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FTX Outlaw Owners


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OK thanks, that helped.  I've now set toe in correct without the servo horn connected, it turns left and right equal.  But the turning circle is still awful.  If I set the steering dual rate dial full on the steering is good, but is that correct?  Surely it should have a good turning circle with the dual rate set in the middle - no?

Hi. My sons is the same. Rubbish turning circle.
I’m sorry to say you’re setting the wheels up in the wrong way.
Toe in makes a car track straiter at high speeds.
Toe out makes for twitchier strait lines high speed, but aids turning.
You need toe out.
Can’t believe no one has prompted you on that.
Camber in or negative camber will keep more rubber flat on the ground when cornering.
Hope that helps.


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My Outlaw is still on the original spur and plastic rear driveshaft.

I run a Orion 9.5t brushless motor ( not ideal, gets a bit hot but had it spare)

On 2s only, plenty quick enough for my needs.

Gets a good beating on my local hill climb.

Have broken lots of other plastic parts. But they are cheap and easy to get.

Edited by steephill
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24 minutes ago, Ollykamakazi said:


Hi. My sons is the same. Rubbish turning circle.
I’m sorry to say you’re setting the wheels up in the wrong way.
Toe in makes a car track straiter at high speeds.
Toe out makes for twitchier strait lines high speed, but aids turning.
You need toe out.
Can’t believe no one has prompted you on that.
Camber in or negative camber will keep more rubber flat on the ground when cornering.
Hope that helps.


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Cheers, I had no idea about that.  At least I'll set the toe straight tomorrow.  I will play around with the camber.

 

Good that these cars are easy to adjust, it helps the learning curve!

 

Hopefully my new 17kg metal gear servo will help.

 

Still loving the car......

Edited by mark-essex
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Bought some new wheels/tyres for the car, made by Austar. When I fit them on the car and tighten up the nut the wheels binds at the back.  I've read about this somewhere before but now can't find it despite looking!

 

What's the best remedy?  If I back off the nut it's fine but I'm concerned the nut may come off and I'd lose it or the wheel!

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Bought some new wheels/tyres for the car, made by Austar. When I fit them on the car and tighten up the nut the wheels binds at the back.  I've read about this somewhere before but now can't find it despite looking!
 
What's the best remedy?  If I back off the nut it's fine but I'm concerned the nut may come off and I'd lose it or the wheel!
Solved with 12mm hex extensions [emoji106]
eBay [emoji6]

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31 minutes ago, DartmoorTrails said:

Solved with 12mm hex extensions emoji106.png
eBay emoji6.png

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So is that just a slightly wider hex (presume that's the plastic piece that the wheel fits on to) and I measure what I have and get something a couple of mm wider?  Are they all a standard fitting?

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So is that just a slightly wider hex (presume that's the plastic piece that the wheel fits on to) and I measure what I have and get something a couple of mm wider?  Are they all a standard fitting?
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F112319786509
So the width is the standard 12mm hex, but the length is also 12mm so your wheels stand off from the hubs / lockouts.
They're also not plastic which is an added benefit [emoji106]
Just make sure to use a medium thread lock on them as there's not a nylon ring to bite into [emoji6]

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2 minutes ago, DartmoorTrails said:

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F112319786509
So the width is the standard 12mm hex, but the length is also 12mm so your wheels stand off from the hubs / lockouts.
They're also not plastic which is an added benefit emoji106.png
Just make sure to use a medium thread lock on them as there's not a nylon ring to bite into emoji6.png

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Thanks for the link.  I understand the concept that I need the hex deeper, can't quit make out what the various bits are in the picture - I need to take my hex off tonight and have a look what it consists of.  Cheers.

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Thanks for the link.  I understand the concept that I need the hex deeper, can't quit make out what the various bits are in the picture - I need to take my hex off tonight and have a look what it consists of.  Cheers.
Pin goes through the shaft.
Black hex slides onto the pin and creates the mount for your wheel.
Silver nut goes into the hex recess and locks into the shaft [emoji6]

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Relatively new owner here after a bit of advice. Brushless (from new) Outlaw. Was running it this afternoon and suffered occasional loss of drive along with heavy cogging (I think that's what it was). Came home to investigate and found the motor was loose on its mount. Stripped it back, tightened the motor and re-assembled (noted that that cogs were in good order). No adjustment when putting motor back?) Ran the car again and although it's running better it still seems to cog more than usual (occasional 'jump' starts)and I had one other loss of drive which rectified itself. It seems to run smooth in reverse. Any ideas what I should look at? TIA.

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Yeah, there's no adjustment for the motor position. What motor're & esc are you running? Mine cogged at low speed with the 60a esc, I fitted a 120a esc but I ain't done any slow stuff with it yet ,so I don't know if it's gonna cog or not.

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Original/standard motor and ESC.  Just been looking at the car and not sure if this might have caused it but the RX aerial was zip tied up against the motor wires...something I done when I upgraded the steering servo.  I've just moved the aerial (zip tied vertical along the chassis) and after a short run in the garden it seems OK.

 

If you were to push hard down on the car when it's on the ground and accelerate what should happen, what gives?  Does the driveshaft still turn and turn the wheels, do the gears slip?  Just something that I noticed and wondered what should happen.  Trying to diagnose between mechanical and electrical issue...if there is one.

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I've only tried it in the garden since the mod and it was pouring with rain.  The 'twist' on acceleration seems to be better but hard to tell when there's not maximum grip.  Was fun though!

 

Yesterday's session (pre-mod but running good) was a blast, I can't imagine any other car could give this much fun for the money, I love it.

 

Thing is, what to buy next.... ?

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Nice jump.

 

Can I ask whether the Outaw crew have any issues with the main crown and pinion gears inside the gearbox? Over at the Carnage/Vantage thread we are all having a few issues with them losing teeth.

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Im coming back to the idea of getting an outlaw as a second car, was looking at brushed and brushless, im sure a few of you will shout...go brushless but im thinking brushed and at later date put a hotter 540 in it, what would be a good brushed motor upgrade for this car

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Im coming back to the idea of getting an outlaw as a second car, was looking at brushed and brushless, im sure a few of you will shout...go brushless but im thinking brushed and at later date put a hotter 540 in it, what would be a good brushed motor upgrade for this car
Depends on budget I suppose, but first thing I'd do is see if you can squeeze a 550 can in there. Probably something in this thread about sizes you can squeeze in...
Then I'd get a spare pinion of whatever size it doesn't come with, along with the aluminium mount for that pinion setup.
Good brushed for bashing could be Traxxas perhaps?
Don't think you need to spend too much for this application [emoji106]

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