tt3az

Battery boxes are these: https://www.hpiracing.com/en/part/100908 Shipping boxes: 8.4£ Shipping skid plate: 4.9£

No, it only fits savage XL.

Sold. Please remove.

So how is it going?

Hi, I am looking for caster blocks for the HPI savage, complete set (85048) or only the caster blocks itself. Maybe you have some un-used spares or you have changed to aftermarket ones. Just send me a PM. I am also looking for stock shock towers and body posts. It is always good with a few extra spares hehe.

The IRC shouldn't leak, and IRC have issues with quality control I think. I got two IRC diff cups and the outdrive sized in them for some reason so I wanted a refund and I got it. I also missed a few parts when I ordered my big bores so I had to wait extra time. But now I am set. RPM arms are nice, but MadMax arms are better they are nylon and stock design, search for YY-Mad Max arms on ebay. I refrain from using the IRC lower mount blocks because you will need to drill the a-arms in order to mount them which creates a weakspot on the lower a-arms. The IRC 6mm spacers with Mad Max arms is the best setup I think. I use RPM arms with IRC 6mm spacer and it works okay, only issue is that the screws will bend when jumping. I personaly haven't had so great success with either stock arms or RPM, maybe it is the cold that makes them brittle, it has been a long winter.

I use this shell: Reinforced with amazing goop and drywall tape, allthough it has still cracked on a few places but I have fixed it. It is an old picture, I use RPM arms now days, I have two set, blue and black just in case I break something. Truck it dope, some few things I don't like are the lower a-arm screws, they are all bent a bit due to the 6mm spacer you have to use when mounting IRC shocks on rpm arms. What else, the servo saver suck despite HD spring, I tighten it a bit more today because the servo saver engaged all time when turning. The tp 4070 107mm motor has alot of torque and is 8s rated but I still have to run heatsink and fans to keep it cool which was a surprise, I thought it would run cooler than my 4092 1730kv motor but apparently not. I jump alot so it puts alot of stress on all components so breakage is not uncommon and I make tweaks and fixes all time, but that is the price you have to pay running custom trucks on 6s with big moters .

Not much to see:

It cost 75 SEK (approx. 6 £) to send 4, 5 and 6 with regular parcel, delivery 2-3 days non traceable to UK.

You mean article 4, 5 and 6? I will check the shipping costs.

Sold.

That savage is ancient. But you can upgrade it, I suggest the machined ring and pinion, modelsport has them in stock, get them before it is too late they are hard to come by. Center diff mount from alza is dope, but if you are planning on using it then you might as well get the XL TVP and bulkhead brace kit. Keep on modding, savages are funn and durable as long as it isnt freeze .

I don't understand why they still use those crappy plastic geared servos. They have metal gear kit for the 2075 they should put those instead. As far as the differentials, well they should be stronger because the ring and pinion are larger as well as 6 spider gears inside the diff cup instead of 4.

Machined ring and pinion for savage xl is now in stock, make sure to get yours before they get out of stock and then have to wait 6 months for re-stock: https://www.modelsport.co.uk/hpi-machined-bulletproof-diff-bevel-gear-29t-9t-set/rc-car-products/35325

I have built my XL and you are still not done hah?

I also like my trucks to look nice but some upgrades gives no value in terms of durability, that is what I meant.

Proline upgrades for the x maxx adds little value to be honest, the body is still as weak as the stock one and needs shoe goo and drywall tape and washers around the cage screws, the tires weight almost the double of the stock ones and the shocks I don't know so much about. The x maxx is too big and expensive to be modded like 1/10 and 1/8 trucks with bling bling. I use proline stuff myself but they are overpriced for the quality you get, both bodies and wheels are as weak as stock stuff. I just wish they would sell the x maxx as a roller so you could add you own electronics because right now the electronics suck on the x maxx 8s. And that snapon body is also stupid, it is not functional for bashing and traxxas throws too much money and advertising and non-value adding activities. A good product can self advertise if it is state of the art but traxxas is still stuck in the 80s idea of expensive and offensive advertising.

Build is comming closer: '' IRC shocks were dope but I had to drill larger holes in the pistons because even with 32wt oil there was almost no bound or rebound. IRC sell dual rate pistons though but I fixed the issue myself :). Other than that I am waiting on some new castor blocks, steering hubs and rear bearing carrier and some 18mm offset hex hubs. All alloy parts from integy. Initially I had alloy shock towers and RPM a-arms but it didn't work so well with LST shocks so I am back to stock using IRC upper shock mounts and IRL lower 6mm spacers.

4092 1730kv, same as in my e-maxx. It would be better with a 1480kv in terms of temps but I use a heatsink with dual fans (it worked on my e-maxx).

The sintered gears are a joke that is why they are cheaper than the black machined ones. I thought the 5.9 roller would have the black ring, but apparently not. I am a bit dissapointed. Anyways this is the truck in its current form:

Huh, two of my sintered rings were damaged from factory on a totally unused roller: I had two machined rings though that I mounted, that I got off a used chassis but I still want these replaced as backup as it was intended. The shop still deciding if they will replace it or not as the technician thought it was "strange" that I dissassembled the new chassis...well it is a freaking roller chassis what do they think people do with those?

Do you get the shock spacers when you buy the LST shocks from IRC?

You don't have any Alza center diff mount for the savage for sale?

...women