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Finally got round to putting a new shell on the outback 3 paso

Not a massive thing but fitted the wheels I got as part of my LCRacing deal to the HBX Pro and think they look pretty good. Slightly larger in diameter, but did it more that these feel a softer compound than stock.

This today 👍🏻

Stickers arrived for my Tamiya TT02 cosworth rally build 🙏🏻

Did this at the tarmac BMX pump track and had a fantastic time doing it! Hahah. I love this hobby. I think I’ll upgrade the hinge pin brackets to aluminium as I’ve had to replace the plastic ones a couple of times. My aluminium bumper holder lasted for a couple of years, so not too surprised it eventually gave way. I might have to make something more substantial this time around. Titanium would be nice for some sparks, but would end up costing more than the car’s worth 😂

Welcome! I've recently started stocking parts for the above cars. I am UK based and everything is posted out the next day with free second class delivery (you can upgrade for cost to 1st class if you're in a hurry) I have 99.7% positive feedback on Ebay and have Top Rated Seller status. Little poster attached below with example prices, this isn't the full range, and in addition I also do parts for Maverick Strada/HSP cars and a few general purpose RC related bit's too. Thanks for reading.

They gotta get rid of them somehow

I'd not thought of the banzai, it's dimensions are spot on. Not having seen one I don't know how easy it would be to raise the ride height (which it looks like it might need for rallying) but, assuming that is doable, longer shocks and you're there! Strada Rally looks like a nice car but the width is a bit outside of spec (250mm rather than ~200mm). I don't mean to be heavy handed but I might need to exclude it as an option. I'm sorry, I don't make the rules. Oh wait, I did 🙂 HPI body shells or killerbody clear shells do fit into the scale category and are a bit cheaper at least. I have a real hankeing to do a Tamiya porsche shell but I doubt it'll be possible in budget.

I'm loving the level of thought you've given this. Just what I was hoping would happen 🙂 Clarification on rules: I wasn't planning to include TX or batteries in the total budget. Somewhat arbrtraily I was planning to include th RX in my own budget since I don't seem to have a spare on in my parts bin. Body and paint definitely included in the budget. Clearly the concept favours anyone with a fully stocked parts bin. What can I say, it's much like formula one, the established teams have an advantage 🙂 . That said, if you have a whole chassis in the parts bin I think it's only fair to attach a value to it and subtract from your budget. I'm planning to lean really heavily on the second hand market for anything I can find. Only really fixed point is the scale (must be Tamiya 1/10th sort of size) and the motor (silver can or equivalent). I need to take a look at those FTX options. I'm also really drawn to trying to do something with an old Tamiya TA03 or even TL01. Cheers.

My only critique here is the TT02D Oil Filled shocks are maybe too short for rallying?

Cracking package from @SWF, pleasure doing business. Looking forward to getting this out at the weekend. This is definitely, maybe, probably the last RC of 2022 for me.

Fitted an upgraded Ballraced steering kit to the Procat, mad by Muzzoom Models.

Tekno EB410.2 in great condition with original box and instructions. Upgrades include: -Aluminium front and rear shock towers. -MIP steering rack. -Carbon fibre front and centre upper deck. -Carbon fibre battery strap. -Carbon fibre rear chassis brace. -Front spindles with steering plates. -Stainless screws. -Tekno aluminium servo horn Comes with: -Team Orion R10.1 Pro esc -Team Orion 6.5t sensored motor -Team Orion DSB-R Plus Digital Multifunction Setting Box -Savox SB-2284SG servo After £350 posted for the lot. Thanks

After seeing windz1000r's thread and the excellent price these kits are going for I bought myself an Xray XT2. Some links below. Windz's thread https://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/forums/topic/250961-thought-i-would-start-my-build-thread/ RD models https://rdmodels.co.uk/products/xray-xt2c21-2wd-1-10-electric-stadium-truck-carpet-edition-xr320204 MB models https://www.rccarshop.co.uk/XR320204-XRAY-XT2C-21-2WD-1-10-ELECTRIC-STADIUM-TRUCK-CARPET-EDITION Only done the transmission so far, went together nicely, the diff is much better than my Schumacher buggies and it includes a 3 plate slipper in the box. The top shaft has some scuffs and a bit of sanding was needed on some plastic parts but nothing major. The biggest issue is Xray use different types of bearing in different places (oiled or greased, different seal types) and its not completely clear which one is which. Electronics plan is as follows: Futaba Rx to go with my current system Hobbwing 10bl120 Banggood surpass 8.5t motor (still waiting on this) Xpert RC SI-4431 servo (There aren't many brushless servos designed for 6V so trying one of these out) 2S short batteries that I already own I've got a set of xray wheels as I've read Schumacher and Associated ST wheels rub, haven't picked any tyres yet.

