igbandy

Latest addition to my fleet, Cross RC MC8.

I own a few Kyosho Mini-Z's and love them to bits, however the Carisma 1/24 buggy is a bargain.

I have been collecting some tips for the Gelande 2 chassis build, after I won a Gelande 2 Cruiser at the scale nats a couple of weeks ago.. The screw heads tend to be quite a sloppy fit on your hex driver, so either have a new or good one, or even an imperial one is a better fit. swapping the brass steering knuckle top hats for plastic axial ones will need doing sooner or later. The front axle seems on some to need shimming either straight away or not long after so watch out for that mesh. CVD's a big bonus for steering. SDI drive shafts, scale strong cheap and you'll need to bin the stock ones. only loctite on the the pumpkin, steering knuckles and drive shafts everything else you here that metal on metal "ting" meaning its tight. Build and install all the transmission and transfer before tightening any individual part of that to help it align. The shimming of the axle is the input shaft. You will notice a fat washer behind the C clip, well on the inside of the axle there is a thin shim on the same shaft. You can swap these two around to create a tighter mesh. You shouldn't need to buy any. CVD's the upgrade from dog bones currently inside your steering knuckles, they give more steering angle. 5, SDI drive shafts are one length out of the packet, and you cut them with a dremmel to your kits requirements, takes minutes. Ensure you get the 5mm to 5mm as they do different widths at the point you attach them to your cars drive train. www.sdi4x4.com/index.php?id_product=65&c...er=product&id_lang=1

In 1:1 it doesnt work as it will cause axle wind up and blow something expensive. In RC toys, as long as you are not running on high grip surfaces all of the time, there is some give running different ratio axles. The only time I had trouble was with my Ultra 4 running both OD and UD and running it on a high grip indoor track. It took one of the input bearings out on the front axle. But I stopped running it on there and never had any issues since.

Overdrive or underdrive is in my humble opinion one of the best upgrades to any axial crawl or scale rig. My 6x6 runs Overdrive, my ultra 4 runs both, my scx10 mighty jeep FC build is on overdrive as well.

Top of my list is either an overdrive gear set in the front axle or an underdrive gear set in the rear axle. Using one or the other will do the following. Increased steering, reduced torque twist, better climbing and descending. Axial alloy C`s allow you to add some castor to the steering, which increases steering and steering bite. CVD`s are a worthwhile upgrade as well.

My main winnings from the raffle

My 1:9 Scale Land Rover 101" FC at Burton Dassett Country Park.

On this particular Motor, it does not matter which way the wires are soldered as the timing is set at 0 degrees. If the motor had timing advance it would make a big difference.

Please note, I said it was fine for silver can racing where the motors are considered bin fodder after a few runs. But in a lunchbox its a waste of time. The biggest problem with people water dipping motors is when they do it to modified motors etc after they watch some idiot on youtube do it. Then send me a knackered motor that is bin fodder, or will take 1 rebuild then is thrown away.

I use a spare 12volt car battery or two depending on where and what I am doing. I can`t stand generators (its what I do for a living)

Please don`t water dip your motor, all it does is wear the brushes down a great deal. Great for silver can racing, but in a Lunchbox it isnt worth it. A drop of WD40 on a silver can commutator will improve the RPM by a 1000 or so, an old trick from silver can racing. When I run in a motor after a rebuild it gets 3 mins at 3 volts, then another 3 minutes at 5 volts. This is generally all a motor needs, apart from silver can`s with granite brushes instead of carbon brushes.

They are the 2.2" Sedona. HP/HB have only made Sedona`s in 2.2" white compound. I am afraid that the Wheelspin web guru has made a mistake.

The Brat transmission hasnt got alot of drag, and I know my way round a brushed motor. I have run a 101 with a 3s lipo and a 60 turn motor, didnt bother it at all. Just needed an external BEC.

Out of the 3, the 101 is the best IMHO. Higher powered reverse, very smooth. And I have one in a Subaru Brat running an igified 19 turn motor with a 2s lipo and it never thermals.