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What ESC and motor combo for 1/8 buggy


Mamba86

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I am nearing completion of my RC8B3.2E buggy build. Its been good fun thus far and I need to start thinking about electrics.

 

The buggy has been built for the sole reason of something to do and a nice reintroduction to RC. I have no intention of racing for example. 

 

I thought I had a rough idea about what I wanted but certain variables keep confusing me. I do want it waterproof. I was thinking of running say a 1900KV motor but read somewhere that I would need to increase kv of motor if running on 3s instead of 4s (my plan is 4s single btw). 

 

I also would welcome advice on a decent servo.

 

Price is not priority but I don't want it to be mega expensive. I accept there is loads of advice online but when I research it I end up getting more confused. I don't want to buy the wrong set up either.

 

Any advice greatly appreciated. 

 

Take care

 

Nick

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My RC8B3.1E has a Hobbywing max8 and 2200kv 4274 motor running 4S. I'm very pleased with this setup, its very quick but being a buggy still easy to control. Not stupid fast. 

 

The rc8b3 doesn't have enough room for most 6S batteries and 3S is too low so go with 4S. Motor kv anything between 1600kv and 2400kv with a 40mm can is fine. Higher kv will give a bit more speed but it's a small difference, especially if you gear up the lower kv motors. 

 

If you want an actually waterproof system then you need to run something sensor less like the max 8. Sensor leads aren't waterproof. If you just want to run in the rain then you'll be fine with sensored, the buggy shell will keep most of the spray out. 

 

I'm running a Highest B210 servo which is pretty fancy. Any servo with 25kg/cm of torque will be strong enough. Speed wise faster is better, just depends how much money you want to spend. 

 

 

 

IMG_20211210_122818.jpg

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Couple more points, get an ESC with a higher voltage BEC and run a high voltage servo. Nearly all 1/8th ESCs have this feature nowadays.

 

Tekno RC pinions are really good for this buggy. Most pinions won't fit because the motor mount doesn't have enough clearance. RPRC stock them in the UK. Associated pinions fit too but tekno are easier to find. 

 

Trim the front of the body where the top arms are mounted, other wise the arms make it flex and crack. You'll see what I mean when you cut it out. Vent holes in the body also make a big difference, you can see them in the picture above. 

 

I run the rear hub upper bolts the opposite way round to the manual, this seem to reduce the amount of stones jamming up the wheel. 

 

 

Upgrades on mine include Tworks skid plates, DE racing bumper, aluminium wing nuts for bling and covered wheel nuts to stop crud getting inside. I've got a pack of mugen drive pins to swap in when the stock ones wear out but that's it. 

Edited by lorrylemming
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The B3. 1e has a different style of arm but same shape. If you look at the picture below you can see where the body over hangs the arm. This needs trimming. 

 

The rear upper hinge pins have the nut on the front as per the instructions, I swapped this round to the back. 

 

 

Just to show you another option here's a cheaper servo that would be perfectly good. I would hate to be one of those people online who says you need to spend loads. 

https://www.modelsport.co.uk/product/power-hd-servo-wh30kg-waterproof-full-alu-case-digital-hv-1332979

 

Screenshot_20211210-174606~2.jpg

Screenshot_20211210-174526~2.jpg

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My son and iused this  in our hyper 7 and my hyper st conversions and comes with a programme card to set up the parameters to how you like 

https://www.modelsport.co.uk/product/hobbywing-ezrun-max8-with-2200kv-motor-combo-397267

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Mine has a 15t with the 2200kv combo motor, I did try a 16t but things got a little warm during the summer so went back down. 

 

https://www.rprcdistribution.com/product-page/tkr4175-m5-pinion-gear-15t-mod1-5mm-bore-m5

 

 

EDIT! 

Just remembered the B3. 2e has shorter diff ratios to the B3. 1e so you might want the 16t pinion. 

Edited by lorrylemming
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10 hours ago, Mamba86 said:

Transmitter ordered. Bits outstanding:

 

Motor and ESC (probs getting HW Max8 combo).

 

Servo

 

4S battery (looking at a cheapish Gens Ace)

 

Pinion (not sure how many teeth though)

Have you looked on Amazon for lipo batteries ?

ZEEE,Vorjay and sundapow are pretty good 👍 

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Have I attached this bracket to the ESC unnecessarily? I could just take the wire straight under the battery/esc tray without it being raised on the bracket provided by HW. It obviously means I have to take the whole tray out and re-thread the wire but that's cool.

20211217_162322.jpg

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I have a 4s battery coming. However, the esc has dual xt90 to run 2x2s. I assume its OK if I just connect a loop connecter to one of the XT90's? I was considering cutting one off but don't wish to void warranty and also gives me option of running 2x2s should I wish.

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1 hour ago, Stormbringer said:

With some makes changing the connecters can void your warranty Blade helicopters are a prime example but some rc car companys could be the same so check 1st 

Yeah true but this is what confuses me.
Most my hobbywings had the connectors fitted by the model shop (you pay for them to do it etc), so does that mean they void the warrenty fitting them? Now i fit the connectors does that mean its void once you wire a connector too it?

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1 hour ago, Redback said:

Yeah true but this is what confuses me.
Most my hobbywings had the connectors fitted by the model shop (you pay for them to do it etc), so does that mean they void the warrenty fitting them? Now i fit the connectors does that mean its void once you wire a connector too it?

 

i think hobbywing are fine with after market connectors, they even had a wee bit heat shrink in the boxes for my max 8 and max 10 🙂

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