Bought a bigger pinion as well 👍🏻 Not sure why Tamiya bother including the 27t silver can when they don’t include an esc?

I bought a 15t brushed motor to try out in this one

Thanks for the shoutout, i cant take credit for the original design although i did change some bits on it to make it more user friendly and a little stronger too.

Nice, be interesting to hear your thoughts on this compared to LC PTG

Not really updated this much, just had so much going on, anyway here's a quick update. So, after running the car in a Park & Ride for a while and being happy with it, it just kind of sat there whilst I was out bashing. I've since decided to bash it a little as it would get much more use, short version - it's great fun. Been out with it in the woods about five times now as a basher and even took it to Arc Raceway last weekend, where it performed very well as a semi racer. I left the car as it was really, just switched out the Hoon's for the DBoots it came on and just went straight on the dirt and jumps. The motor pulls great and seems to be handling the abuse well, as does the rest of the car really. I did pull out a rear bottom suspension mount with a silly landing and cartwheel, but simple fix. RPM do a front bumper that I squeezed on to offer a bit more front end deflection. The woods where we bash regularly has a lot of roots coming through due to the dry weather and a few times it's just caught the car dead, this adds a good deal more protection to the car and look pretty cool I think. We threw a GPS on it, just to see what it's pulling now and it topped out at 62MPH which is great fun, as the acceleration and punch it has is significant. My mate Ricky also filmed a little piece on it for his RC channel, which was very embarrassing but was great fun and we got some good footage of the car.

Ordered. Nice one 😎.

I can’t remember where I bought them, but there’s a set on eBay 👍 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/325299701854?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=uiYySV_qTHi&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=El0DyfSqRf-&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Both unused, were fitted to models but never used in anger Both retail for around £50 new https://www.modelsport.co.uk/product/etronix-303kg-009s-std-digi-servo-hv-metal-gear-waterproof-1334075 https://silverbackrcproducts.com/K-power-DM400-HV-DIGITAL-SERVO £30 each posted or £55 for both

Nice man, great read. Very helpful. I've just picked up a K8 EXB, Hobbywing 800Kv MAX5 combo. Interesting stuff with your gearing, good to hear your settled on 30/47, are you still running that ?? I'm going with 30/39 and see how I get on. Much like yourself, I have no desire to be climbing towards three figures with this, I prefer the torque. Yeah, those HB fans are pointless. Those mud guards look great, I fancy a set of those.

a good thing about the Strada is that all the HSP buggy bits like arms and gearboxes/driveshafts all fit so fixing them is cheap.

The bodyshell is a massive part of the budget, especially looking scale/being a Tamiya. Spec series style I think @Jack Reacher’s Strada idea has legs

Can’t forget my bronco for one second 😍 such a capable rig with a change of wheels and tyres 👌🏼

Love this thing, yes its size is a novelty but it’s so capable

Just started and trying to get some momentum going, my little boys are both autistic and rc is something they both show interest in which helps my addiction, channel will have a lot of variety mainly cars !! https://youtube.com/channel/UCvRC_QrJN_7IzFV_2P-UkeA check out the channel and any support would be greatly appreciated 🙏🏻. my Tamiya TT02 rally car build will be uploaded this week too 😁. also on Instagram https://www.instagram.com/masons.rc/

