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A few upgrades have gone into it, the brushless system, new servo, linkages, tyres, rx, bell crank bearings and now the body. Some eye candy, and an undressed shot for you all before I beat it ragged [emoji23] . Sent from my P9000 using Tapatalk

Trying to soldier some battery connectors, bit cold in the mancave so into the kitchen I went. Soldering iron + worktop + burn mark = domestic when she get home [emoji22] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Those that have actually got their hands on one as opposed to those who haven’t actually had a go with one do seem to be impressed by just how capable it is. One other free thing that’s worth doing is removing the front hinge on the body. Much easier to just drop the body on and of course no body to get in the way while working on it. John

I have tons and tons of thunder tiger stuff that is up for grabs there is so much here around £10k's worth and i need to sell it, everything is brand new it's been sat around for 6-9 months and i just havent had the time to go through any of it, there is probably about 1000 lines approx Some Notable Items: PD6731 Aluminium Servo Mount Set (£69 Retail) PD6590-S Aluminum 3 Spoke Wheels For Motorbike (£39 retail) i think there is a couple and a black one in there but may have sold them already PD9188 CFRP Chassis TAEB (£71 on Ebay) PD8118 MT12 Clear Bodies x2 (£15 Retail) PD7722 Aluminium Steering Block set (For tomahawk £35 Retail) Lots of other alloy bits including 1/10th shocks some chassis, motorbike rims and brakes and wheel weights various graphite and carbon parts for S2/S3/S4 Diff casings/ Bevel Gears, Spur Gears Decal Sheets Drive shaft sets theres probably enough here to build a few whole cars Are there and specific item numbers you are looking to get hold of? please pm me and i can dig through it all and see what i can find All prices given will include postage and fees if you would to purchase it all i would like to say £3000 for the lot all in to get rid of it quick, lost of profit for someone willing to invest a lot of time into it Image Above: Thunder Tider PD1940 x5 Thunder Tiger PD1990 x3 Thunder Tiger PD1991 x15 Thunder Tiger PD1992 x10 Thunder Tiger PD1842-S x5 Thunder Tiger PD1482-R x1 Thunder Tiger PD2312-R x2 Thunder Tiger PD1602 x2 Thunder Tiger PD6728 x2 Thunder Tiger PD7717 x1 Thunder Tiger PD1863 x1 Thunder Tiger PD9143 x1 I am compiling a spread sheet for all of the thunder tiger items i have, take a look https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/14rMCXIygqeLTBDBMCMdK_gtaGDEfQlXYzMgoFp0skZY/edit?usp=sharing everything is on row O Right now

Did some work starting to tidy this up. Old cars always have challenges, this certainly wasn’t (isn’t) short of a few. Looks a lot better now I’ve sorted some of them out. Brakes should work now rather being bound up, proper foam filter, bashed it to straighten it up, replaced some of the rusty fixings, shimed the drivetrain to name a few of the jobs! Got some parts on order which will freshen it up further. Gave it a quick wash and brush up whilst fixing things!

Tart Looks good

if its in one piece/good shape then reuse it imo....

Proline Pro MT 4x4 ordered, now the waiting game begins.....

Is the slipper clutch ok ? if it's set to loose or the pads are worn/contaminated that could explain it

All rc have there place, but a sweet running nitro is the best

Hi folks. I've been given a body to repaint. I can't say I'm great at it, but I have to admit I can't do much worse than is already there. With all respect to the chap, it looks like he's used chewing gum for masking and a cement mixer hose to apply the paint. Now, during my learning process I found out you can't use Isopropyl, remove the paint it may, but it also tries to eat through the Lexan. I have a chum with a shot blasting machine with a paint removal medium, some kind of nut husk I believe, but he lives too far away to be useful. (Friends eh!) So, is there a Lexan friendly chemical that will remove acrylic paint? Actually, I'm not sure this is Lexan, it's quite thick material at one end really thin at the other, it reminds me of the Yeit body with a thick bonnet and thin back end. But I'm no plastic expert so I have no idea. I have been given the option of painting the outside of the body, which I don't mind doing, but I'd sooner do the job properly if I can. Cheers.

