Scottyb Posted October 7, 2021 Share Posted October 7, 2021 Yea that's what i thought when looking on there website. At least they are sending me the V2 pack so hopefully upgrading it might make it last a bit longer before breaking. Or do i just run it til stuff breaks lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darren Frosty Posted October 7, 2021 Share Posted October 7, 2021 I've asked the question in the Facebook group as I'm now very confused. The Corally guy is right though in saying the V2 parts are way stronger than the V1 bits. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darren Frosty Posted October 7, 2021 Share Posted October 7, 2021 personally I'd chuck all the V2 stuff on, you don't want a front arm to break and then shred the CVD again... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scottyb Posted October 7, 2021 Share Posted October 7, 2021 (edited) Yea that's what i'm worried about is the CVD, They're not exactly "cheap" cheap. I don't mind the steering link stuff coz it's only a few quid but £15 every time soon adds up If that's the case i won't be taking it out again until i've got the V2 parts on it then Edited October 7, 2021 by Scottyb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darren Frosty Posted October 7, 2021 Share Posted October 7, 2021 still cheaper than the Arrma parts though! 🙂 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darren Frosty Posted October 7, 2021 Share Posted October 7, 2021 Stefan says XTR models have adjustable links as standard. That answers that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SWF Posted October 7, 2021 Share Posted October 7, 2021 Hi All the parts on all of the XTR are V2 or better, the pictures on the website are wrong, Kings Lynn Models checked this when I bought mine. Parts like the front upper hinge pin brace and chassis braces are further upgraded to alloy rather than V2 plastic. The V2 service pack gives you a host of spare parts though, all the same as fitted standard to the XTR and other V2 cars, though some are not up to XTR spec. Unfortunately, the CVD’s are at risk when the pillow balls pop, 2 out of 9 or 10 times for me. My first wing shattered like glass on first impact, Corally replaced it under warranty and it’s survived since. The replacement feels much more flexible than the original. I don’t accept the “bad batch of steering knuckles”, I’ve gone through too many for it to be pot luck, they’re all bad IMHO. Maybe the new batch, using the original part number but an improved material, are better? You have no idea if you have them though! No, I won’t be spending any more money on pot luck, buying the original parts, it’s pointless. The definition of stupidity is repeatedly doing the same thing, expecting the outcome to be different. When the re-designed parts arrive, I’ll be obtaining and fitting them if I can, then the Achilles Heel of the Kronos should be history, fingers crossed. Corally have no control over the current global supply issues though, so it looks like we’ll have to wait I’m afraid. Until then, hopefully they send you enough parts to get you back up and running and keep things that way for much much longer this time. Cheers Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chrisboogie Posted October 7, 2021 Share Posted October 7, 2021 On 06/10/2021 at 14:19, SWF said: Hi Well that saves you choosing something else then, haha! Are they sending you the re-designed steering knuckles, or just ones in the stronger material, I’d be interested to hear how they perform? Arrma pivot balls didn’t help mine in any measurable way. I think you would need to change all of the assembly, knuckles, hexes, hybrid driveshaft, and steering rod ends as “rc guy garage” did, to get a reliable Arrma fix. I priced it up but decided to wait see what Corally would do? I know they care, but waiting sucks! Best of luck. Cheers Steve Im ordering the hot racing nuckles for my Kronos v2 that should stop all the popping out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scottyb Posted October 8, 2021 Share Posted October 8, 2021 11 hours ago, Chrisboogie said: Im ordering the hot racing nuckles for my Kronos v2 that should stop all the popping out I don't think anyone makes them in the UK/EU, Last time i bought something from the states i had to pay what i paid for the item in tax... There's a guy in netherlands making 7075 ones but they're not on his website atm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scottyb Posted October 8, 2021 Share Posted October 8, 2021 14 hours ago, SWF said: Hi All the parts on all of the XTR are V2 or better, the pictures on the website are wrong, Kings Lynn Models checked this when I bought mine. Parts like the front upper hinge pin brace and chassis braces are further upgraded to alloy rather than V2 plastic. The V2 service pack gives you a host of spare parts though, all the same as fitted standard to the XTR and other V2 cars, though some are not up to XTR spec. Unfortunately, the CVD’s are at risk when the pillow balls pop, 2 out of 9 or 10 times for me. My first wing shattered like glass on first impact, Corally replaced it under warranty and it’s survived since. The replacement feels much more flexible than the original. I don’t accept the “bad batch of steering knuckles”, I’ve gone through too many for it to be pot luck, they’re all bad IMHO. Maybe the new batch, using the original part number but an improved material, are better? You have no idea if you have them though! No, I won’t be spending any more money on pot luck, buying the original parts, it’s pointless. The definition of stupidity is repeatedly doing the same thing, expecting the outcome to be different. When the re-designed parts arrive, I’ll be obtaining and fitting them if I can, then the Achilles Heel of the Kronos should be history, fingers crossed. Corally have no control over the current global supply issues though, so it looks like we’ll have to wait I’m afraid. Until then, hopefully they send you enough parts to get you back up and running and keep things that way for much much longer this time. Cheers Steve He's still not said what he's sending me yet but from what i can gather it's just going to be a service pack 2. I'm getting a new pair of knuckles when i get the car back but the one that popped was OK so i think i'm going to re-use that, wait until it pops again, then put the new knuckles on with the Arrma balls and see how i get on with them, i know it's not a permanent fix, but hopefully they will hold on long enough until the "new" batch comes out. It's not like i'm jumping it 20 feet in the air or anything i think the highest it will get is about 5 feet where i'm using it at the minute, I'm scared to take it to the bmx track. I guess i'll just have to work on my landings 😁 to be fair though i didn't crash it once in the 40 minutes i got out of it and only 1 "bad" landing that didn't break anything! