HYPER-BOY Posted May 31, 2019 Share Posted May 31, 2019 Stunning that mate! - that's going to be a beast. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markymarky Posted June 4, 2019 Share Posted June 4, 2019 It had to be done, couldn't resist any longer https://rc-car-online.de/en/products/tlr_05001_elektro-losi-tlr-5ive-b-e-1:5-electric-4wd-buggy-race-kit-incl-engine-control.html Didn't go with the full blown BEAST version though, didn't have that much cash to spare 😂 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
.AJ. Posted June 4, 2019 Author Share Posted June 4, 2019 Awesome! Make sure you start a thread when you start the build 👍 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markymarky Posted June 7, 2019 Share Posted June 7, 2019 How come your shock O rings are showing, the ones at the top of the cap I mean. I thought they went up inside the cap rather than between the cap and the top of the shock body? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
.AJ. Posted June 7, 2019 Author Share Posted June 7, 2019 Dunno, I must have done them wrong, they don’t leak so I’ll leave them be Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
.AJ. Posted June 7, 2019 Author Share Posted June 7, 2019 I’m not the only one 😆 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Justdriftin Posted June 17, 2019 Share Posted June 17, 2019 I think there may be a few reasons the FID Voltz is rated for 8s. I've just had my second rotor blow apart on 12s in my 5ive-B. I monitor temp with telemetry, never went over 175f with either one. Through some searching I've found two people who have experienced the same. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U_bjOp_bXvc&app=desktop At first I thought it must be cheaper glue used on the magnets that can't handle a high temp range. The one in the video happened unloaded on 12s in storage charge, during a kv check, so it seems that's not the case. One person in the comments also had it happen. There's a video on the same account of rewrapping with extra Kevlar, he mentions blowing a second rotor in the comments. It's disappointing, figured I should warn whoever I can. P.S. The buggy looks great! Nice job Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markymarky Posted June 19, 2019 Share Posted June 19, 2019 Okay, possibly stupid question The EC8 connectors. Are the connectors themselves supposed to go into the housing from the front or the back? I tried putting the housing on first then soldering on the connector itself and pushing it back into the housing, couldn't get it to budge. Then I tried soldering the connector on first and pushing it into the housing from the back, couldn't get them to go in that way either I appreciate it is supposed to be tight but I couldn't get them together however I tried. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
.AJ. Posted June 19, 2019 Author Share Posted June 19, 2019 I soldered the Bullet first, then rested it on a upturned screwdriver and then bashed the housing on with a rubber mallet, Hope that makes sense lol 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
.AJ. Posted June 19, 2019 Author Share Posted June 19, 2019 On 17/06/2019 at 21:37, Justdriftin said: I think there may be a few reasons the FID Voltz is rated for 8s. I've just had my second rotor blow apart on 12s in my 5ive-B. I monitor temp with telemetry, never went over 175f with either one. Through some searching I've found two people who have experienced the same. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U_bjOp_bXvc&app=desktop At first I thought it must be cheaper glue used on the magnets that can't handle a high temp range. The one in the video happened unloaded on 12s in storage charge, during a kv check, so it seems that's not the case. One person in the comments also had it happen. There's a video on the same account of rewrapping with extra Kevlar, he mentions blowing a second rotor in the comments. It's disappointing, figured I should warn whoever I can. P.S. The buggy looks great! Nice job What motors have you killed? The FID or ZTW? I’ve not heard of a issue until you posted this, but touch wood I’ve had no problems so far Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markymarky Posted June 19, 2019 Share Posted June 19, 2019 24 minutes ago, .AJ. said: I soldered the Bullet first, then rested it on a upturned screwdriver and then bashed the housing on with a rubber mallet, Hope that makes sense lol Just been playing Have found I can push the connector in from the front. Using a 10mm drill bit in the front of the battery end connector and with some effort it does snap in. Just wanted to see how easy they were to assemble before getting the lipos. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
.AJ. Posted June 19, 2019 Author Share Posted June 19, 2019 A swift wallop and they go together fine 😂 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Justdriftin Posted June 19, 2019 Share Posted June 19, 2019 8 minutes ago, .AJ. said: What motors have you killed? The FID or ZTW? I’ve not heard of a issue until you posted this, but touch wood I’ve had no problems so far One ZTW, one Surpass, both 620kv. How hot have you gotten yours? You do reach your top speed occasionally right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
