johninderby Posted June 29, 2017 Author Share Posted June 29, 2017 (edited) RC.....the great bank account emptier Alloy parts are fine but I like to leave some cheap plastic weak points so they break not the expensive alloy. Also plastic flexes which can also reduce the impact on the alloy bits. John. Edited June 29, 2017 by johninderby 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LittleRichard Posted June 29, 2017 Share Posted June 29, 2017 11 hours ago, ADH66 said: and that's my wheel dilemma sorted. I guess these are far less bouncy and understeer-then-roll-y? I'm really pleased with them, they're about the same diameter as standard but wider and obviously much smaller sidewall, which yes, induce a lot less bounce and reduces the tendency to roll but still has a pretty big turning circle even with the upgraded turnigy servo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ADH66 Posted June 30, 2017 Share Posted June 30, 2017 14 hours ago, LittleRichard said: I'm really pleased with them, they're about the same diameter as standard but wider and obviously much smaller sidewall, which yes, induce a lot less bounce and reduces the tendency to roll but still has a pretty big turning circle even with the upgraded turnigy servo. Sweet. And they do them in white. I've a set of stock wheels ordered in white, 2 have arrived so I may cancel the others and get these instead. These look like idea general use items, I'll save the balloons for slower rougher terrain. Nice one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Valyno Posted June 30, 2017 Share Posted June 30, 2017 (edited) (Remove duplicate) Edited June 30, 2017 by Valyno Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ADH66 Posted June 30, 2017 Share Posted June 30, 2017 Hmmm two questions : How do u get pinions off (grub screw removed BTW) without resorting to claw hammers. I've ordered the wrong pinion. So now I have the bigger 23t item x2. Will it still work? I see the motor mount can be rotated... Or best reorder the right one? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johninderby Posted June 30, 2017 Author Share Posted June 30, 2017 For the 23t pinion you need the 23t motor mount which can be had in cheap plastic or in alloy. Best thing to remove pinions is one of these. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Walkera-W010-Gear-Pinion-Puller-Remover-Tools-Set-For-RC-Motor-Pinion-Parts-WD-/201583038099?_trksid=p2385738.m2548.l4275 John 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StroudSmithy Posted July 3, 2017 Share Posted July 3, 2017 Whats the measurements or best replacement for the loccking wheel nuts on the Outlaw? I don't have any spares that may fit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bosco72 Posted July 4, 2017 Share Posted July 4, 2017 Traxxas wheel nuts are the ones I use Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
t2boats Posted July 4, 2017 Share Posted July 4, 2017 Think they're M4 aren't they...?! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johninderby Posted July 4, 2017 Author Share Posted July 4, 2017 Just measured and they are indeed M4 John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StroudSmithy Posted July 4, 2017 Share Posted July 4, 2017 Excellent, cheers lads Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hamradioguy Posted July 4, 2017 Share Posted July 4, 2017 I have not used my Outlaw for months so charged all the batteries up and tested it in my garden then the next day I switch the ESC (cheap 320a ebay one) on and it started smoking, so I have just got a hobbywing 1060 to put in it now. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hamradioguy Posted July 6, 2017 Share Posted July 6, 2017 I wish FTX made a small version of the Outlaw it would be perfect for my back garden. Does anyone know if the Brushless spur gear is any stronger than the brushed version ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johninderby Posted July 6, 2017 Author Share Posted July 6, 2017 (edited) The gears are the same. There's the Axial Yeti Jr but it's more than the brushed Outlaw although I got one from a mate for less. John Edited July 6, 2017 by johninderby 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason1145 Posted July 6, 2017 Share Posted July 6, 2017 On 17/06/2017 at 00:25, LittleRichard said: I too did this some time ago, figured it made sense. Also made a sort of front strut brace, rear brace and 2 wide arms to help stiffen up the chassis as I think all that flex was eventually transferring to the gearbox and not helping things there. Removed (by terrible landing) the rear wheel (along with most body panels) and added the bugsta wheels and it's now incredibly controllable in the air I want to see a video of it being controlled in the air, it might encourage me to take my Outlaw down the park with some golf jumps. Ive now got my 23t pinion and matching plastic 23t motor mount, also my steel drive shaft turned up... I feel a 3s lipo speed run coming on soon ( to beat my 44.9MPH run on the 17t pinion) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gaz! Posted July 6, 2017 Share Posted July 6, 2017 I guess I have to take my hat off to ftx, it's great more people are buying these and the little scalers. i don't see how anyone can argue that they are a half decent entry level trucks to toe dip into the world of crawling. not my cup of tea but great to see so many buying them 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LittleRichard Posted July 6, 2017 Share Posted July 6, 2017 Definitely a great entry point and exactly what I bought mine for! As mentioned way back, prior to this my last experience in the rc car world was the old Tamiya TL01 chassis, coming back about 15 years later and entering a world of brushless motors and lipo batteries, I virtually started afresh. No videos of it in the air though now I'm afraid as I've killed yet another combo in it and have just moved up to 1/8th Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hamradioguy Posted July 6, 2017 Share Posted July 6, 2017 (edited) I got my new 1060 esc in and spent ages tidying the wiring up so it looks nice in the car then took it outside for testing and it was great for 5 mins then it starts losing power like the battery is flat and i bring it in and the motor and esc are dead hot and one of them (not sure which) is smoking. I dont need speed and power I just need something reliable that's not going to get too hot and burn out. So the specs for the ESC state 3S Lipo or 9 NiMH; 540 or 550 Size Motor: ≥18T or RPM< 20000 @7.2V I am using the standard 550 15T motor on 3S but I was only bimbling about outside my house in the road so hardly drawing much power from the ESC i would think. What do you guys think is the standard motor too demanding for the 1060 ESC or is my motor faulty ? Or is it because I am using a 3S Lipo ? I would have thought the 1060 60A ESC was much better than the origonal 20A thing Outlaws come with https://hobbyking.com/en_us/hobbywing-quicrun-60a-2s-3s-waterproof-brushed-esc-for-1-10.html Edited July 6, 2017 by hamradioguy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johninderby Posted July 6, 2017 Author Share Posted July 6, 2017 The motor doesn't like 3s and will get too hot and will probably fail after a few hours use. Fitting a cooling fan will help though. Also 3s is a bit much for the 1060 with that motor. When the ESC gets too hot it will go into thermal shutdown and will reduce the power to protect itself. So it's go brushless or stick to 2s with the stock motor. There are other ESCs that will hold up for a while. On 3s. I used a cheap,Chinese one (13 quid) that lasted on 3s until the motor overheated. Wasn't the most efficient ESC and don't know how long it would last but it was a cheap way to get by temporarily. John 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hamradioguy Posted July 6, 2017 Share Posted July 6, 2017 (edited) Ok thanks John What is a good combo size to go for ? I don't want so much power that it starts stripping spur gears or drive shafts. Oh yeah and I have to run 3S so can't drop to 2S Edited July 6, 2017 by hamradioguy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bosco72 Posted July 6, 2017 Share Posted July 6, 2017 Anyone know if there's a stiffer rear swaybar Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
t2boats Posted July 6, 2017 Share Posted July 6, 2017 1 hour ago, hamradioguy said: Ok thanks John What is a good combo size to go for ? I don't want so much power that it starts stripping spur gears or drive shafts. Oh yeah and I have to run 3S so can't drop to 2S My stock brushed motor survived the 3S abuse using a different brushed esc, then changed to brushless which was my plan anyway with the car. Mine didn't go poof but who knows when it would have.. so best it was changed anyway. As far as combo's go I'm using: 3800kv 3660 motor on 3S lipo with a 120A esc on 23t pinion. I'm finding it a nice set up. No problems at all, doesn't become hot either. I bought a motor fan and haven't had the need to fit it yet. Installed my own home made rear anti role bar to help keep all 4wheels down and it works a treat - maximum traction now as apposed to having the front offside wheel lifting up waving as the car goes by like a trike. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bosco72 Posted July 7, 2017 Share Posted July 7, 2017 T2boats what did u make the sway bar out of u have pics and what u used Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
t2boats Posted July 7, 2017 Share Posted July 7, 2017 1 hour ago, bosco72 said: T2boats what did u make the sway bar out of u have pics and what u used I made a thread some time ago on the General Electrics bit, probably on page 2 by now.. on there is a description of what I did mate. It's very easy, 3.2mm stainless rod and I used two short servo arms which I bought from a Hobao Hyper 7 sway bar kit. Totally changed the Outlaw, I was getting a bit frustrated with its instability at high speeds. There's a few videos too of it YouTube! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hamradioguy Posted July 7, 2017 Share Posted July 7, 2017 (edited) Thanks very much t2boats, I cannot find a 3660 3800kv 120A combo (does 36 mean 36mm dia and 60mm is length ?) But this is for sale on here and I wondered if that would be suitable for the outlaw http://www.cmldistribution.co.uk/product/ET0425/etronix-photon-sc-2-1fw-system-w-3000kv-motor-80a-esc I really hate not knowing much about brushless stuff, but i am trying to learn Edited July 7, 2017 by hamradioguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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