Hyper-d Posted February 15, 2016 Share Posted February 15, 2016 Yes have the glass plate and have it all up to temp before levelling. I've been using squares. 5 lines thick, as big as the bed , with smaller squares leading to a 30x30 square in the middle.... Which never prints as the beds so close at that point that the extruder clicks and nothing can get out the nozzle lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hyper-d Posted February 15, 2016 Share Posted February 15, 2016 Thinking of buying this http://www.ebay.co.uk/ulk/itm/201166286056 purely for the ally plate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vr5fx Posted February 16, 2016 Share Posted February 16, 2016 On 15/02/2016 at 3:01 PM, Hyper-d said: Thinking of buying this http://www.ebay.co.uk/ulk/itm/201166286056 purely for the ally plate Link doesn't work. Turn the glass upside down, if it still does it the same, it's not the bed. After it struggling with the first layer(s), does it eventually print? A raft would be a temporary solution. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hyper-d Posted February 17, 2016 Share Posted February 17, 2016 Flipped the bed and the glass still too high in the middle As I said anything bigger than a cube warps.... And that's with a brim lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tamiyacowboy Posted February 17, 2016 Share Posted February 17, 2016 Brim is a very fine sheet like layer thats squished down onto the surface, then object is printed onto this. raft is a different kettle of fish, its a zigzag lined weave in two layers. its used to hold obejcts down with minimal space usuage. ( brims take more space than rafts and brims also hold more heat) the weave layer on a fraft also helps cooling and warping. heres a trick for leveling problems. first of start the printer and heat that bed upto around 80-90 c we want that bed at working temp while we do this, hit bed leveling and let it seek the first spot, the nozzle will drop down and your told to check the high. stop right here and now cancel the print level. leave the nozzle where it is DO NOT move it up or down and DO not sent it back to home. so now we have the nozzle at the best hight were gonna use the jog function to move the nozzle around the table, look for the four screw heads that are holding the alloy plate down (four point adjustemt) jog the nozzle so its close to these screw heads BUT NOT OVER THEM !!!! . at each screw head position check nozzle hight and adjust that side so your nozzles snugg and the paper-feeler gauge just slides under ............ ok so we done that ? if the answer is yes thats great. Now i want you to use the jog function still and put the nozzle roughly middle of the table, have a check with paper or feeler gauge you should notice the center is a lot more closer than using the bed level code, very very lightly tweek each screw adjuster so the paper-feeler just about slides under, and LEAVE PAPER UNDER NOZZLE........ Now without moving the nozzle or the paper send the print head to home, the bed hight will stay the same and the nozzle will hone into its park position notice it drags the paper with it ( the paper is there to help protect the nozzle if it gets a tad to close.) leaving the bed heating on, load up a very small print job or load up a brim only print, and start the machine to print. bed will drop or the nozzle will raise and do its thang. you should find a much more finer tollerance doing a bed level this way, yes it takes longer but its more refined . Hints, always run bed heat up and run your leveling when bed is still heated do not let it cool down . when the bed cools the alloy shrinks back and the leveling for that session is undone. metal expands and contracts under heating so you want it to expand enough thats why we pre heat first and keep the bed on pre heat when leveling. alloy plates are NOT FLAT, they are a plate thats been cut from a big sheet. the only way to get a true flat plate is milling it from a solid block of alloy and thats a huge cost but it gives you the most level upper surface one could get ie a milled plate. whats happening is this, the plate is held down by those three or four mounting points but there is NO screw holding the center of the plate down as it heats up the center raises up and warps a tad ( its something that just happens and i had huge problems with myself as with having plastic bed arms to the warp was over exssesive ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ashleysmith Posted February 18, 2016 Share Posted February 18, 2016 The build begins, it's going to be big! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vr5fx Posted February 19, 2016 Share Posted February 19, 2016 I wanted to print something today, but my print bed is too small. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ashleysmith Posted February 19, 2016 Share Posted February 19, 2016 On 17 February 2016 at 11:52 AM, Tamiyacowboy said: Brim is a very fine sheet like layer thats squished down onto the surface, then object is printed onto this. raft is a different kettle of fish, its a zigzag lined weave in two layers. its used to hold obejcts down with minimal space usuage. ( brims take more space than rafts and brims also hold more heat) the weave layer on a fraft also helps cooling and warping. heres a trick for leveling problems. first of start the printer and heat that bed upto around 80-90 c we want that bed at working temp while we do this, hit bed leveling and let it seek the first spot, the nozzle will drop down and your told to check the high. stop right here and now cancel the print level. leave the nozzle where it is DO NOT move it up or down and DO not sent it back to home. so now we have the nozzle at the best hight were gonna use the jog function to move the nozzle around the table, look for the four screw heads that are holding the alloy plate down (four point adjustemt) jog the nozzle so its close to these screw heads BUT NOT OVER THEM !!!! . at each screw head position check nozzle hight and adjust that side so your nozzles snugg and the paper-feeler gauge just slides under ............ ok so we done that ? if the answer is yes thats great. Now i want you to use the jog function still and put the nozzle roughly middle of the table, have a check with paper or feeler gauge you should notice the center is a lot more closer than using the bed level code, very very lightly tweek each screw adjuster so the paper-feeler just about slides under, and LEAVE PAPER UNDER NOZZLE........ Now without moving the nozzle or the paper send the print head to home, the bed hight will stay the same and the nozzle will hone into its park position notice it drags the paper with it ( the paper is there to help protect the nozzle if it gets a tad to close.) leaving the bed heating on, load up a very small print job or load up a brim only print, and start the machine to print. bed will drop or the nozzle will raise and do its thang. you should find a much more finer tollerance doing a bed level this way, yes it takes longer but its more refined . Hints, always run bed heat up and run your leveling when bed is still heated do not let it cool down . when the bed cools the alloy shrinks back and the leveling for that session is undone. metal expands and contracts under heating so you want it to expand enough thats why we pre heat first and keep the bed on pre heat when leveling. alloy plates are NOT FLAT, they are a plate thats been cut from a big sheet. the only way to get a true flat plate is milling it from a solid block of alloy and thats a huge cost but it gives you the most level upper surface one could get ie a milled plate. whats happening is this, the plate is held down by those three or four mounting points but there is NO screw holding the center of the plate down as it heats up the center raises up and warps a tad ( its something that just happens and i had huge problems with myself as with having plastic bed arms to the warp was over exssesive ) Even a cnc'd plate will bow under the same temps but not as much as an alloy sheet metal plate (the surface stresses are removed by the milling operation) you can spot weld a bolt to the centre of the plate to support the plate that way also. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ashleysmith Posted February 19, 2016 Share Posted February 19, 2016 4 hours ago, Vr5fx said: I wanted to print something today, but my print bed is too small. Whats your bed size? Could you scale the model down? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vr5fx Posted February 19, 2016 Share Posted February 19, 2016 On 17/02/2016 at 11:05 AM, Hyper-d said: Flipped the bed and the glass still too high in the middle As I said anything bigger than a cube warps.... And that's with a brim lol The bed will, or should always warp the same way. Are you sure there isn't play in any of the axis? 5 minutes ago, ashleysmith said: Whats your bed size? Could you scale the model down? Nah, it's for a multirotor frame, need a 250 bed size. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ashleysmith Posted February 19, 2016 Share Posted February 19, 2016 2 minutes ago, Vr5fx said: The bed will, or should always warp the same way. Are you sure there isn't play in any of the axis? Nah, it's for a multirotor frame, need a 250 bed size. Mad soon as my printer is unissued I can have a bed size up to 300x400mm to bad that I need to print parts to build the printer.... Oh the irony Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hyper-d Posted February 19, 2016 Share Posted February 19, 2016 I've had plenty of tinker time on it over the last few days and managed to print my first biggish item(5th scale beadlock) in abs with no warping i still have a little extruder clicking in places but far better than what it was . had an incident where I left it unattended, wing nuts vibrated loose, as the print warped it catched the hot end...... Came back to the glass on the floor and a ball of abs on the bed lol needless to say I have since thread locked the wing nuts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tamiyacowboy Posted February 19, 2016 Share Posted February 19, 2016 Depending on printers you can upgrade to a larger bed, you just use a larger sheet of glass and hogtie the mounting lol. my old printer was 225x150x145 but i could fit a 300x250 bed plate. in the software