.AJ. Posted June 19, 2019 Author Share Posted June 19, 2019 I drive mine flat out, but I’ve never free rev’d the motor like the guy on YouTube, that’s a huge no for any brushless motor, I did check the temps the first time I ran it and it was only around 50oC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Justdriftin Posted June 19, 2019 Share Posted June 19, 2019 I thought the only damage that could be done by free revving was if it were possible to go over the motors max rpm rating with the voltage you're using. Short bursts only of course. My guess is that the same people who make the hobbystar motors, make these motors. Seems odd that their smaller 56112 has a 30krpm max while this is rated for 35krpm. If you're having luck I'll hold out hope and bring the temps down a bit. One seller is sending a replacement. The other a refund. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
.AJ. Posted June 20, 2019 Author Share Posted June 20, 2019 We will see how it lasts, if it breaks then I’ll think again. Earlier in my thread I had someone start ranting that the esc would blow up and set on fire first time I run it and it’s been great so far, if the motor does fail the first thing I would do is drop down to 10s, let’s be honest 12s is a bit ott 😂😂😂 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Justdriftin Posted June 20, 2019 Share Posted June 20, 2019 That's why I said what I did. The speed control may not like that much weight, but the 680kv version of this motor might also be a limiting factor for the voltz. I've been running the ztw esc on 12s exclusively since I got the 5ive in January. Geared for 65mph with a castle 2028, absolutely shredding up fields. It hasn't had an easy life. I was skeptical when I first got it, not anymore. Never gets over 120f using mechanical brakes. If this motor won't handle 12s I'll put the 2028 back in. Just a bit of a hit after having to buy the specific motor mount. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
.AJ. Posted June 20, 2019 Author Share Posted June 20, 2019 A 2028 sounds like a good back up plan 👍 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tug Posted June 20, 2019 Share Posted June 20, 2019 1 hour ago, Justdriftin said: That's why I said what I did. The speed control may not like that much weight, but the 680kv version of this motor might also be a limiting factor for the voltz. I've been running the ztw esc on 12s exclusively since I got the 5ive in January. Geared for 65mph with a castle 2028, absolutely shredding up fields. It hasn't had an easy life. I was skeptical when I first got it, not anymore. Never gets over 120f using mechanical brakes. If this motor won't handle 12s I'll put the 2028 back in. Just a bit of a hit after having to buy the specific motor mount. What gearing for 65 on 12S through a 2028? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Justdriftin Posted June 20, 2019 Share Posted June 20, 2019 16/58 with stock wheels and tires. Turnigy graphene panther 6000s. Speed calculator puts that around 67-68 I think but 65 was the best I've done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tug Posted June 20, 2019 Share Posted June 20, 2019 12 cells through a 2028 wearing a 16 tooth pinion? I'm surprised and confused at your temps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
targetingxmod Posted June 20, 2019 Share Posted June 20, 2019 1 hour ago, Justdriftin said: 16/58 with stock wheels and tires. Turnigy graphene panther 6000s. Speed calculator puts that around 67-68 I think but 65 was the best I've done. Runtime with the 6a 6s ? You use 2 6s 6a, right? Total 6a but 12s. What is the runtime, medium!?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
.AJ. Posted June 20, 2019 Author Share Posted June 20, 2019 Runtime depends on how you drive, I get 10-12mins flat out and 16-20mins if driving slower round a set out track, thats on 6000mah 12s, but generally I only run 5 mins at a time and then bring the buggy in to check temps etc.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scoobyslayer Posted June 20, 2019 Share Posted June 20, 2019 (edited) well I have bitten the bullet and ordered the tlr conversion kit. can aj or anyone else please explain in simple terms how to setup the mechanical brake servo? I have a sanwa m12 radio if that helps. its the only part of the build I think I will struggle with lol I have a brushless Baja 5b but that uses the motor to apply the brakes. would that not be a good idea with the tlr 5b? Edited June 20, 2019 by Scoobyslayer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
.AJ. Posted June 20, 2019 Author Share Posted June 20, 2019 Read up on channel mixing in the manual, or be lazy and just run a Y lead from the throttle channel on the RX 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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