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mark35

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Everything posted by mark35

  1. mark35
    Take a look at Taylor rc, they have all the good stuff there but be prepared cus it ain't cheap 😁 TAYLOR RC - THE PREMIER 1/5 SCALE UPGRADE SHOP https://www.taylorrc.co.uk/
  2. mark35
    The battery gets plugged into the connector from the on/off switch which looks like you have plugged a servo into. You want the steering servo in No 1 in the receiver Throttle /brake servo in 2 Killswitch in 3 And the other end of the on/off switch in B🤘🏻
  3. mark35
    Hi bud try 1 1/4L 1 1/2 H They should get you close enough 👍🏻
  4. mark35
    The settings I give a factory settings there is no perfect settings I can give as there are so many variations but they won't be far from factory, to keep it running turn the idle screw in. It would also be a good idea for you to grab another spark plug as they can get fouled whilst running in👍🏻 Btw the plug is a Ngk CMR7H
  5. mark35
    Best setting will be close to L 1 1/4 H1 1/2 👍🏻
  6. mark35
    Sold... please close🤘🏻
  7. mark35
    Here for sale is a scott Finlay G340 promx with Alx 70mm clutch and 19T pinion , 1107 carb, outerwears on pull start and filter, also has the killer bee harness wired in but no bee included. This engine is a real powerhouse and os in full working order, the alx baja clutch system is new fitted but never ran and retail for €250 alone. Asking price is £350 plus postage or pick up is fine. Thanks...Mark
  8. mark35
    Search for "Zenoah plug cap" bud👍🏻
  9. mark35
    Wow.. That's not gonna be a cheap fix.. Lol Either signal loss or duff t/b servo is the likely cause, You should run a remote killswitch to prevent this from happening again
  10. mark35
    Could be heat transfer from duff clutch carrier bearings
  11. mark35
    Fail safes are crap, if you do what most people would recommend and set it to full brake and full turn then say you switch the tx off but forget to turn the rx off it will be bye bye servos and we all know they ain't cheap, as mentioned above get a killer bee or the more pocket friendly switchblade killswitch and forget about the failsafe imo👍🏻
  12. mark35
    You don't need it, it is for a different carb model. I'm pretty sure it is a seal for a drain off plug
  13. mark35
    If you block the carb opening and pull the engine over a few times that will choke an prime the engine
  14. mark35
    40ml oil to 1L of petrol=25:1 25ml oil to 1L of petrol=40:1 👍🏻
  15. mark35
    Just a new starter pawl should get you going, you could also file the flats on the flywheel too. Also that is a lightened flywheel you have there if you didn't already know 👍
  16. mark35
    Bashfest has been taken over so its slightly changed but its still on. http://www.bankholidaybashfest.com/
  17. mark35
    Have you tried a new spark plug? Also If it's getting fuel then it will definitely be flooded after trying to start it for half an hour.
  18. mark35
    Have you adjusted the servo endpoint?
  19. mark35
    Looks good mate apart from the mangled bzm pipe ??
  20. mark35
    You could try wrapping your header with PTFE tape, I run a few of my pipes like that with no issues
  21. mark35
    My mates rig had I problem That sounds like the one you have, his turned out to be the clutch mount, it was worn and spinning on the crank, this problem would also happen if the mount bolt was loose. Give that a try if you have not sorted it yet?
  22. mark35
    Fuel flows in the bottom and out the top of the carb so if you look in the fuel tank the line with the filter on should go to the nipple at the base of the carb, hope that helps?
  23. mark35
    Very nice mate, lovely looking engine that ? I hope you have beefed your drive train up cus your gonna need it..Lol and you will need brp wheels
  24. mark35
    Hi bud, One of these are better than a piston stop as long as you have a stock clutch and an engine 30.5cc or under. https://www.rcmodelz.co.uk/rcm-easy-clutch-stopper-tool.html
  25. mark35
    I can see your post Paul..lol
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