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I'm definitely going for more power then

Thank Neil! Yes, it's on a little cheap tripod. I can't use a dual stick controller, so filming and driving an rc are way out of my skill set!

@yoodoo I think I still have the list of things Phil does to the rifle, if I can find it I'll post it up but I would say it's well worth the money for what he does. Hoping to get the HW97 out Friday so I'll post up how I get on with it.

I didnt. Marc had it done before i bought the rifle from him. But Tench regulator and tune Short stroke hammer Reinforced breech

ooh....i wonder what this can b....

Never realised you needed to be 25+ to buy chocolates (Spotted in Sainsburys this morning)

The hole and metal tab on the back is a heatsink. so if it gets hot in use you can screw it into a bigger metal heatsink to keep it cool and working properly

I think froggy is having the CNC rear hubs, but if it falls through I'll give you a shout. most of the duplicate bits are the Pro 7075 / CNC stuff, never bought much of the CF bits, as the buggy was (and still is) just a basher, so weight not much of a concern to me - just as well with a H7...

@yoodoo this is what Phil did to my R10 (now Rover Mans) The tune includes the following: The rifle is stripped down to its component parts; they are inspected for any wear and overall quality. In most cases parts can be machined or replaced if needed, and are not charged for. The rifle is worked through as follows: Hammer mechanism • Ensure the assembly is free of any oil, grease or debris which can cause consistency issues • Re-finish hammer spring to a higher accuracy • Polish the bearing surfaces in the hammer • Hammer latch pin modified for use with new banjo pin • Fit PTFE slip disk • Custom made hammer weight & guide to minimise hammer noise & decrease strike time • Generally to benefit the rifle further the hammer replaced or modified. • When being Tench regulated SE models have a new hammer weight fitted which “short strokes” the rifle. Loading assembly • Loading probe modified for better airflow, pellet feed and smoothness • Bearing surfaces polished • On older models the probes are modified to prevent issues when cocking with the modified latch pin • Probe guide and pellet tray are modified for smoother loading and to reduce pellet fussiness • Cocking is modified on early models to remove the need to pull the bolt back further when loading a magazine if requested • If you include the magazine in with your rifle they are also modified to remove any loading issues such as jamming whilst cycling • The magazine locating pin is modified to give a smoother movement • Lubricant is added to parts of the assembly to allow a smoother action • Bolt lock up mechanism is modified for more responsive and smoother movement, also increasing the rifles consistency. • Bolt flip upon firing is removed or reduced with addition of a new banjo pin Exhaust valve, transfer port & barrel • The exhaust valve stem assembly is modified to run more efficiently • Valve is refaced and modified for a faster flow • Valve body is modified for better airflow through the firing cycle increasing efficiency • The valve pressure is reset to give a better performance between heavy and lighter pellets • The transfer port is modified to give a higher degree of air flow efficiency • Breech face modified to reduce wear on the pellet when loading • Crown of the barrel re-cut the to increase the rifles accuracy • Transfer port and barrel are aligned correctly • Barrel is secured into the breech more accurately and securely than standard Trigger assembly • Sears are polished to a smoother finish • Hammer latch pin polished & refaced • Trigger pin assembly is reinforced to reduce movement from left to right • Trigger let-off is set to a comfortable and safe amount. • 1st stage travel can be reduced beyond standard adjustment at request • Safety mechanism modified to give an easier movement & reduce noise Some parts may be chargeable although I do replace many damaged parts for free as standard. O-ring seals are replaced as standard throughout the rifle and refitted with the correct lubrication. New ideas are developed constantly and are added over time. I now no longer work with the factory regulator in R-10’s in any way and replace the unit entirely with a Tench Regulator, which have been proven over many years to perform fantastically in BSA’s, giving performance far beyond the standard regulator, with a higher shot count and better shot to shot performance. In terms of target shooting you may find that having a short stroke hammer will help (£35), it reduces the lock time of the rifle which reduces any chance of your 'wobble' being able to affect the pellet as it leaves the rifle, the quicker that happens the less effect it will suffer. It makes the R-10 feel much more snappy to shoot, and gives a nice crisp crack to the muzzle report. We also do a reinforced breech bolt (£10) which reduces action flex, which keeps the breech more stable during the firing cycle so your accuracy improves.

Will second that @t2boats those FTX tyres are pretty good to be fair! i run them on my outbrat with 110g in the front and they do a fab job.

Yea I agree the base car is nicely setup, completely different to my other cars but seems to eat up anything you ask of it. My servo is behaving for now thankfully! Haven’t tried the sensored motor yet as I return to the car park and snapped both trailing arms on a kurb Ordered more plastic ones tho as they are cheap and nothing else failed so I’ll treat them as throw away parts tbh. If I went ally I reckon another part or possibly even the chassis would have taken the brunt of the impact! Fitted some cheap lights the other which look sweet tho...

Use the stock FTX Outback tyres on various sets of 1.9" alloy bead's, proved themselves very well indeed. Also have a set of Super-Swampers on 1.9", and a few odd cheapy sets on other 1.9" bead's which I haven't tried that much to be fair. But I find I keep coming back to the soft stock FTX tyres. The Super Swampers I find are equally as good.

It certainly is iconic - the Grasshopper may have been the more common model, but the Hornet was the one kids lusted after. Looks like an original issue too!

