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Showing content with the highest reputation on 31/05/16 in all areas

  1. Vaz from Aussie rc says the diffs are grease filled and can not be oil filled its not a big deal but I think I'll go with the MTe especially with freeprawn stocking them
    2 points
  2. Haven't broke any thing other than shock shaft yet,maybe I need to bash harder, or it might be my excellent driving skills lol
    2 points
  3. Hi all pick up Romford Essex only £880 no offers (this still has warranty as was brought Jan this year) the engine will not be covered as its a upgraded one. I have a losi 5ive T in as new condition as only been used twice as you can see from the photos. The engine after was upgraded after a few times of use as he wanted it faster so he put a G320RC 32cc zenoah which I have just finshed run in so only 2 1/2 tanks has gone through it so far. I have added a spektrum DX4S as the losi has a super killer bee killswitch and needs a 3rd Chanel. I have also just replaced the exhaust for a brand new tunes on which turned up today. The shell has never been used as you can see. Here is what has been done. Upgraded zenoah 32cc engine Rear Skid plate Dx4s with a sr310 receiver or a AVC receiver but AVC is not great on in these so will let you choose Upgraded orange springs Quick release fuel pipe clips Super killer bee kill switch with speaker Brand new tuned exhaust This is a great price so please don't try and bid me down. I am willing to take a part X towards this losi like a baja but what ever it is needs to be in good condition please.
    1 point
  4. So ive put the shocks on their lowest point and re fitted the 1.55's although it crawls better over obstacles with the 1.9's it is top heavy again due to a higher center of gravity. If i find it is functional with the current set up i can look at more road rover style designs for my next body and forget about the sdi fenders. Few idea's, the missus likes the idea of the metallic red ones, im thinking go for the windows over the van style and perhaps focus on my interior too. Liking this White one (with my wheels though save buying new ones) and having black roof/ arches with the union jack/90 decals as above with black check plate? Not sure if i want to have a go at DIY puma bonnet or leave it? seen one on Ebay £60 thought! http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ONE-SET-CC-hand-New-Style-Hood-fit-RC4WD-Gelander-II-AND-land-rover-D90-D110-/162006464356?hash=item25b8567764:g:MtQAAOSwYlJW5ljY
    1 point
  5. Wrong decision! They're only bearings! You really do "only live once"! Get back out there and rag it to within an inch of its life!
    1 point
  6. Halfords is such a rip off ! I just bought a tube of silicon sealant - £5 in halfords, I got it for £2.89 delivered on ebay, same stuff. Nearly half the price!
    1 point
  7. Thanks, I'm just relieved to have the dam thing working. It's completely stock at the moment so 65 18 I think (but my memory is rubbish), it's just running 3s LiPo. I'd love to carry on and mod it, but that'll have to wait because my real car needs some love Kinda, I live in a flat above a shop. The roof is a good space for test runs and comes in handy for drying my tent if we have to pack it up in the rain. It is however no substitute for a garden, but cheap rent and reasonable distance from work. Very happy with it on 3s, it's the completely stock gearing. I need to figure out what to do LiPo wise as mine don't really fit. So that'll have to come at some point, then it'll have a decent run time and I can take it out trailing with the Summit. All said and done it's been a good adventure and I've kind of grown attached to it in the process. Just need some down time from work to take it out and try it.
    1 point
  8. It seems they might have bought HPI overall, but being as how Ripmax are first and foremost a distributor this deal may mean the end of the current HPI US to be replace by Ripmax's people. I wouldn't call Ripmax 'low end'. Their current car lineup isn't great but they have been Futaba's dealer for longer than anyone can remember including some seriously fancy radio gear. This does sound like a solid deal for RC in general.
    1 point
  9. Simply put, don't go all aluminium. Plastic has flex, ally doesn't, one bend, game over. It also adds unnecessary weight. Some parts (such as hub carriers and steering set up) can be a useful upgrade, shock towers and arms not so much... Just my twopenneth
    1 point
  10. Planned to bash the hyper on the beach in Blackpool. Charged the batteries, prepped the car, loaded everything, did what I needed to in Blackpool 1st. Got to the beach..... Decided I really couldn't be bothered to clean sand out of it. Left it in the car being all clean. Enjoyed a day in the sun instead without worrying about sand turning my bearings to dust. Sent from my iPad Air using Tapatalk
    1 point
  11. It helps keep a few more jobs here in the UK,which has got to be a good thing,well done Ripmax and HPi UK for getting it together.
    1 point
  12. Sneak peek, I used some axle extenders to get the width, Hpi Savvy Phaltlines fill the arches nice,
    1 point
  13. Love or hate HPI, this is good news for the hobby.
    1 point
  14. I like this vid so thought I'd share it here
    1 point
  15. I just used black lidl paint. Its tough as nails
    1 point
  16. i listen to the engine sound Once i've got the sound i wanna hear and i've got some smoke = me happy If i wanna double check - i'd throw a temp guage on it too Ziggy
    1 point
  17. Nice i want a set of vipers for my XCR, There great on my Baja, but baby imminent so sensible head prevailing...
    1 point
  18. Good call this truck has my interest but I doubt it will get my cash anytime soon
    1 point
  19. Perfect, I didn't see them ones
    1 point
  20. http://www.rcmodelz.co.uk/alloy-upgrade-parts/mad-max/madmax-truck-molded-inner-foams-rear-pair.html Heard good things about these. Blurb says they will be ok for a 5Five
    1 point
  21. North coast of Kent. 7 hour round trip.
    1 point
  22. Be a PITA on the train for us without a local line, it'd mean changing loads, so we'll just drive, my Dad will know somewhere to park... Being a coach driver for 30 years has it's advantages when it comes to finding places to park
    1 point
  23. I remember going to an RC expo at the NEC about 15 years ago? Anyone remember the name? it would be rude of me to not go to this been as Im in Brum!