you can define the bed size yourself using custom settings ( dont ask me how as i never really played about with that stuff at the time as the printer ripped itself apart lol) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post mayzie12 Posted March 1, 2016 Popular Post Share Posted March 1, 2016 Well i haven't posted in here for a bit. Been doing tonnes of stuff, been though 3 rolls of filament total. Ordered 4 spools from colorfabb. Sticking with them as its pretty strong strong stuff and prints really well. Also haven't had another dodgy roll even though that was replaced. Done a quick time-lapse of some stuff i was printing for a project at uni, also some pics of things I've printed from a model petrol pump for a company to a lipo tray for one of my cars. Petrol Pump Lipo Tray Model of a 400a MGM i was using to mock up in a car. Also i will be printing a body shell for my 2s speed car. The body has been modeled in solidworks and Ive done pretty extensive CFD on it too, getting the drag down to around 14N at 60m/s and only 5N of lift! In total it will be 91 hours of printing, but each part is around 15-20 Finally the time-lapse i done 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baorevo Posted March 25, 2016 Share Posted March 25, 2016 (edited) Hey !!! been a long time since the thread has budged !! wheres every1 at ? just got a new printer i wanted a delta for a long time so when i saw the kossel mini at the right price i had to get one Edited March 25, 2016 by baorevo 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
banners Posted March 25, 2016 Share Posted March 25, 2016 Hey !!! been a long time since the thread has budged !! wheres every1 at ? just got a new printer i wanted a delta for a long time so when i saw the kossel mini at the right price i had to get one Go big or go home!! I'm in the process of gathering all the bits for a 1m tall kossel with a duet powered board. I'm hoping for around a 500mm build height - I probably should have just done this in the first place but never mind Have half of it and other half in the post still. How's it printing Baorevo? They have a serious cool factor built in. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baorevo Posted March 25, 2016 Share Posted March 25, 2016 Go big or go home!! I'm in the process of gathering all the bits for a 1m tall kossel with a duet powered board. I'm hoping for around a 500mm build height - I probably should have just done this in the first place but never mind Have half of it and other half in the post still. How's it printing Baorevo? They have a serious cool factor built in. wow thats gonne be a heck of a delta !!!! i only get 300mm hight (only ) 500 is huge . Prints great and its a trip just watching it lol , i wanted one for a while now (had to sell a drone to finance it but i still have a few left hehe) 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex97 Posted March 26, 2016 Share Posted March 26, 2016 (edited) Would someone be able to print me a small part? Its a small mount thats 17x11mm http://i1320.photobucket.com/albums/u535/112297/Capture_zpsouqd0dns.png[/IMG] Forum is still playing up with pictures Its just gonna be used to hold hold a 5mm led on to the back of my car. I've saved it as an STL file, I can email it to maybe or upload it to here. Thanks alex Edited March 26, 2016 by alex97 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ashleysmith Posted March 28, 2016 Share Posted March 28, 2016 I'm still in the process of building mine... Last few parts from China will be here in the next week... Then the build can continue/finish build height - around 450mm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vr5fx Posted April 9, 2016 Share Posted April 9, 2016 On 24/03/2016 at 13:00, baorevo said: Hey !!! been a long time since the thread has budged !! wheres every1 at ? just got a new printer i wanted a delta for a long time so when i saw the kossel mini at the right price i had to get one !!!!!!!! I've been looking at delta printers lately! Any good points, or bad on that one? Details! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HellaFlush Posted April 13, 2016 Share Posted April 13, 2016 Hello, Would anyone be willing to help me with some small pieces? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vr5fx Posted April 14, 2016 Share Posted April 14, 2016 On 13/04/2016 at 18:49, HellaFlush said: Hello, Would anyone be willing to help me with some small pieces? Thanks Details bud. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ashleysmith Posted April 28, 2016 Share Posted April 28, 2016 Managed to make a little progress on mine... 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ashleysmith Posted May 8, 2016 Share Posted May 8, 2016 Long shot, anyone have a couple of spare stepper motors? Nema17 1.68/1.7a? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hyper-d Posted May 15, 2016 Share Posted May 15, 2016 (edited) 20 beadlocks = 160 hours print time think I have a bust bed bearing too as its leaving black residue on the rod Edited May 15, 2016 by Hyper-d Forgot pic 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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