Hi nikki i use a steering wheel controller and I can just about steer it using my left thumb thinking about putting a old RC tyre on the steering wheel neil

Nice little video that lunchie looks like a right laugh too!

Cracking video nikki was the camera on a tripod has I find it hard to drive the car and video at the same time

I did

well i already got 1984..the grasshopper...but this is probably the most iconic tamiya model ever imo.........so i got one

I’m sending both my AA off after Xmas for a tune & regulator, there is a lot of positives to sending it into the RaT works, I just want all my rifles here for Xmas as the range is open while I’m off.

If you post on here the pin to pin & ball size. Someone's bound to chip in.

Put up some pic all

Heres mine in 177 flavour.....................

Right then , guess what I'm asking Santa for. J

The regulator needs a certain pressure to work (Phil said 100bar) once it drops below that then you lose power, above that pressure you will get a consistent power.... Phil generally sets all his rifles to around 11.5ft/lb

You absolutely have to try the Kraken!

Jim beam red stag & jack daniels honeys lush

Jura or Oban.

Very nice indeed been contemplating wether to get these or not for a while now, I’ll be interested to see your findings once you have chance to use them

The wires for that chip go into the esc right where the wires go for the rx so must be linked to that, glitch buster/voltage stabiliser etc, it was ust the hole on the metal bit that confused me (thought it may have been some kind of earth like in real cars) as its set into the esc it looks factory not botched so you are most probably right Gaz. As for the hole it must be just to secure it so it does not flap about.

Well I blew the dust of this mp777, added an old bashing shell from a T.tiger MTA MT and its ready for the kids to have a bash tomorrow! At least when, not if, they roll it, it won't matter....I would say when it breaks but boy! It was a nightmare to just cut 1 hole at the rear it was so thick and tough....it'll need to be...

@Arron421 yep - that's certainly shifting in that video!! Makes my measly 48mph seem static (29cc with 19/55 gearing) its top end on mine is a little spluttery though, so all it needs a slight tweak on the HSN and it should crack 50mph hopefully....

Pics @Glencmp ?? A pic often saves all the guess work!

if the whole show is metal, that's how they're supposed to be. If they're plastic, they've picked up some of the bell. Is the bell aluminium? I've never seen any clutch shoes with asbestosy stuff on em.i ruffed up the inside of the inside of the bell on my xmaxx. It made the bell pop off the e clip that holds it on. :/

P.s answer rc do some amazing value clutch kits, including velocity v2 flywheel, three high bite alloy shoes, and three different compound sets of springs for around £20

Well at least you've eliminated the clutch. If you've got good pinch at tdc then you should have useable compression. And lastly no, your clutch shoes are not faced with a pad material, they are either alloy, or plastic ones. Are the shoes themselves worn?? As collective itch suggests? If you've smoothed off the face off the shoes and smoothed the bell lining, it could simply be slipping without any erroneous oils etc etc Try scuffing up your shoe s with some 80's grit and also obviously the clutch bell lining....a dremel is great for this!

Lipos sold pending payment.

No need for any embarrassment here dude. I did it myself many years back...making mistakes is part of the learning process after all! Glad to help...maybe you could start a build thread on it so others may benefit from your adventures

Once it's off. Just clean it with hot water & washing up liquid. The bell, shoes springs , everything. Including the shaft it goes on & pins the shoes & springs go on. It can be a right arse to get it all back together. I oiled my clutch ages ago. I took the flywheel off & washed it all without taking it all to pieces. I'd experienced the ballache of rebuilding a clutch without a clutch tool before

if u aint got them then yes...these r essential upgrades for any fg........

I'm so glad that my write up here has made impact as not only the KM Baja is superb Rcmodelz are also brilliant - 10/10 for both in my opinion. Happy Bashing all and have a great xmas and new years

Just came across this and have to say it’s a great write up. i have spent weeks being torn in my decision between the KM002 and the maverick blackout, but due to this write up and an earlier visit to my local large scale shop MMR Large Scale I have been swayed towards the KM002. The availability and options around Baja spares/hop-ups have made the Baja a very promising start into large scale after years in smaller nitro models. Cheers.

Hpi savage not mine but for my daughter

next time i'll just stick a picture of a dog bone up there lol... u can guess the rest cheers for the help

a few parts...................

Cheers for the info mate Took it down a local frosty car park tonight and was hammering it with the VXL setup using the 17t pinion and the motor got warm but not too hot on 2S. That’s really gunning it and flatout runs up and down the car park with some donut and drifting on the frost for good measure! I think on 3S it would have been too much tbh, VXL is 3500kv but was rapid enough. I might gear up to the 23t and see how it goes. Last time I ran the 23t I destroyed the spur at the pin not the teeth! Defo need to have a crack at that sway bar mod as it was waving the front wheel when you buried the throttle I may leave the VXL in there for now, picked up a cheap Trackstar 13.5t sensored motor which I’ll have a go with just to see the comparison. As my VXL 3S ESC is the older model it’s got a sensored mode too so can at least try it. Sure I’ll find a use for it somewhere if I prefer the VXL motor. I’ve got 17kg servo in mine now and agree it’s vastly improved over the stock one. What started as a cheap used impulse buy is quickly becoming my favourite car!

Do the indicators work ????

Trench warfare

I wanted another full size one but I see they no longer sell them! I normally use Turnigy nano tech for my rc's Hopefully the new motor just as good Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk