FTX Outlaw Owners

[ADH66]

There is a small problem when zooming through the woods, or at least mine, for some bloody reason odd bits of bricks seem to attract to the bloody outlaw. Just had castle esc plugged in for tuning, going to try it with 20% drag brake as it bloody freewheeled a fair old distance with no drag brake, also seems to dip front down a touch when jumping / dropping off stuff so applied a touch of throttle to land it good, bloody bargain though and really impressed with the brand FTX on both this and my outback

I ran mine when stock with drag brake for looning around the car park racing Terry's Vaterra.

Not sure what stock settings are on the new esc.

But I'll be tinkering as drag brake real good for downhill stuff.

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[just rolling]

11 hours ago, ADH66 said:

I ran mine when stock with drag brake for looning around the car park racing Terry's Vaterra.

Not sure what stock settings are on the new esc.

But I'll be tinkering as drag brake real good for downhill stuff.

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trying to get a balance so each of my vehicles is good for different stuff, the outlaw can be my forest racer

[t2boats]

5 hours ago, just rolling said:

the outlaw can be my forest racer

 

Liking that term "Racer", after all they're a Rock Racer based on the crazy Ultra-4 competition, not a crawler! When I originally ordered my Outlaw I began looking into this Ultra-4, good grief - couldn't get over how quick they were scaling rocky terrain! And handled the abuse aswell.. serious off-roading that is. 

[just rolling]

Took it to a bmx track, always a bad bloody idea, some good jumps and a few not so good lol, took some abuse until 1 of the top links? on the rear snapped, it did take a lot though and handles great on rough stuff, much better suited to rough ground or forest exploring 

[ADH66]

Took it to a bmx track, always a bad bloody idea, some good jumps and a few not so good lol, took some abuse until 1 of the top links? on the rear snapped, it did take a lot though and handles great on rough stuff, much better suited to rough ground or forest exploring 

Lol, yes it's a fast Explorer. Zooming about forest trails etc. Not getting 5ft on a concrete skatepark.



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[just rolling]

58 minutes ago, ADH66 said:

Lol, yes it's staying as a fast explorer. Zooming about forest trails etc. Not getting 5ft on a concrete skatepark.



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Lesson learned from today, staying as a fast forest explorer lol, luckily when i bought the few upgrades i got some spares as they were so cheap and i have a pack of the rear top arm things, yahoo all fixed again, handles great over the rough stuff where my 1/8 buggy was turd

[bieomax]

Done a little more metallic look to the frame tonight, going to start sorting the other panels, also rubbed some silver into the existing roof scratches



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[0xdeadbeef]

I recently bought a Reely Bulldog (which is another VRX Octane / FTX Outlaw incarnation) on eBay. Unfortunately, only after I removed the motor for a brushless conversion (ongoing since I'm waiting for parts) I noticed that the front diff wasn't exactly running smooth. My first impression was that it was skipping teeth, so I took the whole front assembly apart to take a look inside the front gearbox. However, when I finally got access to the actual differential, everything looked perfectly fine. The only thing I noticed was that the differential was somewhat skewed inside the gearbox. It looks like the side is pushed up that sits on the bevel gear from the axle - which is to be expected to some degree I guess.

Anyway, as long as the gearbox is open, the diff is running smoothly but as soon as I close it tight, the initial problem is back. I guess what happens is that closing the gearbox forces the differential closer to the bevel gear and some (invisible) roughness in the gears leads to the judder. Actually, there are two or three teeth where the differential nearly gets stuck when the axle is turned by hand.

So to make a long story short: is this normal for a new diff and will disappear after some running-in or is this something to be concerned about and that will lead to a total failure sooner or later?

Like at the moment, I'm considering buying a fully assembled FTX Carnage front diff (which should be the same as the Outlaw's diff) since I can't really see how to fix this issue with my diff and there doesn't seem to be a complete front diff as spare from Reely for the Bulldog or from FTX for the Outlaw.

However, if this behavior is normal, this would be a bit like pouring money down the drain.

[bieomax]

Be the sounds of it mine was doing the same, i ended up adjusting the shims, but have yet to test if its going to have a weakening effect on the diff.

