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FTX Outlaw Owners


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19 hours ago, Hegs44 said:

ADH66

Mate where did you get the grub screws from and/or what are the dimensions of the ones in the steel shaft ? Ive had the same, used loctite but they still loosen.

Thanks

 

 

A right PIA isn't it? I have the new metal drive shaft today and when I get home I'll measure the pesky blighters. I've also ordered 3 bags of the various grub screw sizes mentioned in the parts listing (amongst others) from Amazon. 

 

Last time the grub was still in the end of the shaft which went flying, but this time not and its in a field so gone forever. 

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Alright so one of the metal drive shaft grub screw in closeup. It's the one out of the inner section.

Technically, I'm hoping someone can wade in with the specifics.

But here's the actual item prior to being installed. 8b4d8b2a259b07447e151ca81e90a298.jpg4207119662a00b57acc0b0f9d79828d7.jpg

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Medium (blue) threadlock keeps them in place [emoji5] not lost one yet.
 
Also you could try some tape or heatshrink around the output cup;

Yeah was planning tape, wasn't sure if it would add too much weight or unbalance it and cause probs down the line.

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Just want to feel out some thoughts, ive got a goolrc 3660 3800kv (sensorless) in the outlaw at the moment and it gets warm on a 23 or 22 pinion that its got in at the moment and cogs plenty.

But ive just picked up a 540sized 17.5t sensored, would it be daft to try that in? I know it'll be lower rpm as most seem to be rated about 2100kv iirc, but then oem is only a 2950? But maybe enough torque to allow maybe a slight gear up (ignore the oem motor mounts as im still testing the metal multi mount i had made)

But it would be sensored so probably much smother drive.

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Best thing I ever did to my Outlaw is going to a sensored motor. Can now crawl dead slow and able to jump over something from a dead stop with no hesitation. I fitted an Aries 3200kv with a HW. Sensored a ESC.

 

Love the smoothness it now has.

 

          John

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I must say, its fun when its moving at the moment, and goes like a scolded cat when pressed, but its the getting moving that irks me and the slow speed control.

Are you running the 17 or 23 with that 3200kv, John?






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so I thought to myself that the set up I had in it needed a little refreshing. All id read is that the motor I was using wasn't meant for 4wd or larger 4wd monster trucks or such....

I had the max 10 combo 3652 3300kv. It never missed a beat and it ran flawlessly, never got too hot but me over thinking things ordered the max10 sct 120a with 4000kv 3660 motor!

all I can say is s**t this thing is uncontrollable even with the avc on! oh and that was with the 23 tooth pinion too! ive now ordered the 3200 3660 g2 motor now so am hoping that it will be more like what it was originally. point of the story........if it aint broke, don't fix it!!! now ive got to find a car tp put the combo in ive taken out!!! its just one thing after another :mf_laughbounce:

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So the previous post about Sensored motor setup got me thinking. I really like a good Crawl and my BL Outlaw is an absolute  animal as stock (which I like) But could anyone suggest a decent sensored se tup to give me the best of best of both worlds.

Waiting for your web links 

Regards

Megs

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Hi Heggs44,

I, like you love the BL Outlaw and its ability to take all the punishment you can give it,( Basher Certainly Give His Unlimited Punishment )  but also like you I really want it to be able to Crawl as well.

Thinking of buying another brushed version and converting it to make a Crawler, so I will be interested in what others on here suggest and if anyone actually have made or used one successfully?

Regards

John

 

 

 

 

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As mentioned in an earlier post I recently swapped the sensorless BL motor in my Oulaw for a decent sensored one.

 

I'm using an Aries 3200kv sensored motor with a Quicrun 10BL60 ESC.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/172030441704?var=470897428743

 

Tried a sensorless motor that ran OK but the sensored motor gives great low speed control. Makes it a pleasure to run as you can crawl slowly or jump up over something from a dead stop without the motor hesitating which often happens with sensorless. Feels like running a brushed motor at slow speed but proper brushless power when you need it. Of course if you're only interested in speed than sensorless is just fine.

 

            John

 

IMG_1205.jpg

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Many thanks John,

Do you run yours with diff lockers like lots rock crawlers?

 

I'm not sure how it will get on coping with the full speed brushless setup and with lockers?

Do I need a dedicated version ie :- Another Outlaw to convert ???

I have the brushless setup on mine at the moment which I love

.

Thanks John

 

 

 

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I would just go with anti wear grease in the rear as I'd want it to do more than crawl. You could get away with locking the rear though.

 

If you wanted it to be more of a dedicated crawler getting another one and licking both diffs would be a good idea. Although ground clearance isn't as good as a proper crawler though.  Have a look at the Outback if you wanted a proper crawler. 

 

        John

 

 

 

 

Edited by johninderby
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Hi All , I hope you all having fun with your Outlaws :) 

 

I just put a new brushless system in mine and I have 2 problems the thing is stupidly over powered and

does a backwards somersault on command which I guess I can sort out by setting the rates or expo

on my transmitter but the big problem is cogging, if you take off slowly its really bad, this is my first 

brushless system so was not expecting that and it sounds so wrong!

 

After doing some googling I understand why cogging happens on uncensored motors but I wonder if 

anyone has any hints on ways I can reduce it, I dont know if motor timing has an effect on cogging ? 

 

Pinion 17T

3S Lipo

Racestar 3650 4300kv

Hobbywing WP-SC8 120A 

 

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1 hour ago, hamradioguy said:

Hi All , I hope you all having fun with your Outlaws :) 

 

I just put a new brushless system in mine and I have 2 problems the thing is stupidly over powered and

does a backwards somersault on command which I guess I can sort out by setting the rates or expo

on my transmitter but the big problem is cogging, if you take off slowly its really bad, this is my first 

brushless system so was not expecting that and it sounds so wrong!

 

After doing some googling I understand why cogging happens on uncensored motors but I wonder if 

anyone has any hints on ways I can reduce it, I dont know if motor timing has an effect on cogging ? 

 

Pinion 17T

3S Lipo

Racestar 3650 4300kv

Hobbywing WP-SC8 120A 

 

 

That's some peak revs on 3S with large diameter Outlaw tyres and 4300kv, but then again it's 17t pinion.. good on ya!

 I've always found I can reduce cogging by lowering the punch level and/or timing, but then you have to compromise a bit of performance. 

 

Edit - meant to add, I haven't reduced the timing on my Outlaw... so it does cog a little on initial take off as can be seen in the videos, but I don't mind that.

Edited by t2boats
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Isn't a sensored set up the answer per John's previous posts and images? Defo considering that for my stock brushless. As a noob I'm unsure about the effects on the rest of the drive train etc but I'm picking up that brushed gives better low speed performance, brushless better high speed and sensored is combo.

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And yes, maybe mine will get a run out. The Bugsta wheels are a big improvement with high speed performance esp on tarmac and removing the spare help tame wheelies. It's far too heavy to be hanging off the back.

But it does act as good crash protection, so it goes on for tougher play. 71827bd0c2bceb2375062cdd2a773546.jpg034b2bef607853b6fb396d68b3dbf220.jpg

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Hi everyone,

Thanks for the advice.

 

Just ordered a Brushed Carnage and going to swap the motor and esc over with my Brushless Outlaw.

I will then look into locking the rear diff up and give it a go.

This is why I want it to crawl slower ???

Not finished yet

 

This also gives me a Brushless Carnage for all the mad stuff !!!

John

20170723_105315_resized.jpg

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