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Which budget petrol rc


Chris-scotland

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For your budget, a King Motor Baja clone is really the way to go.

 

A KM 002 has all the basic bits, plus a few useful upgrades, the the basic KM001 covers most of what you would want anyway. Saves you a few £££ and means you can add upgrades later as and when you break stuff. Both come with an alloy diff case, which is a must....plus they include the heavierrear drives copied from the Baja SS. All good to have.

 

You ABSOLUTELY want a kill switch. This is more than a failsafe.... it allows you to actively kill the engine from the TX, as well as killing ignition on loss of power and signal. I had a throittle servo fail on my Baja, launching it on full throttle, Stuck wide open. Just flick a switch and no drama. When you have a 10Kg car hitting 30+mph, it can cause a lot of damage/injury if it got out of control, and a kill switch is just not am option IMHO.

 

The current KM adverts also do not mention if they fit alloy clutch supports. This is 100% a must upgrade if they do not. This supports the clutch bell and pinion, and it gets a lot of wear. Ally here helps heat dissipate and wear, making bearings last longer, and not flexing. Not expensive. The 002 fits front upright supports ( good) as well as an alloy tower( not so good...I leave mine plastic as a 'stress fail point' as they are cheap and easy to swap. Alloy shock tower brace at the back ( good) as well as upgrasded wheels/tyres. No idea if they are good as I never used them. I had Silverback wheels and Hostile MX tyres.

 

Other than that, the basic package is plenty food enough, and leaves you £100 to get that kill switch and choose what else you want/need. Once you get up and running and get the feel of your truck, you will test it's limits. Then you will break stuff 🙂 Thats when you start the upgrade path. I used to break rear uprights and rear upper arms...plus the opccasional front. I found better parts as I went on. Just DO NOT be tempted to allot everything. Things like alloy arms bend under load, where plastic flexes and returns. I also used to leave key 'break points' which were cheap and easy to replace. Otherwise, you make a bit stronger, and the stress moves elsewhere. So something is gonna break in a nasty crash. Plus more ally = more weight....which makes hte crash bigger aand leaves you wanting more power. The cycle continues. As can the spending 🙂 So my advice.... start simple. Enjoy it. Then just upgrade what you break.
 

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As above the km is a good option if you want to go new. But 5/600 will get you a genuine hpi second hand with upgrades already on it.
 

If you’re going for a new km personally I would loctite the screws as practically none of them have any on there and check diff+shock oil levels.  And as mentioned above kill switch is really a must, baffling that they don’t come with them already installed from factory

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