Features: New front suspension design featuring innovative CFF™ upper arms with improved flex characteristics and integrated camber adjustments New chassis accommodates the CFF™ front suspension, redesigned battery backstop and the revised wheelbase setting with reinforced chassis areas One-piece central front bulkhead integrates the steering arm mount and optimized wheelbase adjustments for simplicity Innovative CFF(tm) front upper arms make the X1 extremely responsive & sharp, generate fantastic cornering speed & traction, and simplify the camber adjustment process for easy setup changes Front upper arm mount allows for easier caster adjustments and top side installation for much easier assembly and maintenance Redesigned centre top deck with easier mounting Convenient battery mounting system secures the pack without O-ring or tape in a tweak-free, floating manner that improves traction and consistency, and features new low profile lightweight bushings for a sleeker look and lower CG Redesigned independent wing mount system is machined from harder carbon fibre material for more stable handling and features 2 centering pins for more secure assembly Redesigned side braces are mounted using low profile bushings to eliminate M3 nuts View full news article

Very nice mate 👍🏻

Possibly indicative that I have too many RC cars but it has taken me 8 months to get this one out for a proper trail run. Partly I think I've just been a bit precious about taking it out in the wet so I obviously waited for till the end of the dryest summer on record to be absolutely safe 🙂 Anyway, you know how some RC cars are just plain fun? This thing is an absolute hoot. Took it round a wooded trail near where we live that has a range of different surfaces including tarmac, fine gravel paths and dirt paths. Normally a spot I use for crawlers but there are plenty of chicken run options when 2WD won't quite cut it. The handling is just sublime. It moves like a real truck leaning just enough into corners but generally staying on all four wheels. I think this is because the truck is so light and the battery sits centrally and low. Suspension soaks up al the bumps and it power slides on gravel like something out of the dukes of hazard. Sure, on grass or tarmac, it will tumble if you corner too hard but that's not really what it is for. The much maligned tyres worked really well for me once they had been roughed up a bit. I'd say they've been quite carefully chosen to have just enough grip/slip to help keep the truck from tumbling while still being good enough on dirt to keep you moving. A gyro is probably mandatory. I'd concede, even with a mild brushed setup, it was a handful with gyro disabled. TBF though, much the same as my 2WD buggy. Trick is to dial in just enough gyro to help you get away in a straight line when you nail it but not to interfere when you're trying to slide it around. Not sure if they are currently in stock anywhere but for a 'something different' trail truck experience I can't recomend it enough. Definitely going to be my go to RC for light duty trails from now on.

JPS ❤️

Put a 3s in this and got to say it flys.

Put a 3s in it today and got to say this little thing is impressive.

Finished the little LC truggy 👍🏻

Finished the strip, clean and rebuild of my truggy. Had a good look for broken parts and was surprised to only find a couple of minor issues, which I’ll either ignore for now or had spares for already; happy days 😀 Also lengthened and rerouted the esc switch to keep the wires clear of the drivetrain.

