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FTX Tracer / HBX 16890?


bertberr

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Hi, I have justgot my little boy the Flyhal FC600

 

https://www.banggood.com/Flyhal-FC600-Two-Batteries-RTR-1-or-16-2_4G-4WD-60km-or-h-Brushless-Fast-RC-Drift-Cars-Vehicles-LED-Light-Full-Proportional-Models-Toys-p-1890171.html?rmmds=myorder&cur_warehouse=USA&ID=531931

 

I am looking for compatible shells and parts please. Can someone please point me in the right direction? he likes the Blackzon shell for the spyder? but I cannot see them anywhere!
many thanks in advance
Mark

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Bought a couple of tracers for me and the lad. Decided to upgrade the diff cups, dog bones, cva’s etc. 

left the metal diff cups in but was disappointed with the other parts. 
suspension travel was compromised due to metal dogbones sticking etc. very poor. 
made it noisy too. 
Biggest issue looks like the different internal dimension on the rear wheel shafts. The cups aren't machined deep enough. Locks the dogbone at mid travel on the suspension. 
Waste of money.  
i wouldn’t bother trying the metal upgrades  21154493-C55C-4965-97F1-95D33B1D5BE0.thumb.png.924974702b85347b798bced804ac35fc.png

Edited by lee511
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@mcdodd

The Flyhal FC600 you got is the same car as the HBX 16890, FTX Tracer and a few other cars with some differences. (you got the good one)

Any chassis/Arms/General bits you would need, you can find on Banggood or Ebay or Amazon or anywhere else.

 

FTX Tracer/HBX 16890?

 

Lots of stuff available for your wee car (a lot of it done on your version) including clear shells from Phat Bodies that can be made to fit and painted.

 

It's a great little car mate, hope you have fun with it like I did.

Edited by Captain Howdy
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15 hours ago, Captain Howdy said:

@mcdodd

The Flyhal FC600 you got is the same car as the HBX 16890, FTX Tracer and a few other cars with some differences. (you got the good one)

Any chassis/Arms/General bits you would need, you can find on Banggood or Ebay or Amazon or anywhere else.

 

FTX Tracer/HBX 16890?

 

Lots of stuff available for your wee car (a lot of it done on your version) including clear shells from Phat Bodies that can be made to fit and painted.

 

It's a great little car mate, hope you have fun with it like I did.

Hi, many thanks for your reply. We took the car out yesterday and things we learned very quickly...this thing is fast! my son will find any kerb, wall, obstacle to hit head on! we will need extra bodyshell pins a lot by the way he crashes it!
I'm very pleased with it tbh.
So, back to my post, I can buy any FTX Tracer or HBX 16890 bodyshell and it will fit? you mention other cars so just wondering what they are to check out their shells too
I'll look on the PhatBodies website too..

 

also, where can I get this little nodule part to screw in so I can use a slightly different shell please? please see attached image

Many thanks
Mark

Capture.PNG

Edited by mcdodd
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Modelsport UK sell the body post parts you need. Look in the FTX tracer spares section. You might need new front posts too as the Flyhal version has them cut down from the factory. 

 

https://www.modelsport.co.uk/product/ftx-tracer-1-16-rtr-truggy-green-1332660/spares-2125

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20 hours ago, lorrylemming said:

Modelsport UK sell the body post parts you need. Look in the FTX tracer spares section. You might need new front posts too as the Flyhal version has them cut down from the factory. 

 

https://www.modelsport.co.uk/product/ftx-tracer-1-16-rtr-truggy-green-1332660/spares-2125

many thanks, I have put a wishlist of spares into Modelsport. I really only want the body posts as my boy likes one of the shells, it happens to have 1 centre body post.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi all, I just found this post and have to say it's been incredibly helpful! Looking to get my 7 y/o one of these truggys and wanted to make sure it would be fixable when it inevitably gets broken, all the info on here has my mind made up. 

 

I only have one simple question really, would I be best to just pay out the extra for the pro version from the start and order from banggood or AliExpress, or do I buy the brushed version here in the UK and upgrade as and when things get broken?