    1 point
  24. If a hub breaks you normally don't get any other damage. But if the arm breaks the shaft or cup sometimes get damaged. So we will have to wait for damage reports once a few people are using alloy hubs
    1 point
  25. Ah yes, I see it is supplied with a 2000 mAh NiMH battery. That is pretty low capacity by today's standards. You can get far larger NiMH packs with Deans connectors, such as this one for example: http://www.modelsport.co.uk/overlander-3300mah-7.2v-sport-stick-pack-deans-/rc-car-products/383051 This will give you more runtime, but will also take longer to charge. If you are still using the charger that came with the car, you might want to consider getting a faster one otherwise charging will take hours. The write-up doesn't say anything about your ESC's LiPo compatibility or LVC, so if you wanted to go for a 2s LiPo pack instead, bear in mind that you'd want a low-voltage buzzer to let you know when to stop playing so as not to discharge your LiPo to dangerous levels. You'd also want a LiPo compatible charger as LiPos and NiMH batteries have different charge requirements.
    1 point
  26. Madbull is ordered. Look forward to another build :-) Sent from my Galaxy S5 Neo Ordered the ball bearings and the kit with a Tamiya ESC, forgot to order paint. One question I do have, what steering servo would be best? I'm running a Savox 1257tg in my Neo, which is seriously overkill for what it actually needs to be. I might have to swap out a 9kg servo from my TB-01 and stick a 3kg in the rally car until I have pennies for a Savox for the Madbull
    1 point
  27. I've bought a few Tamiya kits from Goldstar with no problems at all. Great prices on most Tamiya kits. John
    1 point
  28. This is a little out dated but it should give you the jist of how to do it.
    1 point
  29. The other is the hassle of removing / replacing bearings as well. A decent alloy hub more than replaces a cheap, cheesy plastic one if they're breaking like that. I had to press the bearings into the alloy hubs - would have been better to heat up the alloy I know - but they seem well made. I use Area RC. Al.
    1 point
  30. cool will try that instead!!! Cheers dude ?
    1 point
  31. I was interested but the reviews actually turned me off. Hopefully they'll be quick with a second generation version. I think I may go with my original plan of the Hyper MT.
    1 point
  32. Tamiya don't acknowledge the existence of brushed motors with fewer than 25 turns
    1 point
  33. xmaxx with some other rigs bashing for some comparison... good fun was had by all!
    1 point
  34. broke a fro t bulkhead yesterday on the tmaxx,so i glued it as a temporary measure while i order new ones,, i bash the tmaxx today and done a jump about 2foot big and snapped the two rear bulkheads lol,,orderd some new ones,,but going to invest in some rpm ones too,,i plan on also getting all rpm suspension arms,bodg posts and bumper set,all rpmd up lol Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    1 point
  35. Cheers @Alex97 and she flys well sweet @.AJ. always landed right way up,very cat like
    1 point
  36. No surprises there. Remember I bought a not so nice condition first generation model so I would hope that any subsequent releases are better! I've got mine as reliable as I can now, the only things km on it are the fuel tank, shocks and engine lol. Just need a s9010 or s9020 for the steering now to stop my run of savox failures.
    1 point
  37. No offence but thats about as much use as your 1st picture.... Sent from my Galaxy S5 Neo
    1 point
  38. air res tank, for a airbrush the bigger the tank the more air stored and the less the pump is engaged to build up pressure in the tank. 6lt tank will spray a 1/10th rc body in one color with a few passes/coats. Pressure gauge , you MUST have one of these, it can be fitted to the compressor tank , or the airbrush itself but its going to regulate your air pressure for spraying. we tend to run at around 12-18 psi , for large 1:1 car guns your looking at upto 40psi WATER-OIL TRAP, this is a clear bulb with a filter inside, it traps any water that forms in the tank and keeps it out of your airline and gun, the worse thing for a sprayer is oil or water entering the feed line and then into the paint and your finished product. air compressor types, for the odd body here and there you can get away with using a small nail bar compressor that female use in nail bars and likes, they are very small and compact some come with a air tank be it a small one but they are cheap and do break down. if your wanting something you can use other than just rc bodys, there is the clarke Bandit its got a large air tank and has a 1.4hp electric driven pump system, can be used to pump up your car tyres, infalte the kids paddle pool, spray the fence with cresote and run low powered finishing guns (LVLP guns ), but its not exactly small like carry around in a rucksack. but will be perfect for the modeler tahts looking to start into spraying. AIRBRUSH, skimp here and you will have problems, those cheap chinese brushes on ebay and amazon they are ok for the first couple times but they will not preform like a Badger - iwatta brush, these other brands do and can cost a heft amount of money but your getting the very best in quality and finishing. they are nothing like an aircan rattle spray, YOU MUST clean your brush after every spray job, taking it apart flushing it out and cleaning it up, you cannot just throw it in a box and it will be fine for the next weeks spray so you must keep this in mind, and use cleaning products and a very strict cleaning process , only takes a small streak of black on a needle and you end up with a gray body spary that should have been a arctic white sparkler.
    1 point
  39. Here is my SXC10 Hilux
    1 point
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