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Showing content with the highest reputation on 04/10/12 in all areas

  1. What you need A H7 car bulb Tin can Wire and tamiya connector Solder and soldering iron Check make sure the bulb works in useing the 12 battery in my starter box Cut a hole with my dremel shoved the bulb trough Solder it all up I used a tamiya connector as its the one my box uses
    5 points
  2. When I lived in Crosby (north Liverpool) there was a local taxi firm that would grab small items and deliver to your door for basically the cost of a taxi ride. Take out orders were common. One time my g/f and I did raise a smirk from a driver when we got them to deliver is some condoms.
    2 points
  3. solar power or diesel for me !
    2 points
  4. Selling this to make way for new toys. Comes with cnc front and rear chassis braces, cnc steering plate and tbone bumpers. Oils have recently been done. Wheels and tyres are well worn/used.
    1 point
  5. as a lot of you will know i bought an RCP Tripp widebody for baja and decided to reinforce it with a team chase cage underneath, i have always loved the look of a panneled cage however the cheapest premade ones i can find are
    1 point
  6. hi byron, first off, big welcome to msuk!! i too had a savage flux hp but found it too big and fast for me, just recently had a stampede 4x4 vxl and to be quite honest i thought it was a great little truck!! it had some hop ups already done to it but ran like a dream!!, my lad has the brushed stampede and i must say thats a fun little truck too!! fast enough for him to handle too. best thing about traxxas in my mind is the cheapness and availability of spares, makes them a strong contender, also popular enough to have loads of aftermarket hop-ups available too. had a go with a summit and to be honest it comes no where near close to the savage, would love a vorza still but again too fast for me...... whichever you choose though mate, as long as it puts a smile on your face then its all good!! cheers, gaz.
    1 point
  7. This is really helpful stuff guys and I thank you all. I may have to do some modifications to adapt for twin batteries but wouldn't they upset the balance of the boat? Think the single lipo might be best for now as it'll be a big difference to the stock motor etc. The pick up is no problem as its very close to the prop. I'll be buying various props as they alter the speed and acceleration and that's something else to learn about. I know it's an old model but I like the lines and handling plus it's a good starter to play around with and learn all about electric!!!!! lol
    1 point
  8. Applied what I hope will be the final coat of paint to our new RC boat hull. Gloss black with gloss aluminium detailing.
    1 point
  9. unlucky jonny ive got 2 and the big one hates to be in the cage he goes nuts hope he gets better soon mate
    1 point
  10. Sorry I ment lipo battery's 3s is 3 cells 11.1v and 4s is 4 cell 14.8 volt lipos offer longer run times and more power than say a nicad pack Brushless motors are more efficient and offer more power and torque, kv ratings on motors are the max rpm the motor will turn per volt Ie. 1000 kv motor run on 3s 1000rpm x 11.1v = a max rpm of 11000 Rule of thumb bigger the motor can and lower the kv the more torque the motor will have Hope this is of some use Edit. beat me to it
    1 point
  11. 3s and 4s is a lipo battery type I.e 3s is 3 cells 11.1v 4s is 4 cells 14.8v if you know nothing about lipos go and do a bit or research on them I had to but still don't know it well enough to advise tho :-/ I have a couple of lipos I use in my car now and the power they produce is crazy! to be honest I think a 2s (2 cell 7.4v) lipo would be good in it to start but if you get a esc that can handle up to 4s then you can run with the 2s untill your used to it the run 2 battery's to get 4s power be mental! plus with 2 battery's you can distribute the weight better
    1 point
  12. Some of the fleet are at the following link https://picasaweb.google.com/116543558556066472439/TheFleet?authkey=Gv1sRgCMbVhJWlsKaYYg
    1 point
  13. Can't go wrong with a hong nor mate. Very strong and parts easily available on eBay. There are a few rollers on there at the moment. Love my x1-CRT. I also have a converted x2 buggy and as good as it is, for off road bashing, it doesn't even compare to the truggy. If you're looking at mainly bashing off road, personally, I wouldn't be looking at anything other than a truggy. The x1-CRT rollers seem to fetch less money than the hyper st.
    1 point
  14. 7 is big and heavy 8 is big and heavy, but better geometry and more adjustment 9 is a racing buggy
    1 point
  15. When you say BH, do you mean HB as in Higgs Boson? If so then we have already found that... It was pretty major news lol The thing with getting more energy in than you put out, you will always find it comes from somewhere, so it wasn't technically free. Burning fossil fuels is a primative way of extracting energy and is very inefficient. You get less than 1% of the energy available by oxidising something, and you can only turn 20-30% of that 1% of energy into usable energy ie electricity, torque etc. With nuclear energy it's like 3-5%, and fusion can be more, depending on what you're fusing. For 100% energy you have to react matter with antimatter. Currently, antimatter is extremely hard to produce and keep hold of, as if it comes into contact with matter it will annihilate. But in the future if we can master it, you could have 1g of anti matter which could power a rocket to Mars and back, or a city for several months. This kind of thing is the future, although for now we have nuclear fission, and eventually nuclear fusion. The ITER project will show that fusion is viable in 2019 hopefully!!!
