BigGinge

I see I should have looked in here before posting up on the other thread. Interested to see how it turns out and hear how much "fun" it is to put on.

I saw people using quite a few different methods for putting body lines on when I was looking at what to do with the yellow Delta TT-01 and the simplest looked to be using some kyosho micron tape to mark them out. Probably not all that durable for a runner but if it is mostly going to sit and look pretty it should hold up fine. I suspect there may be some art in picking the best width, and then in actually applying it without it breaking, but I guessed that the thinner stuff would likely look more realistic. Kyosho Micron Tape - (Black) 0.7mm x 8m 1860 (modelsport.co.uk)

I've just got in without any trouble. Might be worth clearing out your bowser cache and any aliexpress cookies in case there is something in there causing you trouble.

I don’t know about the sticker options (presumably you could get a sheet of window tint film for a full size car and use that if you wanted) but you can definitely use a specialist paint to tint the windows like that. https://www.modelsport.co.uk/product/tamiya-ps-31-smoke-polycarbonate-spray-paint-1954

I’ve tried using acetone to remove paint from lexan before and I really wouldn’t recommend trying it. Not only does it cloud the lexan/polycarbonate but it also weakens it and makes it very brittle. It wasn’t even that good at getting the paint off. Tamiya do a polycarbonate cleaner which I think will take PS paint off. But from what I’ve read it can be quite a slow process and there aren’t many/any places to buy it from in the UK (which probably means it’s got some “good” chemicals in it) https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/225093421586

I went along last year and a nice time running round the trails they had set up. Tried my hand at the comp line as well but my TRX4 wasn’t the right thing to be doing that with. Sounds like they have a bit more planned this time round too. Suspect the baby and general family commitments mean I probably won’t make it back this year, unfortunately One thing I would say is it’s worth taking a good pair of boots and/or wellies with you. Most of the ground was rock hard last year but there were some very soft patches which were claiming peoples footwear on a fairly regular basis.

We have a fairly fancy coffee machine at work with grinders for regular and decaf coffee beans. Recently someone evil swapped the two around which, unsurprisingly, resulted in a fairly large number of grumpy people in the office. Until someone noticed and sent round a message to let people know about the change.

Why not just stick a GPS on the car and measure out on the road?

I think this might be happening because of the orientation of the servos. So the rear diff needs its servo to be fully counter clockwise to be locked, where the front diff needs its servo to be fully clockwise to be locked (I may be mixing up locked/unlocked here). So, when you switch the channels over you’re inverting the operation as well as changing the channels round. That sounds confusing trying to explain it without going into too much detail. Almost needs some sort of graphics to explain properly. This view might help though, when you consider the cable is being pulled/pushed in a different direction (clockwise/counterclockwise) for the front and rear servos.

I think there might be a third option now as the high trail trx4 come with some 135mm 2.2” tires which look a lot like the original 1.9 canyon trails.

I've not had any issues with the 3 traxxas mini servos in my TRX4 that run the diffs and gearbox. I did make sure to set the end points carefully with my radio (FS-GT5) so that they aren't sat putting any force into the spring loaded actuators which might be the thing helping me. Unless it's just luck and I've jinxed myself by saying this so will have them all die next time I go out.

It doesn't seem to have made it any more likely to roll over than the stock oil when going fast and it might be a little smoother over bumps at speed now. Though I suspect the difference is fairly subtle and could easily be masked/overshadowed by having a bit more stick time with the truck and getting used to the handling (or just trying to remember it isn't a buggy when your flying down the trail).

I think that's what I put in mine when I rebuilt them a while back. From memory i100 cst is a bit thinner than the stock oil but I thought I'd give it a try to see if it improved handling at speed on the trail; it might have a little bit.

Yep, I just pop about £3 worth of Amazon’s finest NIMH AA rechargeable batteries in mine. Seems to last for ages.