FMS 1042MM RED BAE HAWK 80MM EDF ARTF W/O TX/RX/BATT The British Red Arrows, known as the Royal Air Force Aerobatic Team, is the official display team of the RAF and based at RAF Scampton. The team was formed in late 1964 as an all-RAF team and initially equipped with Foland Gnat trainers inherited from the RAF Yellowjacks display team. The switch to the BAE Systems Hawk T1 weapons trainer came in 1980 and has since performed with distinction at locations around the globe. Honoring the 50th display season celebration, FMS has created a brilliant replica for the popular 80mm EDF class. Beautifully finished in vibrant red and striking white trim, the outline of the BAE Systems marvel is unmistakable with detail that features a well-appointed cockpit, an array of intake scoops, antenna, bright LED lighting, scale sub-fins and a removable ferry tank. The remarkable undercarriage includes reliable electric movement with durable metal CNC-construction, shock-absorbing actuation with scissor linkages—all neatly concealed with automatic gear door enclosures. The 80mm BAE Hawk flight controls are full-featured including functional flaps that help you make takeoffs shorter and landings as slow as possible. All seven control surfaces plus the nose wheel are individually linked with a dedicated metal-gear micro servo. You’ll also appreciate the precision and adjustability of ball-link equipped linkages for initial setup and perhaps later on if flight trimming is necessary. The FMS 80mm BAE Hawk features a rigid one-piece wing that easily bolts to the fuselage, as do the horizontal stabilizers and vertical tail—no glue required which makes basic assembly super-fast. Of course the lightweight construction with EPO means you can count on a high-level of durability, intricate surface detail and a light wing loading that translates naturally into incredible flight performance. The water-based paint used to finish this model minimizes blistering from sun and provides a vibrant appearance. The power system utilizes a powerful 80mm 12-blade EDF system driven by a 3270-size, 1930Kv brushless motor and 100A ESC combination for tremendous acceleration and speed when coupled with your high-C, 6S LiPo battery. If you want to make every outing to the field an airshow to remember, then the FMS 80mm BAE Hawk is a must-have. FMS BAE Hawk Features: Easy (six-screw) bolt-together assembly-no glue required 80mm EDF with a brushless 3270-size, 1930Kv inrunner motor High-quality Predator 100A ESC with 8A BEC Durable, all-metal shock absorbing electric retracts 12-blade EDF sound delivers an enhanced jet experience 6-Channel control with functional flaps and steerable nose wheel Metal-gear servos provide precision and reliability Removable one-piece wing with optional ferry tank New ball-style control horns and linkages for greater precision Brilliant LED lighting system installed Vivid trim scheme with environmentally friendly water-based paint Spec Check: Wingspan: 1042mm /41.0 in Flying Weight: Around 2500g Motor Size: 3270-KV1930 inner running ESC: 100A with 8A BEC Recommended Battery: 6S 4000mAh 35C Landing Gear: Grass Ready Shock Absorbing Metal Landing Gear Requires TX/RX/Battery/Charger Available now from cml, priced at £400 View full news article

Been glueing the tyres up tonight! Just the body now!

Hey all! Quick question for ya, is there a big power difference between the Rovan. 36cc 4bolt and the Zenoah G34? Hope someone can shed some light on this.. Thanks!

Is the rovan mill the one with the enclosed ports?? They term them ' high power ' I'll assume it is......if the option is there...zenoah everytime

Rover Man has also pointed out its got a very nice viscous diff in it too! Nice little Brucie bonus there! https://rc-car-online.de/en/products/fg_8604-8604-fg-viscous-differential.html

LOL, almost as much bling as on an AJ build! I wonder if he’d want to buy it?

Tooo generous by far! Swap you for you Leopard?

looks rough as, Ill give ya 100 quid for it just to help you out

I like healthy debates I do see your p.o.v dude..... We each (everyone) apply the same term to something slightly different to convey the same thing in essence..... I guess that wraps up your question @TMaxxDaveTMaxxDave Could of summed it up with the quote "you say tomato, I say tomato" Self replicating originality....I know a few people who could use some of that for their sense of humor.... Possibly me included

Just looking for affirmation really as I can see no real drawbacks. I want to charge a 12 V 50 AH battery with an Overlander RC6-VSP charger . This has a Pb setting . Although the unit will do 7A i will set it at a more conservative 5A (1/10C). Alternator wasn't charging the battery, alternator is now changed(or rather is in the process of being changed for a refurb unit), so can't see this being a regular thing (indeed hope it's a one off), so don't want to buy a dedicated full-size battery charger. If I knew the neighbours better would probably just get a jump start, but 'as is' I am pretty much on my own. This seem OK to others or are there gotchas that I haven't thought of?

More built in a garage in east LA. John

Oh dear. The Tamiya bug has biten me hard. Too many hours sat in various hospital waiting rooms seems to have lead to me buying a 3rd Tamiya truck.

The front end - overhang, bumper etc look all wrong to me... But what do I know about trail crawlers...