 

It'll be used for bashing round the park etc but no doubt when he gets the hang of it we will eventually end up on the skatepark a little bit although I'll probably keep him off the verts.

 

All opinions and help welcome! Thanks in advance. 

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3 hours ago, Joemo27 said:

Hi all, I just found this post and have to say it's been incredibly helpful! Looking to get my 7 y/o one of these truggys and wanted to make sure it would be fixable when it inevitably gets broken, all the info on here has my mind made up. 

 

I only have one simple question really, would I be best to just pay out the extra for the pro version from the start and order from banggood or AliExpress, or do I buy the brushed version here in the UK and upgrade as and when things get broken?

 

It'll be used for bashing round the park etc but no doubt when he gets the hang of it we will eventually end up on the skatepark a little bit although I'll probably keep him off the verts.

 

All opinions and help welcome! Thanks in advance. 

It really depends how quickly you want it to arrive. If you're willing to wait weeks, or sometimes or even months then I'd get the Pro version from Banggood every time. If you just want to get out and bash asap then the standard version is perfectly good too. Me and the kids are yet to break anything on ours and it's taken some real abuse 🙂

 

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3 hours ago, lorrylemming said:

Just drilled out the rear axle cups on my pro model to solve the dogbone binding issue. 5.5mm drill bit was the right size.  Shame to have this issue from the factory but not too hard to solve.

Cheers for the tip man, I'll sort that when it gets here.

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12 hours ago, Joemo27 said:

Cheers for the tip man, I'll sort that when it gets here.

 

With a HSS 5.5mm bit and a decent drill it took at least 4 minutes of drilling time for each one. You'll need to clean out the swarf regularly as it collects in the cup. I used some chain oil as cutting fluid. 

 

 

Next on my mods list for this car is a larger pinion, rumour has it the motor mount can be flipped round to move the mounting holes. I haven't investigated yet. 

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Thought I’d do a modifications list for the pro model based on what I’ve done to mine. Not exhaustive but hopefully helps some people out.

 

Out of the box mods:

  •          Put thread lock on the wheel nuts
  • ·         Fit the included wheelie bar

 

Durability mods:

  • ·         Super glue the cross bolt for the wheelie bar, to stop it flexing sideways.
  • ·         Put heatshrink round the head light wires, to stop the body cutting them up.
  • ·         Drill out the rear axle cups with a 5.5mm drill bit.
    • If you don’t want to drill out the cups, you can limit the up travel to stop them binding by putting orings or fuel tube on the shock shaft.
  • ·         Dry wall tape and glue the bodyshell to stop it cracking, being PVC this is needed.
  • ·         Change or grease the bottom shock orings, these weep a bit out of the box. I used generic M3 shock orings from ebay.
  • ·         Fit stiffer body pins, the included ones fall off.

 

 

Handling mods:

  •           Add better tyres, there are a few options from other small vehicles but the best seem to be LC racing truggy or MT wheels and any 2.2 buggy tyre, or wheels for the Traxxas mini revo.
  • ·         Change the shock oil out for your driving, 20-30wt for offroad and probably double that for onroad or big jumps.
  • ·         Soften the front springs on a gas hob to get some more grip at the front, or fit stiffer rear springs if you want a high ride height. Most touring car springs will fit, I think.
  • ·         Pack the diffs with grease to improve forward traction, I used red N tacky but anything should work.

 

271933570_2791197884513771_357827720619102851_n.jpg.9410abe1bc183b94cde476798801d721.jpg

 

271596101_611778603446496_5733689453004159358_n.jpg.080afd57ce8077ae3aa5fa7d27fda91b.jpg Drilled out cups, allowing the dogbones more range.

 

 

271533427_2700674236745171_2992508823928018711_n.jpg.14dc1bbd5c4d9dcaae2aebe40566e40f.jpgHeat shrink on the headlights and the compressed springs to soften the front end.

 

271440751_4438103909629240_3993182257089367834_n.jpg.afb2131520a4c308bb4c0e71c5dcd03b.jpgFastrax stinger tyres and wheels for the mini revo.

 

t.269977776_2018547951659416_1235528601918938473_n.jpg.4016e8e758090536a53375f00e171628.jpg Super glued wheelie bar cross bolt.