It’s taken me a while to remember to take a picture but finally got one tonight. I suspect it won’t be long before it all goes back to a No. 7 now though as it’s starting to get a little too bushy in places. Conveniently the grey seems to have disappeared in that photo.

I’ve got a few options at the moment. Some are likely to be highly inappropriate (gold ones from an imprezza) while at least one pair match what come with the latest TT-02 release I think. Will try some out once I’ve got the shell trimmed to make sure the track width on them is right as that caught me out when I did my last build.

JK RC finally got some of the Tamiya Mitsubishi Lancer Evo V shells back in stock last week so I got mine this morning. Now I need to work out what colour it’s going to get painted.

Original product page and user manual for this: https://www.flysky-cn.com/gt5 https://static1.squarespace.com/static/5bc852d6b9144934c40d499c/t/5d25b606ea774a0001d8ce73/1562752646884/FS-GT5+User+manual+20180919.pdf The list of compatible AFHDS 2A receivers should be on the pages here too: https://www.flysky-cn.com/receivers https://www.flysky-cn.com/gyroscope-receivers-2 I pretty much always just use the FS-BS6 with my GT5s

LC racing have a few kit options that might work for a bit of back garden bashing. I’ve got one of the 1/14 scale truggies which is very good fun and pretty solid. But they also do a few other variants of that chassis, alongside some slightly larger scale model buggies and a rally car, if that’s not your thing. https://www.dms-racing.com/browse-store/manufacturer/lc-racing/models/models---all-types---off-road?keyword= https://www.dms-racing.com/browse-store/manufacturer/lc-racing/models/models---all-types---on-road?keyword= Otherwise Traxxas, kyosho and a couple of others, have a few models you buy as a kit but, unfortunately, there isn’t a huge choice out there if Tamiya is off the list.

the kebab of course. edit: This is where it all started, it was definitely @Bert_w164's fault.

I'd put a direct drive extruder on my ender 3 before trying to print TPE so wonder if that might be the thing that made the difference for me. I think the models I was working with had a fair bit of them with single thickness walls (the outer layer on the no-foam foams below) and these were mostly ok. Unfortunately the inserts didn't end up giving me the results I wanted as the material I had was still a bit too firm for this application so I gave up after trying a few different designs.

I've done a bit of TPU printing before and apart from it being really really stringy it all went surprisingly well. What sort of set up are you using for the prints, is it a bowden or direct drive extruder?

If it's any help we had our third arrive back in September. Since then I've managed to just about find enough time in the evening (after the bigger kids are in bed) to finish up one build that I started just before the baby arrived and start and finish a 2nd build that I picked up by "accident". This certainly wasn't the quickest way to get to a working car but it was quite nice relaxing in the evening spending a little time with the tools out on the dining table.m It's surprising how well the kit builds work if you fit them into little time slots as you can normally work through one or two of the instruction steps in any 20-30 minute windows you can grab.

Not this again. Must resist.

Any more than 250w, or trigger activation of the motor (rather than peddle activated) or an assisted top speed over 15 mph technically means you’re riding an unlicensed, uninsured motorbike. If you got caught that could, in theory, result in some fairly nasty charges. In practice there seem to be hoards of people (most with a Deliveroo/Uber east bag on their backs) riding these around the streets of Cambridge without any obvious repercussions. I would recommend staying clear of any off road trails if you get something bigger than the leagal spec. Just because I see how much damage these do to the trails in our local forest (not quite as bad as people riding motorcross bikes round the trails but still not good). What I would say though is that you should see if you can get a trial of a normal e-bike from somewhere local to you. You might be surprised how much extra you get from the legal systems when they are set up with a decent boost. The specialized kenevo I had a try on easily shifted my 18 (or possibly 20) stone up a fairy steep off road track at near top speed without me really putting in any effort at all. I think the only place they might come up a bit short is if you had a long, clear, journey to do on the road in which case 15 mph might start to feel a bit slow after a while.