**March 2010 Thread Update** General First of all, LiPo cells are no more dangerous than any other kind of cell (NiCD, NiMH etc). All cells will fail if mistreated or misused. LiPo packs come in two flavours, hardcased and softcased. Hardcased have a tough plastic box around the pack internals, and they are resistant to most impacts. They are usually more expensive than softcased packs, but they are vastly safer to use. Hardcased will have connectors either sunk into the pack itself, or on wire. Bear this in mind for what car you'll be fitting it into. Hardcased packs can be modified slightly though, to aid fitment. C-Rating is something else to consider. When looking at packs, you'll see a couple of numbers, such as '5000mah 30C'. This is the amount of current the pack can supply under load. You'll need to do a bit of maths to work it out. 3.8 x 30 = 114A 4.8 x 15 = 72A The resulting number is an indicator for how ''punchy'' the pack will feel when driven hard - the higher the number, the better. Do the maths and work out which will be better for you, as a lower capacity/high C pack is better for racing than a high capacity/lower C pack, but will be the other way around for bashing. C-ratings aren't the only thing to look at when buying a pack though. Some people will say ''A 30C pack is all you need''. This statement is very misleading and potentially dangerous. For example, say you have a car with a brushless system which is rated at 120A. That means, you need a pack which will supply 120A when asked. So, you should try a look for a pack which exceeds this requirement. This can be done with a combo of higher capacity/lower C-rating, or lower capacity/higher C-rating. However, don't automatically think that a high-C-rated pack wil always be enough. For example... If someone said you'd need a 30C pack to power the 120A system, it may sound like any 30C pack would do. Is a 1500mMAh is OK because its 30C? It definitely isn't OK. 5000MAh (5.0A) x 20C = 100A 5000MAh (5.0A) x 30C = 150A 4000MAh (4.0A) x 45C = 180A 1500MAh (1.5A) x 30C = 45A As with most stuff, the more you spend, the better the pack. Beware of packs with soft cases, and packs with suspiciously good numbers from the Far East through eBay (a lot are just made-up numbers). If you use a pack that can't supply enough current, then the pack will overheat and fail with spectacular consequences. Charging The method most LiPo chargers use, is the CC/CV method. This means that the user inputs the charge rate, cell count and/or capacity, and the charger will then charge the pack in the following way: - Charge to peak voltage (3.7v per cell) at max charge current (1C normally) - Holds the voltage at 3.7v per cell until the pack is approx 80%, lowering the amperage constantly - ''Fills up'' the remaining capacity while keeping the voltage the same For all packs and applications, charge at the rate of 1C. This means that 100mah = 0.1A. 3600mah = 3.6A 4000mah = 4.0A 5400mah = 5.4A etc. Expect the charging times in the 20 to 75min region. Some packs can be charged at 2C, 3C or even higher, but the overall useable life of the pack is drastically cut (from 500+ cycles to 100ish cycles), and there isn't any performance benefit to charging higher (just decreased charging times), so its not worth it You can balance charge packs too, where each individual cell in the pack is charged on its own. This requires a dedicated balance charger, or a separate balancer. You don't need to balance charge on every charge, but depending on the manufacturer, you should do so every 50 or so charges. Double and triple check all charger settings (cell type, capacity and voltage) before starting the charge. Discharging LiPo cells do not need manually discharging as they don't suffer from the memory effect that NiMH or NiCD's used to. They should never be allowed to drop below 3v per cell. When this happens, there is an irreversible chemical reaction inside the cell itself, the the cell expands. The cell will now be fit for the bin. For general driving/bashing, you should use a Low Voltage Cutoff (if your ESC doesn't have one built in). This is a device that is wired inline with the ESC and receiver, and alerts you to when you approach the 3v threshold (by LED or buzzer). If you are using LiPo cells for 5 minute races, you don't need an LVC. As the design of LiPo packs have such a flat discharge curve, its easy to see when the pack is low on capacity. If you are driving and the car starts to slow down, then stop immediately, and remove the pack from the car. If you are storing LiPo packs for up to a year, its best idea not to store them fully charged, but neither at 3v/per cell. Just charge them like normal, then have a quick 3-5min drive, then put into storage. When you come to use them again, check the pack voltage on a multimeter before charging. Disposal When a pack comes to the end of its useable life (or the pack fails and puffs up), there is a simple method to make the pack safe for disposal. This is tried and tested but both car and aero LiPo users. - Attach the pack to a low drain across the main terminals (like a fan, lighting kit etc), in an open area. This is to discharge the pack to 0.0v. - Fill a plastic container with tap water, then add salt to it. Lots of salt, around half a cup per gallon. Then, submerge the pack. This is to neutralise the chemicals as much as possible, and to dissolve the aluminium tabs that connect the cells in the pack. - Leave for 7 days to completely discharge, then wrap in newspaper, and throw away in the household rubbish bin. ------------------------------------------------------ Found this online. Its aimed at the Flight guys, but it can all be applied to car use. Use it in addition to the LiPo section in out Electric Guide. Click here. Feb 2008 update - BRCA Guidelines http://www.brca.org/BRCA/elecboard/news/20...r%20Website.htm To dispose of a LiPo, you need to discharge all the cells in a pack to 0.0v using a small load, something like a fan, an LED, a motor etc. Then place it in a salt bath to break the connections inside the pack and remove the last remnants of the energy. I've read about cutting the cells slightly at the edges of each cell, it lets water into the pack, but I don't know the effects of that.

First bash today 🙂I visited my favourite bash spot which is an absolute car killer, I usually come home with a bag of bits 🤣 The MT10 took it, over and over again!

Plan B The fit and finish of Todd’s case is excellent, for now I’ve just recycled the fans that came with Sky RC blower and I will replace them with matching Centro fans with carbon covers like I’ve put on the blower Ignore the esc fan wiring, I’ll get the wiring gear out at the weekend and get it tidied up and a bit safer 🤣🤣🤣

Turns out the designer and maker of this case is a member of the Forum @toddfgand he sent me one to test 👍