Hobao Hyper VS(e) Owners Thread

[Zoidburg]

I've now done the rear twin brace conversion and CNC rear arm holder which has made a big difference. Unfortunately I bent the front of the chassis and front prop shaft on a hidden tree root last bash so a 7075 chassis and front arm holder will be on order when pay day comes around.

I do manage break rear wings constantly though, especially on 6s as I struggle to keep the front end down on high traction surfaces like grass.

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[RCpete]

17 hours ago, Zoidburg said:

I've now done the rear twin brace conversion and CNC rear arm holder which has made a big difference. Unfortunately I bent the front of the chassis and front prop shaft on a hidden tree root last bash so a 7075 chassis and front arm holder will be on order when pay day comes around.

I do manage break rear wings constantly though, especially on 6s as I struggle to keep the front end down on high traction surfaces like grass.

Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk
 

 

 I've broken two rear wings also, I have an old wing (can't remember what make) but it's much more flexible than the stock one and won't break.....you could get another stock wing and then boil it to make it a touch more flexible, that might work??.

[martin staines]

I almost immediately bent the chassis, I put it on a surface plate on its shock towers and it rocks from corner to corner considerably, the CNC chassis is definitely on the cards as is custom tower to tower bracing, especially as I have just tried it on 6s for the first time and it was ballistic!!!! Thanks for the tips and will be swapping out the body for a mp9.

[martin staines]

I almost immediately bent the chassis, I put it on a surface plate on its shock towers and it rocks from corner to corner considerably, the CNC chassis is definitely on the cards as is custom tower to tower bracing, especially as I have just tried it on 6s for the first time and it was ballistic!!!! Thanks for the tips and will be swapping out the body for a mp9.

[martin staines]

Ps Already got the cnc bottom arm braces

[V8BJC]

Hi there,

 

I am new to the hobby and have just purchased the RTR Hobao Hyper VSe.  The car looks great and I am really impressed with the build quality but for a total newbie the instructions are less than complete and I have some really basic questions that I hope you can help me with to get up and running

 

The purple tube in the photo below was in the box but there is nothing to explain what it is for - is this something to do with the receiver antenna ?

Is the wire sticking out from the side of the car in the second picture below for the receiver antenna? does this lay loose in the car under the body? 

What is the silver spring mounted on the side of the receiver box?

 

 

The car looked low to the ground out of the box. I will be using it initially in local parks on a mix of grass and dirt tracks. Is it best to set a higher ride height. I currently have the adjuster on the shocks set half way down the threaded section. What would you advise to start?

 

Sorry for the first day at school questions  

 

Brian

 

 

 

 

[Nathanio]

That's the aerial tube. It can be cut down as you can see the 2.4GHz aerial is quite short. I don't have a VSe but I believe the aerial holder is that spring by the servo. 

[V8BJC]

Thanks Nathanio, 

 

Is it necessary for the arial to pass through the body or can it stay under the body?  Seems a shame to drill a hole in the body

 

TIA

 

Brian  

[Kukynas]

It can stay under the body

[V8BJC]

48 minutes ago, Kukynas said:

It can stay under the body

 

Super, thanks 

[Mart6s]

Hello everyone, thought I would upload a few pictures of my hyper vs e that's been of the road for a while, I had issues with the kit quality after purchase recently which I had moaned about on this forum a few weeks ago. Now after some time sourcing various parts it's back, but still a work in progress. The upper and lower suspension mounts have been machined in a nice 4mm carbon by the guys at fibre lite, which incedently they had no previous experience with this particular car so I sent off the ali bits which they copied, so if anyone wants to replace theirs just give Stephen a call at hansell composites, fibrelite. Note also I have replaced the vast majority of screws with torx screws, so much better! I drilled all the way through the differential housing to facilitate a longer 4mm screw and nylock nut, and increased the length of the other half of the differential housing screw without any modification thus preventing the threads shearing so easily. Please take a look at the pictures, your comments are most welcome. Also does anybody have advice as to the best tyres for running 6s, as you will notice from the pictures the cheap Chinese manufactured tyres I purchased on bang good are bang crap and I have destroyed two sets before even cycling one battery! I was going to upload images but not able to due to the file size!