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by lorrylemming
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On 19/01/2022 at 19:06, lorrylemming said:

Thought I’d do a modifications list for the pro model based on what I’ve done to mine. Not exhaustive but hopefully helps some people out.

 

Out of the box mods:

  •          Put thread lock on the wheel nuts
  • ·         Fit the included wheelie bar

 

Durability mods:

  • ·         Super glue the cross bolt for the wheelie bar, to stop it flexing sideways.
  • ·         Put heatshrink round the head light wires, to stop the body cutting them up.
  • ·         Drill out the rear axle cups with a 5.5mm drill bit.
    • If you don’t want to drill out the cups, you can limit the up travel to stop them binding by putting orings or fuel tube on the shock shaft.
  • ·         Dry wall tape and glue the bodyshell to stop it cracking, being PVC this is needed.
  • ·         Change or grease the bottom shock orings, these weep a bit out of the box. I used generic M3 shock orings from ebay.
  • ·         Fit stiffer body pins, the included ones fall off.

 

 

Handling mods:

  •           Add better tyres, there are a few options from other small vehicles but the best seem to be LC racing truggy or MT wheels and any 2.2 buggy tyre, or wheels for the Traxxas mini revo.
  • ·         Change the shock oil out for your driving, 20-30wt for offroad and probably double that for onroad or big jumps.
  • ·         Soften the front springs on a gas hob to get some more grip at the front, or fit stiffer rear springs if you want a high ride height. Most touring car springs will fit, I think.
  • ·         Pack the diffs with grease to improve forward traction, I used red N tacky but anything should work.

 

271933570_2791197884513771_357827720619102851_n.jpg.9410abe1bc183b94cde476798801d721.jpg

 

271596101_611778603446496_5733689453004159358_n.jpg.080afd57ce8077ae3aa5fa7d27fda91b.jpg Drilled out cups, allowing the dogbones more range.

 

 

271533427_2700674236745171_2992508823928018711_n.jpg.14dc1bbd5c4d9dcaae2aebe40566e40f.jpgHeat shrink on the headlights and the compressed springs to soften the front end.

 

271440751_4438103909629240_3993182257089367834_n.jpg.afb2131520a4c308bb4c0e71c5dcd03b.jpgFastrax stinger tyres and wheels for the mini revo.

 

t.269977776_2018547951659416_1235528601918938473_n.jpg.4016e8e758090536a53375f00e171628.jpg Super glued wheelie bar cross bolt.

 

 

 

 

 

This is a great post, super helpful! Thank you very much for sharing, if you happen to come in up with any more good mods or improvements I'd you get a spare minute to add them on this thread that would be amazing! 

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Anyone tried to fix the steering problems that come from the steering links and the servo saver?For example the tires most of the time doesn`t get back to exact center and lean to one side after turning. so often i have to trim and readjust which is very frustrating.

There is slop in the steering links also, but what i found was that its mostly the servo saver that doesn`t always gets back in neutral position.Tighten it up helped a bit but it gets loose after a while again.Removing the servo saver helped more but well you risk the servo on bad landings or crashing.I replaced the stock servo with a cheap 17g metal mini servo SURPASS Hobby S0017M /1.8KG (was like 4 euro on sale) trying to see if it will be any different it still feels weak on grass sadly but with the servo horn that come up with it and no servo saver i had the best results so far but still not what i would have liked.I`m on the hunt to try some adjustable tire rods or adjustable turn buckles in order to try them as a fix for the slop in the steering links and maybe be able to toe it out a degree to see if that helps but i didnt found anything locally so far and waiting 30-45 days for parts from china is kinda meh right now.So if anyone have a solution for this i`ll be happy to check it out.

