MrPeaski

I still have mine, but like @Stormbringermine hasn't been out for quite a while. I check the LiPo every so often and top up the storage charge when needed though

From everything I've read, the MG4 isn't fully one pedal driving, it'll do most of the braking etc but not come to a complete stop (unless the automatic emergency brake kicks in) It was a bit busy on the short drive home, but my left foot did want to find the clutch! All being well, I'll take it for a spin tomorrow and get a few miles under my belt. Don't fancy a 'virgin' trip on the M4 first thing Monday morning!! Ta for the offer of help

From Bridgend, but drive into Cardiff for work. Just spent a good 45 mins nosing into the tech....there's a lot to get used to, so I'm going to concentrate on the actual driving for a bit first.

@m4inbrain I went for the Trophy in Blue! Just need to get used to a new style of driving and all the tech it comes with

Collecting one of these tomorrow, My first new car in 23 years. First car with no gearbox and first electric one.

Have a look here, https://www.quadifyrc.com/rccarreviews/sg-1603-sg-1604-review-and-the-simple-fixes-that-are-critical Some of the fixes such as the shortening of the stock shocks seem to have been sorted as mine didn't extend as far as in the review. and also this guy has a few videos showing some mods https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCgyiGHj8F759pVhUnCbHOfg/videos I got the Panther version and upgraded the diffs, shocks and added a set of the black wheels/tarmac tyres. I made a WRC style rear wing too.

EBike tax innit Let me guess its also spent most of its life in Boost/Turbo

Gravel Bike = Hardtail MTB with curly bars

Typical bike owner showing no mechanical sympathy for their bike. I (and no doubt @LunsfordRich ) have seen much worse!

I had seen them when fatbikes were more of 'a thing', but like you had no reason to buy one. If I was to have only 'one bike to do it all', I think it would be along the lines of a 150mm full sus fatbike with a motor. But I do like the option to choose.

Nice couple of bikes there @LunsfordRich I have in my collection... 2015 Trek Farley 6 Fatbike 2016 Cube Stereo 140 C62 SL Octane One Prone (built up from spares I had lying around) 2020 Cube Stereo Hybrid 160 Action Team E-Bike And from 'back in the day' some wall art..... 2000 Mountain Cycle Tremor FR-1 2002 Mountain Cycle Shockwave 9Point5

Have a look way back on page 8 of this thread where I was looking at Gmade piggy back shock as a possible upgrade. @everclear1984 mentioned TRX 4 shocks and linked to their GTS shocks, also, @Jimboi linked to the Element enduro shocks as an option. I went with Gmade XD Aeration shocks which work great, but need modified upper mounts to fit. Pinch the ones of your dad's for a test run 🤣

Depends on how the new shocks are measured, eye centre to eye centre they should be 90mm, but if total overall extended length then 100mm. Just followed the link from @Jack Reacher and you'll need the 90mm ones

Is that how all of the shocks are assembled? Those 'O' rings and black 'top hats' should all be in the bottom section of the shock. This picture from the manual is how they should be assembled. Try that first and see if it improves things. You may need to lightly sand the piston (part no 230041)to a slightly smaller diameter in order for it to slide smoothly and not bind inside the body.

Maybe this would help with your next set of mirrors. Can't take any credit for finding this as it was posted in the DC-1 thread by @Jack Reacher

Think they're closer to 17mm. You ca import a pic into Fusion 360 and use it as a canvas, when scaled correctly you can use it to pretty accurately draw scale parts. Using that, the hex come in at around 17 as this pic would suggest Doing a google the landmax 2 was a 1/8 scale so 17mm does seem more likely I hope this helps

M3 x 22mm for the bolts Seems like 30wt or around 300/350CST is in the stock ones. I have G-Made Aeration shocks on mine again with the stock oil supplied with those

Here are more details of the stand my car is sitting on. Assembled stands tied together with added stringers Front stand Tied together Rear stand Designed specifically for the DC-1, I use it as a display stand to keep the tyres off the ground, with the weight of the car, if left for a while the tyres do get flat spots. Its also useful when working on the shell or the insides, electrics etc. The current wheel/tyre combo is approx 110mm in diameter and at its lowest point there's around a 6mm gap under the tyre. If anyone want to make one for themselves, here is a link to a zip file containing all the STL files, print quantities and print layout pics https://drive.google.com/file/d/11YeIGZ2_DHji7NCLNdbxYcFkdcpBK-Za/view?usp=sharing If you want to make separate front/rear stands you can leave out the black parts labelled as stringers. These were added at a later date so don't fit in any cut outs on the front/rear stands. It will all slot together, but I glued it for strength.

@whitecitadel The axle stands are ones I designed myself. I'm not by the PC at the mo but I'll share a link when I am for anyone that wants to make a set.

@stretch Ta for the heads up, post adjusted with Google drive links 👍 Tempted to do the same for the rear now. I'll have a look when I get some time

@Jack Reacher This is one I modelled (Fusion360) and printed myself based on the stock bumper. I used a piece of 8mm diameter aluminium tubing for the attachment rods and it is slammed tight to the front bumper mount. Cura printing settings. 5 walls, 50% cubic infill, 0.2 layer height with supports enabled (for the attachment rod holes) Printed with the upper surface face down on a glass bed. Step and STL files here if you (or anyone else) want to try it out Step file https://drive.google.com/file/d/1OK4vcmWL1s4iAEoaIH1CIz3FFee_cgqI/view?usp=sharing STL file https://drive.google.com/file/d/16Cw1xfoks5O0s9Zk03zenIWFxhlRMz9x/view?usp=sharing

Not the best picture, but this is the slimmed down bumper remodel

Really must try and get out with mine again, not been out since I posted the video at the beach! I have remodelled the front bumper though to try and give a better approach angle. same shape as the stock one minus the 'bull bar' loops and about 10mm thinner? I'll post a picture when I get around to it.

@everclear1984 and @Stormbringer If you're still using the one from your build thread, here is a cropped picture of the servo I'm running an Etronix 9g micro servo, but must admit I've not got it wet.....yet! HTH

Glad I could help. Must be honest, I'm fairly new to crawlers in general and I saw the 'fix' suggested to someone else around the same time I got my mini. For the most part mine is stock except for an upgraded motor (100t high torque FTX9329), 25A brushed ESC (FTX9396) and receiver (radiolink) these replace the combo ecs/receiver primarily so I could use my RC6GS Transmitter as it has a 10 model memory so I only need 1. To be fair, none are really necessary and it will run fine with the stock kit. I tried a couple of different shock sets, These https://www.modelsport.co.uk/product/ftx-mini-outback-2.0-aluminium-shock-upgrade-set-4pc--446190, and also these, https://www.modelsport.co.uk/product/carisma-scale-adventure-aluminium-oil-filled-shock-absorber-set-msa-1e--435358 But reverted back to the plastic stock ones, I found the FTX ones would bind regularly and the Carisma's weren't really designed to fit anyway but I did get them on but it was a faf and performance wasn't all that great. I have seen a member on here that has successfully got them to work, probably in the Micro's and Minis section if you have a dig around. (Edit) This was the thread I was thinking of, similar chassis to the FTX Mini Only Mod I have done that makes a bit of difference is adding weight to the wheels with this 3D printed mod https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4554401