t2boats Posted March 25, 2017 Share Posted March 25, 2017 I'm thinking mine might need the ali link arm supports too if the roll bar I'm fitting strips the threads or snaps it through stress.. will try it first using the stock plastic supports to see if the principle will work anyway, and if it does then if they break in future then there'll be a nice shiny ali pair fitted to the chassis. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bieomax Posted March 25, 2017 Share Posted March 25, 2017 Anyone else fitted the alloy rear arm supports? As i found mine needed a smaller screw set as the original in the plastic set up where to long i ended up just running a 1-2mm off them on the bench grinder, and lockited then in.Sent from my HTC One M8s using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noj Posted March 25, 2017 Share Posted March 25, 2017 On 24/03/2017 at 08:49, t2boats said: Enjoy the buggy, it's tremendous value, I think they're underpriced for what they are to be fair in comparison to other rc's available. A bargain buy I've followed this thread from the beginning and nothing you said there rings true. All owners have had to buy new combos, servos and a myriad of ally parts to dial out the basic flaws and weaknesses in the design, which i wouldn't consider make this rig a 'bargain' buy. I'd also say that the pricing point is correct for a weak stock rig, which this is, as per the norm with FTX. To me, this is another newbie rig, get into the hobby, realise how poor it is then buy something much better down the line. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bieomax Posted March 25, 2017 Share Posted March 25, 2017 For me if i was honest, i'd say dont bother with the brushed version, go straight to brushless. i should have just paid for the brushless as most if my problems stem from me messing about with fitting my own brushless system and my 3d printed motor mounts which caused my stripping of the spurs. Other that that ive not actually broken anything barring a few teeth off a diff as i didnt check the setup when i bought it. I've just wanted to add abit of bling really, and find it fun to drive. What would the alternatives be for £200?Sent from my HTC One M8s using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wolfe Posted March 25, 2017 Share Posted March 25, 2017 Personally I think it's a cracking truck. I've had a blast every time I've had it out. Bought the brushed version for £130. Quite happy with the pace so don't think getting the brushed version or spending £400 on a Axial yeti would've been a wise choice. Accidents happen. Things break, replace with the aluminium replacement parts. Jobs a good un. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bieomax Posted March 25, 2017 Share Posted March 25, 2017 Had a slight tweek of the hw sct pro 120a esc's timing&punch and i think its slightly reduced the cogging. Hoepfuly i can give it a quick run on the way home from work at temple newsam to check temps on/off road.Sent from my HTC One M8s using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigjimknickers Posted March 25, 2017 Share Posted March 25, 2017 4 hours ago, Noj said: I've followed this thread from the beginning and nothing you said there rings true. All owners have had to buy new combos, servos and a myriad of ally parts to dial out the basic flaws and weaknesses in the design, which i wouldn't consider make this rig a 'bargain' buy. I'd also say that the pricing point is correct for a weak stock rig, which this is, as per the norm with FTX. To me, this is another newbie rig, get into the hobby, realise how poor it is then buy something much better down the line. But, they all seem to be upgrading before failures? I mean how many problems have been reported of faulty esc/servos/motors? they all seem to be excitedly chucking bling at them (which is fair enough) without running them to the point of failure? I'm interested in getting one to bash (BL of course) til the point of failure, the other option I have is an Axial Yeti for £400! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ph678 Posted March 25, 2017 Share Posted March 25, 2017 Has anyone heard of the spyder? am I missing something......has this been out a while or is it new offerings from ftx? It looks pretty smart for a cheap crawler maybe just a maybe for now! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geehawk Posted March 25, 2017 Share Posted March 25, 2017 Not changed or upgraded mine at all and it's fine. ESC died but Modelsport replaced it. Other than that I've had no issues running on 2s, with more than it's fair share of run ins with the landscape. It strikes me that many people want to upgrade more for the sake of it than any real need (and I'm not saying there is anything wrong with that) and reading the Yeti threads it seems that me people upgrade all the same sort of things and are starting out with a car that costs more than twice as much. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Isle of Wight Basher Posted March 25, 2017 Share Posted March 25, 2017 6 hours ago, Noj said: I've followed this thread from the beginning and nothing you said there rings true. All owners have had to buy new combos, servos and a myriad of ally parts to dial out the basic flaws and weaknesses in the design, which i wouldn't consider make this rig a 'bargain' buy. I'd also say that the pricing point is correct for a weak stock rig, which this is, as per the norm with FTX. To me, this is another newbie rig, get into the hobby, realise how poor it is then buy something much better down the line. How wrong you are, the myriad of alloy upgrades are not needed. Any breakages of mine has been down to cartwheels that would have broken any open wheeled truck and all could have been fixed for little cost. I've had more fun with this car for much less expense than any other I've owned throughout my 35 years of being in the hobby. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bieomax Posted March 28, 2017 Share Posted March 28, 2017 Well ive gone and ordered some more bling [emoji37]Sent from my HTC One M8s using Tapatalk 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wolfe Posted March 28, 2017 Share Posted March 28, 2017 What does a heavier duty servo do? I'm currently running standard brushed. But looking at possibly getting a full brushless set up. Can you set the brushless motor to say 50% when the trigger is fully pulled? I ask because I let me boys have a go down the local park and I think a 40+ mph truck might (will be!) a bit too powerful for them to control. I've read that lipo's can be quite dangerous, how bad are they to keep an eye on in the real world? No doubt I'll have more questions if I decide to go brushless. Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sunny Posted March 28, 2017 Share Posted March 28, 2017 Heavier duty servo = more torque and or speed. As for turning the power down you would normally do that by setting the esc or also some transmitters can be used to set up less throttle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geeze Posted March 28, 2017 Share Posted March 28, 2017 On 25/03/2017 at 14:34, Bigjimknickers said: But, they all seem to be upgrading before failures? I mean how many problems have been reported of faulty esc/servos/motors? they all seem to be excitedly chucking bling at them (which is fair enough) without running them to the point of failure? I'm interested in getting one to bash (BL of course) til the point of failure, the other option I have is an Axial Yeti for £400! For the electrics on mine (which are now all gone), the servo was too weak to hold a line, the ESC was browning out under load and the motor burned out in a smokey smelly mess. So technically the motor was the only outright failure but the other two were bad enough that it was worth delving into the spares bin to swap them out. For the plastics, they've been pretty stout for me so far. The sway bar arms don't bite properly so the grub screw backs out, I've spotted a split on one of the battery box supports (also cross brace the frame which is still kinda wobbly) and I've seen enough folk break the chassis at the trailing arm mount to be half expecting that to pop sometime but it hasn't so far. I've had a Yeti and yes, it's a lot more solid (and scale looking). But the Outlaw drives a hell of a lot nicer imho and parts are cheap so I'm not phased. I've got no alloy bling on it yet and it's holding up surprisingly well. Fairly sure if I took it to the skate park, I'd break it in short order but hey, that's not what I bought it for 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wolfe Posted March 29, 2017 Share Posted March 29, 2017 Can anyone point me to a brushless motor set up? With everything I'd need to go brushless? Ecs (and tuning card) motor and a couple of batteries. Looked on eBay but the numbers on the motors and ecs seem to be a bit of a minefield for me at the moment. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StroudSmithy Posted March 29, 2017 Share Posted March 29, 2017 After careful consideration I've bought my first RC car and gone for the B/L Outlaw and I'm blown away by how much fun it is! I've taken it bashing on a few local playing fields which led me to going back to the model shop yesterday to get a second battery for longer runs. I've heard the Outlaw can take a 3s but to be honest I was happy with the speed from 2s so I purchased a 50c 4500mah to go with the battery that came with the car. The battery is 1cm too long for the battery tray but the Velcro straps hold it in place so that's fine. Now the new battery was spot on until I seemed to lose 75% of power. On further inspection I've lost the (sharply named) rear central CVD shaft rear central. I've found the spare part in plastic, is it likely that I can upgrade the part to a stronger material or is this something I just have to be careful with when using the new battery? (if so I'll order a few spare parts) 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johninderby Posted March 29, 2017 Author Share Posted March 29, 2017 (edited) Here you go. The description is a little misleading as it is for the complete driveshaft. https://www.modelsport.co.uk/0/rc-car-products/406604 John Edited March 29, 2017 by johninderby 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StroudSmithy Posted March 29, 2017 Share Posted March 29, 2017 Cheers fella, I'll get it ordered and back to bashing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Curby Posted March 30, 2017 Share Posted March 30, 2017 (edited) Hey up, Looks like I will be joining you guys in the FTX Outlaw club :-) Looked at pretty much everything within a budget of around £200.00 and couldnt find anything that compared to the FTX Outlaw BL version, spent slightly over the 200 quid mark and hit £300 lol with an extra charger purchase and another battery.... I have read all the threads regarding upgrading parts but the only one I am looking at doing to begin with is changing the shell somehow, no good having a bash with another 4 blue ones and the odd red ones...Any suggestions on what shells can fit these little beasts?? Here is mine, no differance from others but thought id share either way :-) Edited March 30, 2017 by Chris Curby 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post johninderby Posted March 30, 2017 Author Popular Post Share Posted March 30, 2017 You could just get a clear shell and paint it a differrent colour and add a few different bits. I like my blue one. John 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wolfe Posted March 31, 2017 Share Posted March 31, 2017 I like the look of the Helion rock racer grey. So once my red shell is smashed up I'll be getting a clear shell and painting it a similar shade. There's a nice yellow one kicking about on here somewhere aswell. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Curby Posted March 31, 2017 Share Posted March 31, 2017 That shell looks well good John! Nice job ?, well I took mine out for a quick spin last 2nd run from new and the plastic central cvd shaft has somehow twisted and snapped! I wasn't even putting the car under pressure so I can only assume I ran a bigger battery in it than I should of! need to get the steel version asap before the weekend or my plans are stuffed for this weekend! Dohhhh... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StroudSmithy Posted April 1, 2017 Share Posted April 1, 2017 Here you go. The description is a little misleading as it is for the complete driveshaft. https://www.modelsport.co.uk/0/rc-car-products/406604 JohnPart arrived yesterday and fitted today ready for bashing tomorrow. Chris, sounds like the same issue as me 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ph678 Posted April 2, 2017 Share Posted April 2, 2017 On 30/03/2017 at 14:13, Chris Curby said: Hey up, Looks like I will be joining you guys in the FTX Outlaw club :-) Looked at pretty much everything within a budget of around £200.00 and couldnt find anything that compared to the FTX Outlaw BL version, spent slightly over the 200 quid mark and hit £300 lol with an extra charger purchase and another battery.... I have read all the threads regarding upgrading parts but the only one I am looking at doing to begin with is changing the shell somehow, no good having a bash with another 4 blue ones and the odd red ones...Any suggestions on what shells can fit these little beasts?? Here is mine, no differance from others but thought id share either way :- Your gonna love it. Its the most fun rc ive had in years . Welcome along to the club buddy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ph678 Posted April 2, 2017 Share Posted April 2, 2017 On 30/03/2017 at 16:30, johninderby said: You could just get a clear shell and paint it a differrent colour and add a few different bits. I like my blue one. John that's a great colour. I was thinking of getting a clear shell and doing a nice metallic blue. Loving those wheels too. Where did you get them from? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.