Dag Posted October 6, 2021 Share Posted October 6, 2021 (edited) Almost there with the build, but quite disappointed with the shocks. Just commissioned some new shock pistons to my sizes, so I can have a play with different oilway designs. I'll update in due course 🙂 Edited October 6, 2021 by Dag 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lone-wolf Posted October 6, 2021 Share Posted October 6, 2021 The shocks can be made to work well, I hated them, bought aftermarket shocks that did not fit right so modded the pistons and now they work Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dag Posted October 6, 2021 Share Posted October 6, 2021 4 minutes ago, Jack Reacher said: The shocks can be made to work well, I hated them, bought aftermarket shocks that did not fit right so modded the pistons and now they work Yeah, I've got mine ok, but I've had far better working shocks. I'll see what I end up with 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dag Posted October 6, 2021 Share Posted October 6, 2021 Pretty much at a standstill with the build now. decided to order new radio gear so I’ll be stood down till that’s here. don’t think I’m going to use the DC1 body so looking at my options 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Dag Posted October 8, 2021 Popular Post Share Posted October 8, 2021 Fitted the radio gear today so had a first test run indoors. All good, if not a bit wobbly on the unglued tyres. I have some beadlocks on the way then I'll get the tyres fitted to those. Only thing I'm struggling with, is getting the gearchange rod set properly, but I'll have a good look at that tomorrow. I have a nice shell arriving imminently, that will look good I reckon. 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrPeaski Posted October 8, 2021 Share Posted October 8, 2021 4 hours ago, Dag said: Only thing I'm struggling with, is getting the gearchange rod set properly, but I'll have a good look at that tomorrow. Have a look at moving the actuator down closer to the centre of the servo horn. You only need a small amount of travel to change gear. It looks like the same servo that I (everybody?) am using and it is in the second hole from the centre. With the radio (Radiolinc RC6GS) set at 50% on the end stops, I get about 7mm of travel on the shifter rod which changes smoothly when running at any speed. If you change gear when stopped, it sometimes needs the car to move before clicking into place. Interesting to see which direction you've gone with the bodyshell 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrPeaski Posted October 8, 2021 Share Posted October 8, 2021 I've been faffing with the suspension (again!!) with some 3D printed shock mounts. With a bit of luck, I'll be taking it out to see how things hold up. So I'll post pictures and findings soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrPeaski Posted October 8, 2021 Share Posted October 8, 2021 On 04/10/2021 at 20:01, Jack Reacher said: Okay, at last the super swampers arrived, i have "Tooth cut" the foams to allow the wheels to squat the tyres a little, might be budget tyres but they are pretty decent, got them on the FS scx10 as well Where did you get the tyres from @Jack Reacher and have you got a picture of the tooth cut on the foams? Be interesting to try that one out. I'm running the same tyres as @Stormbringer, but with the stock kit foams which are a bit wider than the ones that came with the tyres, but feel a bit softer. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dag Posted October 8, 2021 Share Posted October 8, 2021 17 minutes ago, MrPeaski said: Have a look at moving the actuator down closer to the centre of the servo horn. You only need a small amount of travel to change gear. It looks like the same servo that I (everybody?) am using and it is in the second hole from the centre. With the radio (Radiolinc RC6GS) set at 50% on the end stops, I get about 7mm of travel on the shifter rod which changes smoothly when running at any speed. If you change gear when stopped, it sometimes needs the car to move before clicking into place. Interesting to see which direction you've gone with the bodyshell Thanks It was only really an estimation, where I had the connection to the servo horn. Pretty sure I'll get it now I have the radio gear installed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dag Posted October 8, 2021 Share Posted October 8, 2021 26 minutes ago, MrPeaski said: I've been faffing with the suspension (again!!) with some 3D printed shock mounts. With a bit of luck, I'll be taking it out to see how things hold up. So I'll post pictures and findings soon. Interested to see what you do with the shock mounts. From what I've observed, the springs are too stiff. Maybe some extra height on the shock mounts will allow some sag. I'll be looking at softer springs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lone-wolf Posted October 9, 2021 Share Posted October 9, 2021 4 hours ago, MrPeaski said: Where did you get the tyres from @Jack Reacher and have you got a picture of the tooth cut on the foams? Be interesting to try that one out. sorry did not take a pic of the foams, but they end up just like a cog, there is a video on youtube about doing it 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dag Posted October 9, 2021 Share Posted October 9, 2021 Has anyone fitted alloy / brass, wheel hex to the DC1? If so which have you used? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dag Posted October 9, 2021 Share Posted October 9, 2021 11 hours ago, MrPeaski said: Interesting to see which direction you've gone with the bodyshell I'll keep the shell under my hat, at least till I've got a fit up. But it should change the COG significantly 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post MrPeaski Posted October 9, 2021 Popular Post Share Posted October 9, 2021 I posted on page 12, my process of fitting a set of GMade XD Aeration shocks. At the time I hadn't run the car with them but have done since and it made a world of difference. Part of this I think has to be that they are a bigger diameter body and so there is more oil in the system. The problem with this is that (as posted) they are a pain to fit and needed extra parts 3D printing to get them to work. This left the shock at a funny angle in relation to the mounts, the ended up wider at the top than at the bottom in a sort of wide 'V' shape, but they worked well anyway. I decided to revise the entire mounting tower, and in essence copied the aluminium mounts you can get (these retail for around £80) Using Fusion360, I was able to use a picture of the aluminium mount to create a copy, but the only real world dimensions I could use were the hole spacings that attach the mount to the rails. The