    1 point
  16. before you start jumping on the old high horse there fella, all the mtroniks junk are a pain to set up with all the flashes etc. also if you have owned one, have you noticed the utterly stupid delayed reverse then only 1/2 power in reverse. oh and dont get me started on the rock "c"........ i have owned the said mtroniks speed controllers mentioned fella, speaking from experience too
    1 point
  17. question if mtroniks are poo why are they 1 of the best selling brands?they are only crud if you dont use them properly as goes for any brand of esc + ive seem more mamba on here destroyed then mtroniks so in that case the castles are just as bad!
    1 point
  18. add pics either photobucket or upload to the album on here....yeh thas right lol i got it wrong its pn0017 my bad mine is an old one and thats the right one i brought a 0018 and it was to tight so like i said i lossend it up with some small washers on the nut there aint much diffrence beetween the 18 and the 17 but its enuff to make it not work the 18 needs to be about a mill out from the head does it recoil if its not on the motor be carefull if you try it as the spring is very tempamental lol found that out too lol
    1 point
  19. fitted dead chuffed with them. the washers are a temp job at the moment, waiting on some screws to come and some little fixings.
    1 point
  20. A bit of dry lube otherwise your just getting metal on metal contact and premature wear
    1 point
  21. hello and welcome to the cup racer club (just me and yourself mind ) first off mate, what you doing with it?? if its going to drift (mine is) this is the best servo, http://www.modelspor...products/359810 normal sized servo fit but quite snug if you get my meaning. as for esc, this one is perfect, http://www.modelspor...products/367600 much much better than any mtroniks rubbish or any of the other brands that are made as mtroniks, plus its cheaper too!! i would recommend a motor swap too though, http://www.modelspor...-products/37683 this would be perfect. so if on road with grip tyres or drifting, that list of bits is just perfect for the cup racer, i have the esc and servo in my basket ready to purchase too, (already have a motor for it.) as for shells, yep the tamiya mini shells fit on the shorter of the 2 wheelbases and also the m03m bodies fit the longer of the 2 wheelbases, nothing extra needed to swap the wheelbase either mate, just swap the bottom arms round and top shock mounts. i have a scooby doo bus shell if its any good to you?? hope this helps and make sure you get some pics up too mate
    1 point
  22. I use dry chain lube on my CVD joints
    1 point
  23. 41 and been into RC for over 30 years. Can't see me being bored of it anytime soon!
    1 point
  24. hi bud a 3003 servo will be fine as its a standard servo and wont be under powered for it.if it is abit slugish then buy something faster but no need for anything expensive just shop around je models do some scanner servos i run 1 and not had an issue. as for esc you will want something that can take the 15turn motor so an mtroniks rv11 would be good can get them for
    1 point
  25. Just one more thing too, they've replaced the (apparently crap) air filter for a normal one which seems fine now
    1 point
  26. 1 point
  27. HaHa well the cage might be my fault but me getting a Baja in the first place was your fault so i guess its just calmer!
    1 point
  28. Because the clip goes all the way round i can't fully hide them however i already have some black bolts on order =D you realize this cage is your fault lmao
    1 point
  29. There awesome and MASSIVE! And loads of fun :-) still love mine and wouldn't sell it :-)
    1 point
  30. Black bolts or paint the P Clips white and mount them behind the panels so you cant see them? is looking good though mate! you have been a busy boy !
    1 point
  31. no it will be going in one lot i am afraid. thanks for your interest though.
    1 point
  32. http://www.ebay.co.u...984.m1439.l2649 and thanks guys for all the info and help
    1 point
  33. I've already linked to the 150amp ESC and 2200kv motor that I use and recommend for the budget minded.
    1 point
  34. Ha ha we got them in October last year mate can't wait. Seen him last year aswell, I'll report back tomorrow and let you know how it went
    1 point
  35. just need some black bolts and i can put it together properly
    1 point
  36. There's still lots to be tweaked and tuned on brushless cars/trucks. To an extent they can be plug and play but high powered brushless systems will leave any car needing maintenance. The real killer for me is the noise of nitro. You can hardly hear yourself think let alone another basher talk then there's the cat pee smell of burnt nitro. Don't get me wrong I love a crazy loud engine but I'd much rather it was a cr250 engine than a screaming nitro.
    1 point
  37. panels all wrapped, windows are cut just waiting for my black bolts
    1 point
  38. I personally prefer Uranium powered 1/8th scale. A single charge will give you a run time of around 4.468 billion years.
    1 point
  39. sounds like a plan mate, that cherokee body is very nice! would look sweet on your chassis. im thinking along these lines next,
    1 point
  40. Sounds like you put a bit to much in Dont take the exhaust off just pull you plug out and put 2 drops in the hole then pull the pullstart a few times put the plug back in job done. You dont have to do it every time unless you plan to store the car for more then a couple of weeks :
    1 point
  41. alas no the local one Galaxy Models has recently closed. Your better of buying online.
    1 point
  42. Don;t forget to bring a few Mars bars to your next bash.....
    1 point
  43. Could you honestly imagine 10 stoners chasing anything around?!
    1 point
  44. well the new body has finally arrived and after a good wipe down and a rush slash take my time approach here it is. added the engine on the bonnet. looks really nice, quite proud of it actually
    1 point
  45. lol @ arguing about peoples hobbies on a hobby forum. Come on guys, you spend all your money on "toy cars", yet you gag at the thought of someone doing the exact same thing on a bigger scale. *bashes head*
    1 point
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