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*Losi LST & XXL Owners Club*


dtokez

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Just received this - 100% brand new in original packaging - back-up for the one on mine already, just in case.

There's a couple left if anyone's interested - good price.

 

LOSB2270-Team-Losi-High-Performance-Graphite-Chassis-Plate-LST

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LOSB2270-Team-Losi-High-Performance-Graphite-Chassis-Plate-LST/152071238310?_trksid=p3693.c100102.m2452&_trkparms=ao%3D1%26asc%3D20140212121249%26meid%3Dbb10162878af4161bf0987e8778da0be%26pid%3D100102%26

 

Al.

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Not bad, esp as I'm sure they will be getting quite rare. Don't think they did one for the XXL, plus as mine is a basher...I prefer the stock metal one. My last one cost me just £24 delivered.  

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Yahoo fixed my wheelie bar on the xxle, used a standard rear lower arm off a slash / rustler 2wd. Snapped 2 standard ones, on mine it was always the plastic bit on the end of the alloy rod / bar if that makes sense. This should last now, i removed the bar, replaced it with 1 of these https://www.modelsport.co.uk/traxxas-suspension-arms-left-and-right/rc-car-products/35571 and bolted it into the same place with a bit fuel tubing to take up the space on the wide end

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Looking for a bit of advice please. The drive to the front wheels on my lst XXL2 E went earlier today, and both front wheels turned the same direction rather than opposite (as it should through a differential I believe ). I was lucky this time as the screw that secures the front drive shaft to the front diff cup fell onto the floor as I turned the car over, could've easily have lost the screw! 

 

I read that some lst xxl2 owners use loctite on the screw to help to stop this happening but which version of loctite threadlock is best to use? General use 243 for example or the high strength versions 270/276?

 

Thanks

 

 

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I would not use high strength.

Going by your definitions, use general, ensure the grub is tightened onto the flat of the output shaft, tighten hard, then leave a minimum of 24 hours to set, before you use it.

If you use the high strength, if / when you need to remove it, you won't be able to without 'extreme measures'!

 

Al.

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RBovenzi,

It's generally prudent to check any vehicle over when you first get your hands on it, especially such parts as grub screws holding drive cups in place, to make sure all nuts and bolts have been secured properly.

As Atom mentions, blue (e.g. 243/Z-42) threadlock would be the best choice because if you use red, and certainly too much of it, then a soldering iron on the metal will no doubt be needed and, of course, that could cause problems for any nearby plastics. Still, saying that, blue may require some heat on occasion.

 

Tom.

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10 hours ago, Tommygunn said:

RBovenzi,

It's generally prudent to check any vehicle over when you first get your hands on it, especially such parts as grub screws holding drive cups in place, to make sure all nuts and bolts have been secured properly.

As Atom mentions, blue (e.g. 243/Z-42) threadlock would be the best choice because if you use red, and certainly too much of it, then a soldering iron on the metal will no doubt be needed and, of course, that could cause problems for any nearby plastics. Still, saying that, blue may require some heat on occasion.

 

Tom.

 

Thank you Tommygunn and Atom3624. I have ordered some threadlock based on your recommendations. 

 

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LST2-Spec Raminator powered up ready to go, have a little play in the local park with my elder lad with his Stampede Digger, I cranked the throttle and saw it was 2WD!!

A quick check and it had to be a grub screw.

 

Swapped the batteries over to the E-Maxx, had a blast, broke a tie rod bolt, but had great fun, then got back to the Raminator - removed the front skid, opened up the front, removed the diff - no problem.

Replaced the diff, tightened the grub - running perfectly - ready for next time.

 

Al.

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Anyone running T-Bone Bumpers on their XXLs? Looking especially at the rear bumper with their wheelie bar.

 

IMG_20160217_150102_zpsg89z9rgd.jpg

 

This seems much more like what i'd want than the options of "no wheelie bar" and "wheelie bar the size of an airfield". Just wonder if it's worth the wait.

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  • 1 month later...

Finally, after about 2 ¾ years, I have achieved my electrified LST2 and it rips!

The specs are as follows:
Hobbywing WP 8BL150
ZIPPY Compact 5800mAh 4s 40/50c
Gool RC 4076 2000Kv 4P
XT150 plugs
Losi single speed hub
Selection of GDS pinions (24T,25T & 26T)
Homemade motor mount and battery tray

I think that's it.

Tom.

 

P1160184%2025%20jpeg.jpg

 

P1160183%2025%20jpeg_1.jpg

 

P1160182%2025%20jpeg.jpg

 

P1160180%2025%20jpeg.jpg

 

P1160178%2025%20jpeg.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...

Has anyone else here got any data on their truck's top speed?

After I completed my electric conversion I took it out to a car park, taped on my Garmin GPS and consistently clocked 62.5Kph(38.8Mph).

That was with a 4S pack, 25T/63T ratio and forward only, swapped gears(high ratio) tranny.

Is that good for that spec? What have you achieved?

 

Tom.

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  • 2 months later...

So I've joined the master race after buying a huge setup from Supersavage. Efficient honest deal. Top rating to him.

I've come up through the sizes in the last 12 months. Only had quick play with the XXL e2 and WOW !!

Got 78 pages of this forum to gen up on. 

Ta

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On ‎2017‎-‎05‎-‎07 at 16:01, supersavage said:

Oops lol

 

gpydHjy.jpg

 

That truck looks sick, have anymore pictures? Are you planning on fixing the body some how? I recommend you shoe going the body post holes and then place a lexan spacer on the out side so the clips don't go thru the body. What motor do you run?

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4 minutes ago, tt3az said:

 

That truck looks sick, have anymore pictures? Are you planning on fixing the body some how? I recommend you shoe going the body post holes and then place a lexan spacer on the out side so the clips don't go thru the body. What motor do you run?

 

Thanks though it's not my truck any more Hegs44 is now the proud owner of it. The body is repairable and perfectly usable. I shall have a look and see whether I have any more pics. I had a Max 8 system in it with a 2200kv motor.  

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25 minutes ago, Hegs44 said:

So anyone used these "Turnigy Graphene 6000mAh 3S 65C" or had experience of Graphene in RC in general.

Thanks

 

 

AussieRCplayground on you tube has used some graphenes I think, though before ordering any batteries make sure that they fit in tray as the LSTs one is bit weird with its size. 

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