Redback

Gl with the sale m8, sure will be enjoyed by someone. 🙂

This isnt true, castle will absoulutely warrenty it. Their service is great, the turn around time isnt great as it goes off to USA, so is over 2 week turn around. Check the white cable matches the white dot on the sensor harness, mine was off by 1 plug and backwards.

Would you sell as a roller ( no body, no remote, esc etc ) and not ship with hermies who will destroy this transporting it ... what deal can be done? £100 shipped for rolling chassis?

Got a pic of the esc and sensor harness?, my esc came with the harness plugged in backwards(esc side), no idea how it got through QC, but yeah, that was the issue with mine.

Yes i know, but i just need one axle not two. Im not wasting 20£ for half a bag of parts 😛

Element Gatekeeper, so just standard axles, i will probably just go metal, the element plastics are weird.

Went to go for a crawl. Then noticed this. Can't get replacment axles alone, wtf... 😡

If you love em dont take em. Salt eats away slowly. If you dont mind that as they are only toys, its a blast.

Ok brands. Ace Gen, CoreRC, Peak usally solid but always check your batteries arrive balanced. * *You need a battery meter to watch the lipo cells and monitor them. 1. No limit, drive time is down to mha, the size of the battery tray is your limiting factor for mha thus also volting up will also give more run time. 2. Your FTX should have a jumper for lipo. Lipos will boost your speed and also can melt brushed motors with ease due to the current delivery being much more than nimh, ease into it. Lipos will boost your runtime by 30% over nhim (weather dependent) had 9000mha 2s go for 4 hours. Ideally dont use your lipos in - temps it will kill them. 3. A dual charger, becuase nothing is worse than a dead battery, always take two with you. dont skimp out on reading the threads, follow saftey advice, people have lost their houses to lipo fires, dont be fearful of them, just be smart. If unsure, ask ask there is never a silly question.

Right my mistake not hobao, one is a rc4wd body post (sliced the side off). the other is an ftx front body post. https://wheelspinmodels.co.uk/i/210010/ Top car is body post as battery tray post. Same as the front body posts. See link above. Here you can see the rc4wd post thats been trimmed on the sides to seat correctly. And my 5mm diff output shaft with a pinion as a spur gear.

No slipper, i have a custom drive shaft i made so i can run 5mm bore pinions as spurs, this is my speed runner, there are no metal diff cases or bulkheads for the ftx range afaik. Will look for the posts, cant place the link atm.

I use body posts, you can get hobao body posts that fit the battery tray hex, it will give you way more room. As seen here.

It only made a difference because the sleeve was rubbing on the output cup, just like it grinds away on motor housings. Remvoving the sleeve removed the binding 😉

Welcome back, heading to SST this year? Cant recommend the Radiolink RC6GS V2 enough, mad range that can be boosted, tons of tuning, good bang for your buck and 4s lipo capable. Had 2 more expensive absima crap out on me. Havent tried the rest, my flysky gt3 trigger just died, so yeah, i guess it might be a matter of price or performance?

6 years later... probably not

Because it wont die... Buy cheap buy twice, not like you not to put the extra buck in you have have a premium car, use a premium motor, also it being sensored will make it crawl real nice.

That isnt the reason they get hot, It makes no diffrence, the issue is the gearing, doesnt matter what motor you put in, drop in a holmes hobbies motor it will still burn out.

Welcome, 23t pinion will make the car go faster. Maybe avoid also due to strain on motor, Cant go wrong with RW Racing pinions.

sniff the motor, smell burnt, shine a light inside the holes, does it look melted? Do they roll nicely? swap the motors around, odd it happend to two but if they were going slowish walking pace the brushes might have melted in the motor.

The body post shocks interesting.

Great looking rig, few tips If you plan to drive it, theres some mods needed to stop the leaf springs snapping due to torque causing them to "wrap" basically it needs a 3rd link "anti twist" bar to stop the axle wrapping around the leaf springs. Threadlock, now id recommend this however, the rc4wd hardware (screws) are pot metal poop and strip right away, you need threadlock ideally but you wont be able to undo the screws, something to keep in mind... My tf2 i drove 3 times and it broke on the 2nd outing, wasnt impressed for what was paid for it and their resale value is utter garbage, i truly hope you enjoy your rig.

A poor test print of a rocket car. Based on the Aussie Invader 1000kmh world record car. Maybe ill put a solid rocket motor in it and send it, or do a clean v2 print with an micro edf. Prints at .6mm on a .6mm nozzel pla, 7 hours, 85m of spool. really messy results but super fast time considering the size of the print. 280g

Took em out for the first time in a while, lots of run time issues with batteries lasting 5 min, due to high resistances and being rubbish. Got a little crawl in then a blast with the banzai for a couple of packs. Till its front feet broke loose.

Agreed, dont burn 280+ on one that just dissapointed me, 2nd hand im sure you will be happy.

Didn't like mine, too top heavy, wheel base to short even at extended wheel base. Shocking shocks and weak portal gears, long term they are not a keeper. The tires were probably the best part.