body shell on it before I started to cut out bits for the grill or added a rear wing, I haven't run it since I got 35mph with the body shell on nor since I cut away parts of the shell for a metal grill, added a rear wing or the NOS tanks.  One of the mates that got me into this can get over 76mph out of his, though besides the body shell shape - the body shell isn't even made by Tamiya, and maybe 4 parts not a single piece of it is made by Tamiya yet alone for the CR-01 chassis, so though it has the Rock Socker look about it, I personally don't think it should be classed or qualify as a Rock Socker yet alone a Tamiya anything.

 

4. Install a FPV system, I've done this already temporarily without the body shell, and tested it so it all works, so this I can't finish until I finish painting the body shell, and to be honest it's just a case of securing a tray from underneath the hood to underneath the rear tray of the body shell and positioning the camera on the tray inside the cab, and the transmitter under the tray - which I've already made, so a 2 minute job at that if that.

 

So I'll most likely just leave it on a shelf once I've finished it, all I have left to do now is to paint the body shell. really.  It is a fully functional RC car already, I've even ''tuned it'' to the best of my abilities, I originally built it with 2 steering servos and 4 wheel steering, and after my first outing with it decided that even with the larger turning circle of locked diffs it handled a lot better not just on 2 wheel steering - as in disable 4 wheel steering, but with the rear steering servo removed, I lowered it a bit more, lengthened the wheelbase more than I did when I built it, and played around with all the settings on the Hobbywing app.  It's safe to say that I've built, stripped and rebuilt it over a dozen  times, and can do so from memory now.

 

Funnily enough parts I ordered for this build back in January where only just delivered when my HPI Savage XL and a whole bunch of stuff for my 100mph TT-02 build was delivered last week.

Edited by Grogg
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6 hours ago, RC4WD fan said:

Just ordered some black vinyl 👍 very good idea and like you said if I mess up can do it again when you a peed off you don’t think of something so simple as that 🤣

 

Heat the vinyl up with a heat gun away from the body shell, don't even point the heat gun in the direction of the body shell.  There's very very good videos of people doing it on YouTube, especially with the carbon fiber finished vinyl, and they all get very very good results using nothing more than a cheap heat gun, a spay bottle of soapy water and a Stanely knife/scalpel

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Nothing big, my new build sca-1e van keeps doing rear prop shaft in, been told its the angle despite mounting shocks at top position for lowest ride height, so after some head scratching i decided to fit a couple of spacers under each shock piston, this drops ride height by about 4mm on each shock, used rc plane prop adaptors for the spacers, if this does not fix it then the car goes up for sale, i have no place for shelf queen models, in fact i just dont get the whole lets spend £200-300  on a model to sit it on a shelf and just look at it......either they work and are reliable or they go, same applies to models not being used due to not enjoying/having time or place to run them

shock spacer.JPG

lowered.JPG

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2 hours ago, Lone-wolf said:

Nothing big, my new build sca-1e van keeps doing rear prop shaft in, been told its the angle despite mounting shocks at top position for lowest ride height, so after some head scratching i decided to fit a couple of spacers under each shock piston, this drops ride height by about 4mm on each shock, used rc plane prop adaptors for the spacers, if this does not fix it then the car goes up for sale, i have no place for shelf queen models, in fact i just dont get the whole lets spend £200-300  on a model to sit it on a shelf and just look at it......either they work and are reliable or they go, same applies to models not being used due to not enjoying/having time or place to run them

shock spacer.JPG

lowered.JPG


…what if ya broke them and yer skint? 🤣🤣🤣

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18 minutes ago, totlxtc said:


…what if ya broke them and yer skint? 🤣🤣🤣

 

Or how about just as a trophy of the first RC car you have ever owned and built?

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1 hour ago, Stormbringer said:

Turned out smart mate :good:

It did 😁it’s not perfect but I’m more than happy with the outcome after nearly launching it out the window 🤣

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Decided my not a rock crawler Rock Socker needed some external fuel tanks to go along with the NOS tanks I installed the other day, soy I primed and painted up a pair in the right shade or red, not Bright Red, but simply Tamiya Red.

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1 hour ago, RC4WD fan said:

 

These look very very similar to the ones I ordered back in January for my Rock Socker that where finally delivered on Saturday the 14th of May.  So much so it wouldn't surprise me to learn that they where made by and came out of the same factory and manufacturer, despite being different brands and priced vastly differently.

Edited by Grogg
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1 hour ago, Grogg said:

 

These look very very similar to the ones I ordered back in January for my Rock Socker that where finally delivered on Saturday the 14th of May.  So much so it wouldn't surprise me to learn that they where made by and came out of the same factory and manufacturer, despite being different brands and priced vastly differently.

Think I know the ones you’re on about do they have multiple offsets and changeable hubs of different offsets as well?

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1 hour ago, RC4WD fan said:

Think I know the ones you’re on about do they have multiple offsets and changeable hubs of different offsets as well?

 

I think so, they're Injora branded aluminum beaded wheels, it was that long ago that I ordered them, I actually forgotten I had ordered them and was waiting on them being delivered, that I can't actually remember their complete specs other than they're 1.9'' diameter wheels.

Edited by Grogg
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