A set of Maverick ION MT wheels from @Andy20xe

As far as RC planes are concerned taking off isn’t the worry. It’s the other bit. John

Yea it was the slipper clutch thanks. Zdos123 OUT

I'd put money on slipper clutch. They normally make a scene when they are slightly lose.

jus reverse the servo on the screen

Is the motor spinning quickly, but the Carnage isn't moving much? Check for loose or missing grub screws. Check all gear meshing. Check driveshafts. If things are spinning, check at which point it no longer moves quickly - could even be a loose wheel nut or 2. Al.

Wouldn't have said I was as good as mediocre mate hahaha

wpuld def lookbetter with sumblack outlines dude

Nice work, always wanted to try airbrush.......give that mediocre @Sharkfat78 a run for his money.... Now where's my Crayola blow pens... Not sure I would opt for a black iron cross on a non military vehicle though...

Nothing makes you smile more than a well tuned nitro. Yes they are a pain but once you have learned how to tune then it's fairly simple. You will also find you can get a tune that needs a slight tweak but will start and run every time. I bash with some brush less boys and I love to watch them go home when they are out of batteries and I've still got half a gallon of fuel to go, also I can refuel running so very little time out. Stick at it, watch some tuning videos and try running when it's a bit warmer out. Nitro is hard work below 10c.

this is y I left nitro and went brushless.....yes I did have a year of fun with my nitro hyper7... but it got to a point and I got fed up of it so did a conversion........and I haven't looked back ..... same car.....jus with out the hassles..........I love any thing with a engine.....cars..bikes......but trying to run nitro successfully is a fine art......which I could never acquire.....

The latest Lunchie installment from our friend Mr. Wylie. Enjoy

If you've replaced the servo then perhaps you have not centred it when you put the servo arm back on, usually the arm is at 90 at neutral. Have you adjusted the carb needles yet? They will be set to run rich from factory so probably need to lean the HSN.

........jus because its cheaper dude don't mean its gonna run any easier.....no matter what a nitro costs it will give u headache....could b the cheapest hsp...or the dearest mugen racer ......FACT!!...runs perfect one day...nx day u blow 3x glow plugs in a row..........ho the joys of nitro.....

Since you have changed parts you may have some problems with a warranty claim. Depends how good your local shop is. From your 2 problems the cutting out is purely down to tune, there is no magic tune, it varies day by day hour by hour, this is what puts a lot of people off nitro. The second problem sounds like the throttle and brake linkage needs adjusting after your servo change. If you decide to have another go at it adjust everything with radio and reciver powered up so it roll freely and the servo gives full travel in throttle and brake without binding. Then re set to factory needles, run up to temperature and very slowly lean out the HSN no more than 1/8 turn at a time doing a couple of runs after each adjustment. There is loads of good advice on tuning on here and YouTube.

Go brushless mate less messing more playing

You never stop at one. My next is another American but that's because I work on Swedish Ford's erm I mean Scania every day and can't stand to look at one on the shelf every day. Was going to get a Merc but found a good offer on a kit so decision was made for me.

Try taking it back to modelshop near you they should help? If not try using this: https://www.rcnitrotalk.com/forum/threads/nitro-tuning-tips-and-tuning-flow-chart.60832/ the flow chart is very helpful

Made the most of the snow yesterday and had a great time drifting around the snowy woods. Perfect setting for rc rally lovers. I hope you all enjoy watching. Credit to my 5yr old son for the camera work & commentary Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk

Few shots from the snow run yesterday. Dad was clearly bored at some point! My guards did there job. One of my favourites of my SCX10. Then the clouds rolled in! Never mind, winch time! Bash even your crawlers!

That's much better. I don't like the skull either. Will that paint come off when it rolls?

Not quite true The outlaw and others like it are loosely based on Ultra4 racers which are dedicated offroad vehicles. The full size versions will go pretty much anywhere a dedicated crawler will but are much quicker.

Ordered a load of spares today! Fuel pipe glow plug igniter glow plug spanner new bolts and washers Battery holder battery supply on/off switch Air filter Fuel filter Fuel A spare engine complete with ancillaries (old engine needs a pull start £20, got the whole lot, filter, carb, engine, glow plug, pull start fuel tank, exhaust etc £35..) Some cleaning fluid Filter oil and after run oil See if I can rebuild this buggy and get it running

Philosophicaly or actually? If actually, as soon as you replace anything supplied originally (IMHO) Philosophically, people have been pondering this question since ancient Greek times. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ship_of_Theseus Includes a reference to Trgger's brush. This paradox was known as Queen Mary's axe in my family