300bhp/ton

Thanks, yes that is helpful and is kinda of what I thought it should do. I'll see if I can get a timed run, but it 'feels' more like 7-9 mins.

Some runs have been mostly high gear on a concrete yard sort of speed bashing, but some crawling and use of low for these runs. Other runs have been on long grass in a field, mostly high. And then some long grass/hills in low and high. Run times have felt comparable in all situations though. Yes, cells are balanced charged. Pretty sure it is the EVX2 as it was only bought middle of Dec '21, so should have been latest variant. I understand how the cells are wired, but pumping out 14.8v means it should need less amps. I know it is quite big and heavy with big tyres. I just expected comparable runtimes to some of my other RC's and it seems to be more like 40-50%. Despite having way more Wh (aka 'energy') on board.

Thanks, will have to check next time out with it. I'd guess it is slow, maybe .5-1 sec intervals.

Correct, as I said. I've not timed it as of yet. But running it side by side in long grass the Konghead with a 10.5T brushless and a 4000mAh 2S LiPo got about double the runtime. I'd guess the Konghead was around the 15 min mark.

Can anyone suggest what sort of runtimes I should expect on a new Traxxas Summit? Vehicle is brand new and 100% stock. Haven't run it loads. First couple of runs I didn't notice it, or it ran long enough that it didn't bother me. But since then it feels like runtimes are pretty short. Have run it on mixed surfaces and driving styles. Although I've not had chance to time it as of yet. But compared to my other RC's the run time feels very short. Is this normal for these? I thought with 2 x batteries the runtime would be pretty immense on it. I've even been and bought some new LiPos to rule out it being a battery issue. But the runtime has remained about the same. I have a pair of TrackStar 5600mAh LiPos (70/140c). I run these in my 1/8th Arrma RaiderXL brushless, 1/8th 4wd Carisma Porsche 959, 10.5T Tamiya Konghead and some others. Runtime is great in these models. New batteries are a pair of Zeee 5200mAh (80c). Which I'd have thought should be plenty for a stock brushed Summit. When running the model will be really punchy and run fine for a while. Then suddenly feel like it hits a wall. I'm guessing the ESC might be limiting performance. I'm pretty sure the ESC is in the LiPo mode on switch on. But it displays a flashing red light once it starts to run slow. You can run it in this slow mode and it feels consistent, but no fun. On the last run with the TrackStars they are showing 3.90/3.88v on one pack and 3.92/3.94v on the other. The Zeee's are showing 3.71/3.72v and 3.72/3.73v on the other, but I did run these longer in the go-slow mode.

This is a great question, but not one I've ever been able to find a true answer too. As for standardising, it sounds good in principle, but realty tends to not always agree. But to the motor question. Let's assume a 1/10th 2wd buggy. Would an 8.5T brushless on 2S out perform a 13.5T on 3S? I honestly don't know the answer. I kind of suspect increasing voltage is an easy way of increasing performance (assuming your setup would support it).

Higher top speed, but it will be setup dependent as it might blunt acceleration, but more likely make the motor and/or ESC run hot.

There really isn't one answer for this. Suspension tuning is somewhat of a black art. Assuming the surface is smooth and grippy and you have tyres that grip well. Then a stiffer lower riding setup may well work well. But too low and you'll ground out and too stiff and it'll bounce about. But suspension is more than just oil. The shock valving also plays a part, i.e. you could have a heavy oil with open valving or light oil and narrow valving and achieve similar results. But there can be differences in how quickly the shock will react and how it response on rebound may also vary. Tuning the jounce rate can make a big difference. Springs will also play a part in this. And lastly body roll can be controlled by other means such as anti roll bars, roll centre and ride height. Before you even get to touching the shock oil or springs. Personally I'd try and identify the traits you are not liking or one that you feel need improving and look at what options you can take to address them. For instance shocks more laydown will generally offer less resistance than more up right. If you can change the shock position on the A-arms of shock towers, you may want to play about with this and see what impact it has on the vehicle. Likewise with shock oil, the only way you will really know is by trying it out.

This is the thing. I have a few Tamiya's and while they are stopped, they often come back. So by and large a reasonably safe bet I think. I've also just bought a Traxxas Summit, which I know is an 'old' model and only brushed, as well as expensive. But I feel more secure in the investment, that parts will be available longer. I was very interested in the Axial Ryft. But it is expensive if in 2-3 years time you can't get bits for it.

Just wondering what the general consensus is (if there is such a thing) on RC model ownership? I know there are some people that are very hard on items they buy and probably have a disposable attitude to their purchase, such as throw it away when it breaks. But I suspect most of us fall into one of two camps: -buy to keep -buy with the intent of selling on in fairly short time Personally I tend to buy to keep. Because I don't really buy things that I intend to sell or didn't really want. But I do find that RC car makers simply don't support their products for long enough, which becomes a bit frustrating. For example, in the last few years I've bought these: -1/8th scale Carisma Porsche 959 -1/10th scale Turnigy (Hobbyking) Shortcourse Truck/Desert Buggy -1/10th scale BSR Racing M.Rage M-chassis AWD -1/8th Arrrma RaiderXL BLX All of them are good models. But now there seems to be no parts supply for any of them --- WTF??? It seems such a waste to sell them, but running them comes with the risk that they may only be fit for the rubbish bin if you end up breaking something. Anyone else find this extremely annoying!

I'd ditch the Tamiya connectors. They normally cause issues and are no good for high current applications. Deans are ok, sometimes a little fiddly to pull apart and cheap 3rd party ones melt easily when soldering. The newer revised casing design is an improvement. Personally I like the XT60 connectors. You should be able to mail order new connectors and get them in a day or so. Can you solder? If not, very worth while learning, it will solve your plug issues.... as you'll be able to swap them over to whatever you want. 🙂

It all kinda depends. As it looks like you are looking at a used purchase. If so, what does it come with? As for getting into the hobby, are you planning on racing? Where will you be using it?

Tried selling on here a couple of times, but no takers. Is there a facebook group you'd suggest? Thanks.

Thanks, it says it is a crawler ESC, would this still be fine for bashing about and high speed?

I still have a load of brushed motors, some brand new and sealed and others only mildly used. I know brushless is the way these days, but it seems a shame not to be able to make use of these. I still run one of these in my Tamiya Lunchbox with a now 'classic' Novak Tempest ESC in. I have a couple of LRP ESC's too. They can all handle 2S LiPo in theory, although I've had issues with the LRPs in the past. But the biggest issue is, none of them have low voltage protection. I know you can put the little alarms on the balance lead of the LiPo, but it'd be nicer to not worry. Also something more waterproof would be a bonus too. Most brushed ESC's seem to have very limiting motor turn limits. Are there any high performance ones still available? I think the brushed Traxxas models use 12Turn motors, but don't know how much current they really pull. I also hate to think what these would cost either. It just seems such a waste not to be able to use these.... Most are 11 Turn motors, but a couple of 10's, a 12 and even a 9x2. They are ideal in many 1/10th buggies and give very good performance when comparing to a 10.5-13.5T brushless motors on 2S.