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Help please, G320 only runs for 60 seconds bogs with throttle :( Any idea's tried everything I can think


lukeglazebrook

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Installed a G320 a couple of months ago tuned it to perfection and its been running great.  Recently I removed the tank to fix the clutch (could be coincidence?), ran it recently and it just conked out, it bogs and looses power after 30-60 seconds now.  It almost seems as though it starts playing up as soon as the engine warms up.  

Here is a video if it helps...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S9PwRzZ9fO4  

So far I have tried...

- checked the fuel lines for splits and kinks (cant see any)
- Replaced the cluck line fuel filter
- Checked the filter is clean and not over oiled
- replaced the diaphragm in the card (seemed to have an intermittent issue with the primer not filling)
- checked the bolts on the exhaust and coupler and the carb
- Cleaned out the carb with spray including the needles
- checked the spark seems good and tight along with not looking too shabby 

I'm now totally out of idea's ?  From the video can you tell if the bogging is fuel or air starvation?  I'm not too experienced with 2 stroke to be honest.

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LS = 1 & 3/8 plus or minus 1/4 turns

HS = 1 & 7/8 plus or minus 1/4 turns

Found these settings, try them they should be much closer..;)

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I've just recently had a similar issue with my 1107 carb, the same carb should be fitted to yours.

I did the bearing mod to mine and for some reason the bearing had shat it's self and caused a lot of play in the throttle shaft, it would start and idle fine but once warm in would run like crap bottom end and idle crap top end was fine or appeared to be fine.

This seems very similar to what mine was doing I replaced my 1107 with a 990 to get me out and all is good, I have not tried the 1107 yet I've replaced the bearing and made sure it's good to go IE no play in the shaft but not tested it yet because I also did the choke mod.

But once warm the prime bulb on tick over would empty, after 10 mins of cooling down I could pressurise the bulb and start the engine again so long has I did not let it idle it was OK.

Sent from the I6 via talktapa

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LS = 1 & 3/8 plus or minus 1/4 turns

HS = 1 & 7/8 plus or minus 1/4 turns

Found these settings, try them they should be much closer..;)

Gonna try these settings mark ,, this engine is a pig to start , think it's just me , got these setting off Ian at modeltech ,bearing in mind mine is the pro mx g320 , settings are both about the same when you +\- 1/4 turn , beginning to think I got a issue with kill switch

Base setting on the Pro-MX 320 & 340.

Running 25:1 oil ratio (4%)

L 1 & 1/2

H 1 & 3/4

They are shipped with the carb adjusted as above.

(The 320/340 evolution - case reed engines also have the same base needle settings (but the carb is metered differently))

Edited by carnageUK
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Gonna try these settings mark ,, this engine is a pig to start , think it's just me , got these setting off Ian at modeltech ,bearing in mind mine is the pro mx g320 , settings are both about the same when you +\- 1/4 turn , beginning to think I got a issue with kill switch

Base setting on the Pro-MX 320 & 340.

Running 25:1 oil ratio (4%)

L 1 & 1/2

H 1 & 3/4

They are shipped with the carb adjusted as above.

(The 320/340 evolution - case reed engines also have the same base needle settings (but the carb is metered differently))

She runs lol , much easier when the spark plug cap is on right ,,lol
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Haha Dave you numpty.lol

Yep numpty here mark , skinned all me knuckles nearly pulled shoulder out , stripped kill switch out , went to remove plug to check and seen it weren't on right , put it all back and fired up first time ,,
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