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Hey guys, I've been thinking of ways to raise a little more money for charity and do something a bit fun as well! How about maybe in 2022 we get together and do a charity scale/crawl? Find a decent peak to get to the top of or a 5km stretch over some country side that would take a few hours, like an endurance run? Just testing the water, so let me know your thoughts! 🙂

I've made a few of these and can make up more if needed. They fit Turnigy 1600mah packs perfectly:) They work out at £5.50 posted on eBay but I'll do them for £4.50 all-in if bought through the forum. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/224731116363?mkevt=1&mkcid=16&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0

I'll be interested to hear your thoughts comparing it to other crawlers. I don't really have much for comparison.

Thanks for the tips mate i'll get some flat heads ordered. Yeah although I haven't run it yet the shocks didn't seem very good to me so will take a look at them.

Not unless I go a bit more quackers than I already am !!! 🤣

I've got a Vantage 2.0 coming next week so I'll run it on 2S for a couple of weeks before swapping-out the Brushed electrics for the Brushless gear in my Outlaw. I best start getting my arse in to gear by reading this thread. Cheers All, Andrew

Run-8 today: I read somewhere on this forum that the easiest way to destroy a buggy was to take it to the BMX track.......so that's what I did. "How hard can it be", I said. I've now bent the sway bar, broken the right upper sway bar link, chipped a bit off the rear right frame, cracked the bodyshell and cracked the mount which usually holds the spare tyre. I'm just pleased I like fixing stuff. Give me a few days and I'll be back at the BMX track for take-2.

That printed piece looks incredible. Almost looks Aluminium!

More bits went onto the TRX4 build but I have had to take one fairly key bit (a bodged on offset body mount) off because of a clash with the motor. So still a fair way to go before this one is ready for the trails.

Have also put the rock sliders, diff lock servos, battery tray and rx box onto the chassis now. It’s looking a lot like I should be able to use the mounting slots in the stock rock sliders to capture the side panels of the prairie wolf body if I trim it in the right place. This is a nice surprise as, so far, it looks like it is going to fit on much better than I ever thought it would. Just need to get some quality time with the scissors now to properly trim it and do final fit checks. The diff lock servos went onto the chassis fine but it looks like their home position isn’t in a brilliant place for the provided actuation cable lengths. I think this would put a lot of stress on the servos if left like this (as the springs in the servo savers would be applying a constant force to the motor) which isn’t brilliant for their expected longevity. Hopefully I can sort this out by adjusting their end point settings once I have my receiver in and FS-GT5 transmitter paired. At this point I’ve gone with putting the RX box in back to front so that I can avoid having to extend the wires from my steering servo. I haven’t found any issues with doing this yet but I haven’t finished the wiring or build; will report back in if I do find any issues with doing this. It may only be possible to put this in backwards because I’ve pushed the rock sliders as far out in their mounts as possible to fit with my body. I’ve put the standard battery tray and catch in for now but I think I will need to make some changes here soon as the main battery pack I’ll be running in this (a 3S 5200mah Goldbat hard-case pack from Amazon) too tall for this at 38mm. Will probably just take the catch off and use some Velcro straps for now but may look at new 3D printed battery tray options further down the line I also seem to be short a few m3 x 8 mm button head screws, haven’t worked out if these have been swapped for something else or if they are just missing (as I’ve not been following the build instructions in the proper order) but have ordered a few more just in case.

After looking into the whole process of owning and using airguns in Scotland for target use, I'm a bit confused. I have no criminal record at all but I have been to the doctors for anxiety in the past. It seems your criminal/medical records are looked at with regards to obtaining an airgun license (anything over 1 joule) up here. There is also a fee of £75 that is not refundable if you are refused ! To do some 10m target shooting in the garden it seems like so many hoops to jump through. Is it worth it? What do you guys think?

That sums up a lot of the RC 'scene' here in the UK. No surprise really that RC is so popular out in the US - they have a huge scene out there, with loads of different disciplines catered for. Think I'd be even more into RC than I am if i lived over there!!!