rest was taken from the stock plastic mounts. I also had to make some cylindrical parts to fit the shock to the new mount The height of the top fixture is about the same as the stock mount, but angled back which follows the bottom mounting point better. It also means that the top of the shock, now sits further in so they are now parallel vertically The bodyshell also fits in about the same position as stock Stock shock position (taken from @everclear1984 build thread) Revised position Mount details Aaaand as with my previous faffing session, I won't be able to take the beast out for a test run yet 😒 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lone-wolf Posted October 9, 2021 Share Posted October 9, 2021 I had my DC1 out for a very quick run this morning to test the rear mounted battery and the new rock tyre super swampers, it went very well, I will link a video later 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stormbringer Posted October 9, 2021 Share Posted October 9, 2021 Looking forward seeing the video mate 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dag Posted October 9, 2021 Share Posted October 9, 2021 1 hour ago, MrPeaski said: I posted on page 12, my process of fitting a set of GMade XD Aeration shocks. At the time I hadn't run the car with them but have done since and it made a world of difference. Part of this I think has to be that they are a bigger diameter body and so there is more oil in the system. The problem with this is that (as posted) they are a pain to fit and needed extra parts 3D printing to get them to work. This left the shock at a funny angle in relation to the mounts, the ended up wider at the top than at the bottom in a sort of wide 'V' shape, but they worked well anyway. I decided to revise the entire mounting tower, and in essence copied the aluminium mounts you can get (these retail for around £80) Using Fusion360, I was able to use a picture of the aluminium mount to create a copy, but the only real world dimensions I could use were the hole spacings that attach the mount to the rails. The rest was taken from the stock plastic mounts. I also had to make some cylindrical parts to fit the shock to the new mount The height of the top fixture is about the same as the stock mount, but angled back which follows the bottom mounting point better. It also means that the top of the shock, now sits further in so they are now parallel vertically The bodyshell also fits in about the same position as stock Stock shock position (taken from @everclear1984 build thread) Revised position Mount details Aaaand as with my previous faffing session, I won't be able to take the beast out for a test run yet 😒 I like those shock mounts. The alloy ones look far too dear. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dag Posted October 9, 2021 Share Posted October 9, 2021 54 minutes ago, Jack Reacher said: I had my DC1 out for a very quick run this morning to test the rear mounted battery and the new rock tyre super swampers, it went very well, I will link a video later Moved my battery to the rear yesterday hoping to get the rear springs to sag a little. Interested to see how it works for you. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Lone-wolf Posted October 9, 2021 Popular Post Share Posted October 9, 2021 (edited) 1 hour ago, Dag said: Moved my battery to the rear yesterday hoping to get the rear springs to sag a little. Interested to see how it works for you. I think it works well, next time out i will run it with twin lipo`s to see how it fares, here is video from this morning, at some points in video you can see how the tyres squat out under load, just nice Edited October 9, 2021 by Jack Reacher 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dag Posted October 9, 2021 Share Posted October 9, 2021 6 minutes ago, Jack Reacher said: I think it works well, next time out i will run it with twin lipo`s to see how it fares, here is video from this morning, at some points in video you can see how the tyres squat out under load, just nice Looks good and those tyres seem to work well 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stormbringer Posted October 9, 2021 Share Posted October 9, 2021 Looks to be going well mate and really looks the part trundling along 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dag Posted October 9, 2021 Share Posted October 9, 2021 30 minutes ago, Jack Reacher said: I think it works well, next time out i will run it with twin lipo`s to see how it fares, here is video from this morning, at some points in video you can see how the tyres squat out under load, just nice Just making me wonder whether I should order another battery tray to carry 2 batteries. That just may give what I think I need in terms of sag Mmmmmm. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lone-wolf Posted October 9, 2021 Share Posted October 9, 2021 modelsport had them in stock last week, you dont get the fixing screws so i just used 2 screws in each, and the rear mounted one needs the battery strap hook removing, i use vecro straps to hold battery any ways Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dag Posted October 9, 2021 Share Posted October 9, 2021 12 minutes ago, Jack Reacher said: modelsport had them in stock last week, you dont get the fixing screws so i just used 2 screws in each, and the rear mounted one needs the battery strap hook removing, i use vecro straps to hold battery any ways Thanks. I'll order one. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Dag Posted October 11, 2021 Popular Post Share Posted October 11, 2021 (edited) On 09/10/2021 at 00:16, MrPeaski said: Have a look at moving the actuator down closer to the centre of the servo horn. You only need a small amount of travel to change gear. It looks like the same servo that I (everybody?) am using and it is in the second hole from the centre. With the radio (Radiolinc RC6GS) set at 50% on the end stops, I get about 7mm of travel on the shifter rod which changes smoothly when running at any speed. If you change gear when stopped, it sometimes needs the car to move before clicking into place. Interesting to see which direction you've gone with the bodyshell The postie has earned his crust today. The beadlocks and the shell arrived. The shell is a Ford 1974 F150, and from first plonk on, looks like it will fit very well. I did order another body post set so I could use 2 front body mounts. The beadlocks are Gmade items, bought for a scale 'ish look to match the body. Used the kit tyres for the minute. Very happy with this and lots to do now. the real orange truck is what I’m trying to replicate Edited October 11, 2021 by Dag 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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