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FTX Outlaw Owners


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13 minutes ago, johninderby said:

Seriously thinking of ordering a Mauler next week.  :whistling:

 

At least it takes a 540. Have a suitable Losi sensored crawler motor and Novak ESC that would drop right in. :D

 

          John

 

Ahh the joys of a spares box many years deep I suspect

 

Mauler looks to have all the right spec for not a lot of money. Mates have bought the Outback which are ok, enough for me to see the challenge in crawling, but far too light and far too narrow gauge so roll easy and bounce too much. 

Mauler is much wider and heavier. It may not have the sophistication of a £400 crawler but, hell, it'll do for winter fun for sure. 

 

 

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Impressed with my Outback which has "evolved" a bit and crawls well but still more of a scaler than pure crawler.
 
       John
 
 
IMG_1253.thumb.JPG.a433d296eb71cda5047c2d21f6945335.JPG
Looks nice. But wider track now? Mates have the grey Landie copy and the blue Toyota look a like. And they roll roll roll as soon as they traverse.

But wheel weights have been added and apparently things are much better now.

For £140 they are great fun. But the Mauler promises to be the next step up for pocket change extra. So I'm hanging out for that, so I can offset their extra few months practice with a better car haha

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Took mine out for a bash with the Beatle shell on and it turns out it's a bit too much of a tight fit and it split :crying: so it's going to get fibreglassed and only used for wet and messy stuff and back to original for the rough stuff. Other than that it held up well this time

20170824_145831-756x1008.jpg

20170824_145922-756x1008.jpg

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Well i just realized that the spur gear that comes with the brushless Outlaw is the 17t and not the 23t that i thought it was [emoji14] 
Class.

Mind, I ordered the 23t pinion instead of the 17t recently, as I didn't read the parts breakdown properly.

#facepalm

So I have spare 23t pinions. Helpfully. Not.

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24 minutes ago, ADH66 said:

Class.

Mind, I ordered the 23t pinion instead of the 17t recently, as I didn't read the parts breakdown properly.

#facepalm

So I have spare 23t pinions. Helpfully. Not.

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I'm sure you could fit it in using the 23t motor mount ;) 

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6 hours ago, johninderby said:

Seriously thinking of ordering a Mauler next week.  :whistling:

 

At least it takes a 540. Have a suitable Losi sensored crawler motor and Novak ESC that would drop right in. :D

 

          John

Ive got one pre ordered :D

Edited by 6ft4Crawler
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Its not a straight forward fit. The shaft on the motor needs 2mm taken off the end and the pinion I used I had to half in size as it was meant for a 600 helicopter.

Got the pinion from align-trex shop.

I used a clear bag to seal aound the motor first and pierced through the shaft then taped up round the shaft and the seal. This stops any fillings getting into the motor, Not that it probably could but I'm a bit anal about stuff like that!

the pinion I offered up to the chassis and marked it out then just got pliers on the end I wasn't going to use and took my time with a dremel and a thin metal cutting disc. Snapped a couple but that's just down to my unsteady hands!

heres a link to the pinion I used ....

https://www.align-trex.co.uk/17t-hard-one-0-6m-hardened-pinion-gear-5mm-shaft-ho-0600lh-17t.html

it looks nothing like the picture and more like this....

https://www.align-trex.co.uk/17t-hard-one-0-7m-hardened-pinion-gear-5mm-shaft-ho-0700h-17t.html

and the combo I used is this one....

https://www.modelsport.co.uk/hobbywing-ezrun-combo-max10-sct-3660sl-3200kv-brushless-motor/rc-car-products/420924

Edited by ph678
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6 hours ago, ph678 said:

Its the 3660  ezrun g2 3200kv hobbywing with 120a ezrun esc :) 

 

Not sure if your motor shaft is the same size as my GoolRC 3660, but when I first offered it up I too thought the shaft was too long - then realised I'd fitted the motor mount the wrong way around. 

Edited by t2boats
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Good morning everyone :) So the right front wheel seems to have a problem. For some reason it's always turned to right a little and not straight as it should be. I've centered the servo, adjusted the steering arms and adjusted the buttons of the controller but still nothing. I've even taken out the front CVDs, steering knuckle arms and the bearings to check if something's wry but nothing. Any ideas?

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1 hour ago, westerlycarrot9 said:

Good morning everyone :) So the right front wheel seems to have a problem. For some reason it's always turned to right a little and not straight as it should be. I've centered the servo, adjusted the steering arms and adjusted the buttons of the controller but still nothing. I've even taken out the front CVDs, steering knuckle arms and the bearings to check if something's wry but nothing. Any ideas?

 

Are you using the stock plastic hubs and knuckles? Could be wear n tear, or something split. Perhaps check where the suspension arm meets the front diff casing.. 

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1 hour ago, t2boats said:

 

Are you using the stock plastic hubs and knuckles? Could be wear n tear, or something split. Perhaps check where the suspension arm meets the front diff casing.. 

 I 2nd that or try adjust the steering arm in/out to true up the steering on the RHS wheel. Mine needs tweaking from standard as they where both slightly pointing outwards. 

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1 hour ago, t2boats said:

 

Are you using the stock plastic hubs and knuckles? Could be wear n tear, or something split. Perhaps check where the suspension arm meets the front diff casing.. 

Yes still using the stock plastic ones. I'll check it out then.

Edited by westerlycarrot9
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2 minutes ago, westerlycarrot9 said:

I've already tried adjusting the steering arm but i'll check it out again.

 Out can adjust each wheel individualy and you can do them together via the Stevo to Ackerman link arm also so just center up the servo on your radio and no matter where that puts the wheels then adjust everything straight with the steering arms 

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I've just got back from the beach bash & whilst I was there I noticed it was, frankly very poo at rock crawling, I quickly found out this was due to a lack of rear wheel drive.

 

rear wheel had stripped the hex!

 

changed wheel over, tighten with those silly stock nuts & washers & it lasted under a minute!

 

two hexs totally stripped & ruined. Not happy at all.

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Little update on the FTX Oulaw, More aluminium parts as ushual not a fan of the anodised blue finish so stripped it off, Also fitted some Pro-Line Hyrax 2.2 tyres on of FTX Outlaw 2.2 Aluminium bead lock wheels. 

 

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21032812_10212642621653018_6383515827284527980_n.jpg?oh=41038ae813c5b1ac8d97a13745610a54&oe=5A17B5E8

 

21078697_10212642621053003_4342620357392746326_n.jpg?oh=1039b157844a8fe977e0b20107c8278c&oe=5A21CC56

 

20994041_10212642620772996_8798901999325056505_n.jpg?oh=5bdd54885a7f77d55218177934a7b603&oe=5A1B2FFA

What's the process for removing the anodising dye ?

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