[Mart6s]

[Mart6s]

[Jumper]

Get some proline badlands. They will last ages and should stay in one piece for a long time 

[Mart6s]

22 hours ago, Jumper said:

Get some proline badlands. They will last ages and should stay in one piece for a long time 

That seems to be the general consensus, thanks mate

[Jumper]

2 hours ago, Mart6s said:

That seems to be the general consensus, thanks mate

its the standard bashing tyre for high powered rigs. 

[V8BJC]

Hi All, I am using 2x 2s lipos but looking for greater run time than the 30 mins ish I am getting.

 

Can anyone recommend the best batteries for some longer run time  

 

Thanks in advance

Brian

[bertberr]

Hmmm, IMO 30 mins for a 4S 1/8 basher is pretty good...  I usually break something well before the packs are done 😁

Without wishing to sound crass, how about 2 x 2S packs? Would give you an hours play time, and without the worry of a cell going down on some mega money high capacity 4S brick.

[V8BJC]

11 hours ago, bertberr said:

Hmmm, IMO 30 mins for a 4S 1/8 basher is pretty good...  I usually break something well before the packs are done 😁

Without wishing to sound crass, how about 2 x 2S packs? Would give you an hours play time, and without the worry of a cell going down on some mega money high capacity 4S brick.

 

Thanks bertberr, luckily nothing has broken yet, maybe I need to try harder 😁

 

I like the idea of identical packs as this eliminates the potential for mishaps/risks with charging. I could just get two more identical batteries to what I already have but wondered if there is a better solution. Are some makers of batteries generally accepted to be better than others?  Not worried about increasing speed at this point, just longer run time. 

[Bluebeetle]

Got my first 1/8 last week, a slightly used VS-e Pro..  Always wanted one, ever since the Turbo Burns was introduced somewhere in the eighties but I´ve never been keen on nitro..

 

Hw 4274 2250kV motor and Hw 8BL150A V2 Esc. 

 

Proline Badlands and kit tyres.

 

Paid 250 euros without the esc (which was on sale for 89 euros)

[RobinP]

Hi been following this thread for a while, do any of you have a video or know where i can find one that shows the diffs being broken down to clean out the grease and repkace with oil.  I dont usually buy rtr  but im just getting back into rc after a few years out and wanted somethingto get me back into it fairly quickly and easily i have a hyper VSe.

 

[bertberr]

Hi, any YT vid on diff rebuilding/maintenance for a 1/8 buggy, particularly a Hyper 7 or 8 would give you the basics.  They're pretty straight forward compared to some 1/10 4x4's, as its all pretty modular.  The whole front or rear bulkheads inc. diff just come away from the chassis in one piece.

[RobinP]

6 hours ago, bertberr said:

Hi, any YT vid on diff rebuilding/maintenance for a 1/8 buggy, particularly a Hyper 7 or 8 would give you the basics.  They're pretty straight forward compared to some 1/10 4x4's, as its all pretty modular.  The whole front or rear bulkheads inc. diff just come away from the chassis in one piece.

Cheers

 

[Jereme M]

On 29/06/2018 at 06:48, OllieNZ said:

You broke the rounded one?

 

I broke the rear hanger on the front diff (the square one) and did consider getting the ally set but decided that it's a cheap and easy to replace weak link.

 

Anyone Know the steps required to replace the front rear one, the squared one, it would be my first time working on this rc seems like I would have to remove atleast the front chassis brace, dog bone possibly the center diff to even get a driver low enough to get the screw in the middle out, i'd probably need a ball end driver too just guessing here.. I bought the CNC replacment but i'll pretty much be winging the install when I get it lol 😕 anyone know what size driver is needed for that center screw?

[alxius]

hi,

the fast way to replace the front or rear Lower Arm Holders is to unscrew the bolts that hold the differential assemblies (6 bolts each) on the chassis and also in case of the rear arm holder you have to unscrew the bolt that holds the rear differential case on the rear brace. This way you take out the whole rear system in one piece and you have easy access on the screw that holds the lower arm holder. The same way is for the front lower arm holder plus 3 more screws (2 for steering axes on top plate and one for the lexan body holder which bothers to unscrew the front brace).