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I’ve recently changed the driveshafts and shocks on my kids’ ftx tracers with the metal bits and oil filled shocks,  and they’re sitting much higher. The shocks themselves are a bit bigger, but I thought nothing of it. The rear is much higher. Fronts are the same but less extreme height difference. 
 

am I missing something? Or is this what is expected? I’ll admit to being fairly clueless with most this stuff, learning as I go along. 
my car on left (unmolested) and the bairn’s in the right. Obviously 😂 

A40D9B6C-D192-4C2C-A824-E87BCA6AAD95.thumb.jpeg.5356abd0dcaf119cfa5c7b31ea7ba36f.jpeg

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1 hour ago, Nerocircus said:

I’ve recently changed the driveshafts and shocks on my kids’ ftx tracers with the metal bits and oil filled shocks,  and they’re sitting much higher. The shocks themselves are a bit bigger, but I thought nothing of it. The rear is much higher. Fronts are the same but less extreme height difference. 
 

am I missing something? Or is this what is expected? I’ll admit to being fairly clueless with most this stuff, learning as I go along. 
my car on left (unmolested) and the bairn’s in the right. Obviously 😂 

A40D9B6C-D192-4C2C-A824-E87BCA6AAD95.thumb.jpeg.5356abd0dcaf119cfa5c7b31ea7ba36f.jpeg

After further reading, I think I may have ordered the wrong shocks. These are for the 16889 but think our truggies should have the 16890 ones which are apparently just a little shorter?  Just assumed all the internals were the same, maybe it’s just nearly all.
 

Best place to get the right ones? Struggling to find them.  Or anyway of modding these to suit?

Edited by Nerocircus
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You should be able to drop the extended length of the shocks down if you don’t mind taking them apart to modify them.
 

The method most people seem to go with for this is to place a length of fuel tube (or some other pipe/shim) over the shock shaft inside of the shock body (between the plastic damper plate on the end of the shaft and the shock body). This stops the shaft from fully extending and reduces the overall length of the shock. You may find that your new shock’s springs might be to firm/soft after doing this so could try experimenting with the ones from the original shocks if they fit. 

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The 16889 and 16890 use the same shocks. The ones you've bought are for a larger HBX car. I remember someone on Facebook having the problem with shocks they bought off amazon and they got a refund because the description was wrong. Hope you can do the same. 

 

 

FTX sell the correct oil shocks as an upgrade. Banggood do too but I can't find them on their website right now. 

 

https://www.modelsport.co.uk/product/ftx-tracer-aluminium-capped-oil-filled-shocks-2-1333690

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3 hours ago, lorrylemming said:

The 16889 and 16890 use the same shocks. The ones you've bought are for a larger HBX car. I remember someone on Facebook having the problem with shocks they bought off amazon and they got a refund because the description was wrong. Hope you can do the same. 

 

 

FTX sell the correct oil shocks as an upgrade. Banggood do too but I can't find them on their website right now. 

 

https://www.modelsport.co.uk/product/ftx-tracer-aluminium-capped-oil-filled-shocks-2-1333690

Thanks. 
what made me think they had different sized shocks was these comments on an item on BG. 
E059359B-3A70-458F-BA4B-61862902AC2E.thumb.jpeg.d56c73a8dd6941648b90c90a1a0af7a9.jpeg

 

The ones I bought were from china via ebay, so probably more hassle to send back I’d imagine. Def advertised as 16889

4B06A36E-1BB7-4A53-BB0F-73DC143B9167.thumb.png.02ff50d95841edc2e95d5b7845ad48ed.png

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That techyfertier has got it wrong, sorry to say. I'd start by putting a complaint in on Ebay, chinese sellers usually offer a partial refund to make you go away but even that's better than nothing and you don't have to return the item. The positive feedback is more important to them than the refund cost. 

 

 

As Ginge says once you've settled with the eBay seller I'd take the shocks apart and put some stoppers in to make them work. If you can fit the lower ball stud from the stock shocks that will reduce the length a little. 

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1 hour ago, Langers said:

Hi,

Does anyone know is these will fit the 16889a Pro?

 

[£10.25 32% OFF]Feiyue FY01 FY02 FY03 FY04 FY05 FY07 FY08 1/12 RC Spare 97mm Tire Wheels 12059 Car Vehicles Model Parts RC Parts from Toys Hobbies and Robot on banggood

https://banggood.onelink.me/zMT7/730ea41c

 

Thanks in advance

Langers

 

I don't own them but looking at the specs they should. Pretty large though so might need to trim the front arches for clearance. 

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