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scottyb Posted October 9, 2021 Share Posted October 9, 2021 (edited) Beautiful day and not getting it until Monday now 😥 DPD 💩💩💩💩 I thought i had a 25kg servo but it's actually 20kg and was a bit lackluster, would a 36kg be ok or a bit overkill? I want something i can run on 7.4V too. I've heard the ecoboost ones are pretty good for a budget servo - Link Edited October 9, 2021 by Scottyb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tug Posted October 9, 2021 Share Posted October 9, 2021 On that scale of truck, I'd prefer 25 as a minimum. Transition speed on a basher is less critical, but faster is definitely better. I'm a servo snob, buy expensive, buy once. I favour Hitec over all others. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scottyb Posted October 9, 2021 Share Posted October 9, 2021 I don't think i'll be spending £70-£100 on a servo just yet, most of that will going in to keep it working at this point i think.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kpowell911 Posted October 9, 2021 Share Posted October 9, 2021 (edited) 37 minutes ago, Tug said: On that scale of truck, I'd prefer 25 as a minimum. Transition speed on a basher is less critical, but faster is definitely better. I'm a servo snob, buy expensive, buy once. I favour Hitec over all others. Im a servo snob too. However I think 20kg is more than fine BUT its got to be a genuine 20kg. Ive no confidence in these Aliexpress/Amazom/Banggood Servo’s. They simply arent near their so called specs. I tried them, theyre simply nowhere near their advertised stats. Facebook and Youtubers parroting these JX/Red Case servo’s are idiots whove not used a proper servo. A poor steering servo completely ruins the driving experience, particularly if its too slow. Get a proper 20kg+ servo from a reputable place. Doesnt have to break the bank. Look at some PowerHDs etc Edited October 9, 2021 by Kpowell911 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chrisboogie Posted October 9, 2021 Share Posted October 9, 2021 On 08/10/2021 at 05:28, Scottyb said: I don't think anyone makes them in the UK/EU, Last time i bought something from the states i had to pay what i paid for the item in tax... There's a guy in netherlands making 7075 ones but they're not on his website atm What that's crazy so you can't just order them from hot racing website Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scottyb Posted October 9, 2021 Share Posted October 9, 2021 1 minute ago, Chrisboogie said: What that's crazy so you can't just order them from hot racing website You can but you have to pay import tax on this end as it's not covered. I bought some halloween masks a few years ago for a party from the states, they were £35 each but had to pay import tax when they got here so were £60 each.... 5 minutes ago, Kpowell911 said: Im a servo snob too. However I think 20kg is more than fine BUT its got to be a genuine 20kg. Ive no confidence in these Aliexpress/Amazom/Banggood Servo’s. They simply arent near their so called specs. I tried them, theyre simply nowhere near their advertised stats. Facebook and Youtubers parroting these JX/Red Case servo’s are idiots whove not used a proper servo. A poor steering servo completely ruins the driving experience, particularly if its too slow. Get a proper 20kg+ servo from a reputable place. Doesnt have to break the bank. Look at some PowerHDs etc I've got one of those cheap 💩 20kg DSServo's off Amazon atm, i've had it in 3 cars and it's not THAT bad. Just felt like it was lacking with the size of the Kronos. I want to upgrade to a coreless 7.4v one though. I can run my fans on a higher voltage aswell then. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kpowell911 Posted October 9, 2021 Share Posted October 9, 2021 A Main do some HR stuff and I rarely get Taxxed from them….. obviously still a risk itll happen but I have more slip through than not Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scottyb Posted October 11, 2021 Share Posted October 11, 2021 (edited) People keep saying to adjust the droop so it's level to avoid it popping aswell, but i don't know how much to adjust it by? Should i do it so the arms are level with nothing attached or what? Edited October 11, 2021 by Scottyb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stormbringer Posted October 11, 2021 Share Posted October 11, 2021 drop the car from about a foot high so it lands level and arms should be level after that if not adjust the preload till arms are level after dropping it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scottyb Posted October 11, 2021 Share Posted October 11, 2021 ok cheers mate, I did adjust them before i took it out the first time so i had to compress it about 5mm before i could screw it on but obviously that didn't help much Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stormbringer Posted October 11, 2021 Share Posted October 11, 2021 (edited) also theres little screws in the arms they adjust so that if the arms in full down position its them hitting the chassis and not the shocks stopping the arms i usually sit the car/truck on a box so whheels of ground then tighten the screws till the arms move up a couple of mm (just incase you didnt know mate) Edited October 11, 2021 by Stormbringer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scottyb Posted October 11, 2021 Share Posted October 11, 2021 yea thats what i did the first time. i'll get them a bit more level this time though as they were still hanging down a fair bit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darren Frosty Posted October 12, 2021 Share Posted October 12, 2021 Apparently the new blocks have arrived and will be available from the Corally site from Thursday, whether that's the cheap/free deal for existing owners or not I am not sure. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scottyb Posted October 12, 2021 Share Posted October 12, 2021 Well no breakages today but i had to take it easy as i lost shock oil all over the car about 10mins into the first battery. Was my fault though i must have loosened the top cap off when i tightened up the preload before i went out and didn't notice. What a flippin mess 🤦♂️😂 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darren Frosty Posted October 12, 2021 Share Posted October 12, 2021 I also did that, all over the Radix and then dust stuck to it then more oil then more dust! White spirit gets the silicon oil off well though. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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