Today I’ve temporarily mounted up the kit motor so I can see if the offset body post mount does clash when used in the front of the van. Unfortunately it does, so I will still need to work out a solution to the mounting for the front of the body shell. I suspect what I will do with this is to 3D print a bracket that clips onto the motor and engages with the upper sections of the offset body post mount. I can then trim off the bits that clash with the motor and hopefully keep something that is structurally sound when it's all fixed together. It is a bit of a shame though as this will slow the build down a fair bit as I still don’t have the final motor I’m intending to use so might take a while to get a new bracket designed (unless I put a variant together for the traxxas motor too?) The alternative would be to try and design a new body post mount that attaches in the same way as the official part but sits nicely with the motor, I'm not 100% sure if a purely 3D printed part would be strong enough for this though. If anyone has any experience of making crawler parts like this it would be good to hear of your experience (both good and bad)

Couple of things (from a novice) I greased the diffs with just standard car (full size) grease. Didn't realise there were clear stickers on the wheels, keep them on for better protection ! I pulled them off like a clown !

Yeah you’re probably right if I’d of wanted one I’d have one and upgraded by now maybe I’m better of sticking to the large scale stuff seems to be where the fun is for me the most. It’s not like I can hit the skatepark anymore it’s been demolished now 😂. Was a thought but it’s soon gone 😂👍

It tends to hang up fairly easily. You can help it along a little by flipping these bolts and fitted flat head screws Before After The stock shocks need work. After much trial and error I found filing a flat in the piston worked, though I went too far and to up the shock oil weight to 45wt. I'm super happy with how it performs now 🙂

Strange how its in peoples hands in Europe and only now on Traxxas’ site https://m.traxxas.com/products/landing/maxx/ The Americans are spitting feathers on their forum 😂

Sorry, it got past my bed time😀. have ordered a few bits direct from LC, usually arrive within a couple weeks

The LC Racing EMB-MT wheels and tyres are the same size and offset as the Truggy wheels, and have a tread pattern suspiciously similar to the proline trenchers you linked above. https://dms-racing.com/spare-parts/lc-racing-spares/lc-racing-emb-mt-spares/pre-mounted-monster-truck-tyres-on-black-wheels-pr-emb-mt-detail If you’re just bashing about I think they are a pretty good option as they seem to have reasonable grip and have a little extra squish over the normal truggy wheels (they have slightly smaller rims) to help soak up some of the bumps.

i completely forgot that shell, i have that in my bookmark 😄 cheers mate, looks like am sorted now for wheels and shell. next mission is to try make this thing look neater.

i feel confident the glitch buster will sort it all out. when that first happened to me, i was quite frustrated too but this forum has helped me out 🙂

Many thanks for the top tip The not-so-funny thing is that I've just adjusted the seal so that it's fully airtight now so I best sort that out asap.

I have the Emb1 buggy and run a Turnigy Nana tech 3s 2200mah, just had to trim the outsite tabs off the tray, have since removed the tray and am now using a Puretec racing velro strap, hold very well.

Made a front bumper for my Hyper 7. Made from some 4mm thick black acetal. A bit rough, but will give some bashing protection. Gonna make a neater version when i pick up a new jigsaw and find my detail belt sander.

Good location shouts! I'll certainly be in touch we can plan together. 🙂 Just 1 day, I was thinking of keeping it casual, 10am start, finish early afternoon, 3-4 hour crawl. Can have a bit of fun without it becoming too much of a long drawn out day, especially those who might travel far.

Nice review, thanks mate. I'm really interested to see how you get on with the 2S and 3S fitment and the performance at 3S, incl the rear and tear on the drivetrain. God luck with the weather ;-) Thanks again, Andrew

I made this RC buggy 1/10. In the first I designed it in 3d and then a I constructed it with the waterjet technology and 3d printing. As well there wa a lot of more work on that. you can check my build here: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC_MMUGW5Gysxx5y6vtRii-w

Holy crap….. same colour as my old 1:1 disco, best start begging the wife and mother for Christmas….

So, sat in my lodge in center parcs, I decided to give my new hobao dc1 a go round the trails. Was bored within minutes! Think I've realised crawling ain't for me !!

Won't get rc stuff. Never do. Family don't see it as worth getting. So it's the usual crap I won't use or want. Only thing I'd really like this year. Is the ability to go out by myself again and not have to rely on others. Sucks that I can't just get the rc out without arranging someone to go with me.

Sad news Just heard Robbie Shakespeare has passed.