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[0xdeadbeef]

Hm, which shims exactly? My impression is that the drive pinion might be a bit too high (reaching too far inside the gearbox) and thus skews the ring gear. So if at all, I'd need to remove/reduce a shim but I somewhat doubt there's one below the drive pinion. Or is there one? Didn't take it apart.

Besides, I didn't really find out why it gets stuck at a certain position. The gears actually looked OK. Maybe additionally the whole ring gear is slightly bent or whatever but it didn't really look like it, either.

For the moment, I kinda gave up and ordered a new front diff. I'm not really looking forward to exchange it though. Unscrewing and fastening all the damn screws with this small Allen key is a PITA and after the 2nd time it feels the plastic threads won't survive much more screw/unscrew cycles.

 

[ph678]

does anyone know of any direct replacement stiffer springs. Sorry if ive missed it out on this thread but I thought id ask. I'm only after the fronts although if anyone knows of rears too thatd be handy  

cheers

Pete

[just rolling]

5 minutes ago, ph678 said:

does anyone know of any direct replacement stiffer springs. Sorry if ive missed it out on this thread but I thought id ask. I'm only after the fronts although if anyone knows of rears too thatd be handy  

cheers

Pete

hi Pete, i just changed my shock oil to 40wt and they were not totally full, i managed to just stretch my springs a bit and they work a lot better, don't pull to hard though if you try

[ph678]

I changed the weight to 80wt and that works well for me. I'll try stretching them a bit. Never thought of that.

thanks  

 

[0xdeadbeef]

Sorry, another stupid question: got the steel driveshaft today but the screws are extremely loose compared to the ones in the plastic driveshaft. Besides the thread in the original screw is longer. Anyway, even the original screws sit loose in the metal driveshaft. Is this supposed to be this way and did you just fix the two screws with Loctite or is there something I overlook?

[t2boats]

6 minutes ago, 0xdeadbeef said:

Sorry, another stupid question: got the steel driveshaft today but the screws are extremely loose compared to the ones in the plastic driveshaft. Besides the thread in the original screw is longer. Anyway, even the original screws sit loose in the metal driveshaft. Is this supposed to be this way and did you just fix the two screws with Loctite or is there something I overlook?

 

Yep, simple cure is to use threadlock on the two small grubs. Little blob on the thread, screw in and leave it be for a while then let it rip!

[0xdeadbeef]

OK, thanks. Now all I'm missing is the steel pinion. And, well, the new front diff even though I might try the juddering diff first once the brushless conversion is finished.

[bieomax]

The shims on mine where on 2 output axles which if i shimmed as per manual 4 on one side and 2 on the other caused the dif to skew in the casing where as i altered the shimming to stop it pressing so hard on the input gear.

I did cheat a little on mine and used a drill on low speed to remove and then hand tighten

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[6ft4Crawler]

6 hours ago, ph678 said:

I changed the weight to 80wt and that works well for me. I'll try stretching them a bit. Never thought of that.

thanks  

 

80wt ? What on earth are you doing with your truck to require 80wt shock oil ? I've looked into running the stock shocks and springs extensively and found between 30wt and 45wt to be the only options worth looking at any thinner and it's to bounces and returns way to fast with minimal damping, and any thicker and the damper is far to much casing the suspension not to compress when needed and not to return to its typical ride height properly after a compression 80wt is in my opinion far to thick for anyt off road 1/10 scale vehicle I've ever come across 

[0xdeadbeef]

16 hours ago, bieomax said:

The shims on mine where on 2 output axles which if i shimmed as per manual 4 on one side and 2 on the other caused the dif to skew in the casing where as i altered the shimming to stop it pressing so hard on the input gear.

 

Can't find anything like that in my (rather short) Reely Bulldog manual. There was also only one shim on each side. But I see your point.

I actually didn't consider the beveling. Of course shifting the ring gear to the side also adds/removes pressure on/from the driveshaft pinion (at the price of backlash I guess).
I would think I'd need quite a bit of offset to improve the situation, so I'd need some fitting shims.

Anyway, I already ordered the replacement front diff, so let's hope it's working better.

 

 

[ph678]

14 hours ago, 6ft4Crawler said:

80wt ? What on earth are you doing with your truck to require 80wt shock oil ? I've looked into running the stock shocks and springs extensively and found between 30wt and 45wt to be the only options worth looking at any thinner and it's to bounces and returns way to fast with minimal damping, and any thicker and the damper is far to much casing the suspension not to compress when needed and not to return to its typical ride height properly after a compression 80wt is in my opinion far to thick for anyt off road 1/10 scale vehicle I've ever come across 

 

ive used ALL different weights of oil in my cars over the years but have found what works best for me and my driving style. I don't just use this truck for crawling. It gets jumped HARD so the higher weight is crucial in my circumstances as I hate bottoming out the suspension on a hard land or an akward one. Drop offs and all sorts so the higher weight compensates. It drives just as I like it and handles a treat for me so I think its a case of each to there own  .

Pete

[ADH66]

 
ive used ALL different weights of oil in my cars over the years but have found what works best for me and my driving style. I don't just use this truck for crawling. It gets jumped HARD so the higher weight is crucial in my circumstances as I hate bottoming out the suspension on a hard land or an akward one. Drop offs and all sorts so the higher weight compensates. It drives just as I like it and handles a treat for me so I think its a case of each to there own [emoji4] .
Pete

Fair play. I've got 60wt in mine and tho untested it sure feels good. Each to their own indeed.

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[just rolling]

Had a nice zoom about the forest today, prefer it with no drag brake on then just a little brake applied when rolling down steep stuff, jolly good fun and nothing broke

[lifeofbwyan]

Noob question for you knowledgable Outlaw owners - I'm just back to RC after a 35 year hiatus from Tamiyas.

 

The Outlaw is great fun for my current skill level but I want to dumb it down for my 7 year old. I'd prefer at this point to make a simple / cheap mod until I'm more sure if I want to invest in better RC/ESC etc. Following this thread I'm thinking that getting a 35turn motor may be a good option to slow it down - any thoughts or suggestions on this? My son has been watching rock crawl videos and is pretty keen on that (not many rocks round here though - just tree roots and kerbs) but I don't want to have too high a torque on the stock plastic drivetrain etc using a lathe motor. Crawler mode on the ESC just seems to enable more of a drag brake.

 

Motors seem to be quite cheap and assuming I get the right fit, an easy swap to/from the stock 15T 550 when I want to play. Perhaps another option is a switchable ESC compatible with the existing stock transmitter.

 

Fallback option is some rubber grommits on the throttle to limit movement but I'd rather my son had the full range to play with - just at reduced speed. Shame the stock transmitter doesn't have this option built-in  - I've not opened it up yet to see if it could easily be modified.

 

Cheers for any suggestions.

Edited September 29, 2017 by lifeofbwyan

[bieomax]

Noob question for you knowledgable Outlaw owners - I'm just back to RC after a 35 year hiatus from Tamiyas.
 
The Outlaw is great fun for my current skill level but I want to dumb it down for my 7 year old. I'd prefer at this point to make a simple / cheap mod until I'm more sure if I want to invest in better RC/ESC etc. Following this thread I'm thinking that getting a 35turn motor may be a good option to slow it down - any thoughts or suggestions on this? My son has been watching rock crawl videos and is pretty keen on that (not many rocks round here though - just tree roots and kerbs) but I don't want to have too high a torque on the stock plastic drivetrain etc using a lathe motor. Crawler mode on the ESC just seems to enable more of a drag brake.
 
Motors seem to be quite cheap and assuming I get the right fit, an easy swap to/from the stock 15T 550 when I want to play. Perhaps another option is a switchable ESC compatible with the existing stock transmitter.
 
Fallback option is some rubber grommits on the throttle to limit movement but I'd rather my son had the full range to play with - just at reduced speed. Shame the stock transmitter doesn't have this option built-in  - I've not opened it up yet to see if it could easily be modified.
 
Cheers for any suggestions.

You can also turn down the epa/end point adjustment on the default hand set which will just limit the output on the throttle

I think its the far right nob

Apologies for state of mine, I'm on a long running retrofit project for an old sanwa dash sabre just for a laugh

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[bieomax]

Been and bought a 10bl60 today to replace the 120 sct pro, initial fitting and a small run in the garage seems to work better than the sct pro (it actually stopped in sensored mode!)

Time to have a check into the firmware i think [emoji848]

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