Vr5fx

Yup, still interested. Sent you a message.

Is this still for sale? Interested. Could you pop your name on a piece of paper next to the item for sale and post a pic for us please. I'll take it once photo is up.

Ooo, my bad, I misread above, sorry. If it's finishing off 0.04v short, thats alright. I have 2 identical chargers, and one of them likes to do this, finishes off slightly short of 4.20

If it isn't the timer limit, it's the capacity limit. Stock is set to 5,000mAh if I'm looking at the right manual, needs changing up to a higher limit

Is there a time cutout on the charger? could be hitting the limit on a 10,000mAh pack.

Changed the motor and ESC, got a max 6 and a 4292 can in it. Motor and ESC much cooler, batteries arn't getting hot either. Thing flies on 6s. However now the gearbox is cooking, temp gun showed it as 100c. Being plastic that won't last long. Wheels aren't balanced well, it wobbles like jelly on WOT, so would be nice to find some others that are a similar size, but belted?

4 on the front end, which go through the front kick up and bolts the front end on, and there are the 2 on the wider part, this goes through the chassis. IRC chassis have these holes pre drilled. but for a standard chassis you have to drill these out yourself and put a nut on the inside.

Front impact, like hitting something or even something simple like taking a tumble. The back end is so heavy that the front turns into a crumple zone. You can bend the stock parts by hand, so it's bound to happen.

Should be completely flat. I'll let you know either way regarding the bits. 😁

Never had an issue with IRC gear. I've got a Y plate, skid plate and chassis on Ebay at the moment, current guy has 1 more day to pay up, if he doesn't pay you get first refusal. The push-pull set up is all a bit meh. It's great while it works, but such a faff to get it "right", broke mine plenty of times. Part metal setup, with a plastic horn is the way to go I think. Leave the servo horn as a weak point so it breaks before anything else.

Never had that issue either. Unless the front end is bent? If the upper plate has a bend, that might affect the seating position for the pins. Have some pictures of the front end, where you are having issues?

Did the pinion and spur on the MT1 (over tightened the slipper🥲) MT2 went home working, although definitely wants some tweaking, gets a horrible speed wobble, and the motor gets pretty hot, it's not meant for speed laps, but I won't accept no for an answer. So might look at a different motor in the future.

Bought myself the MT2 Taking it out for the first time today with the MT1 😁 Fingers crossed it doesn't break.

This is now being split and put on the 'Bay

I ran the Hyper SS motor mount in my all my STs, just had to shim one end of the diff by about 1mm, to stop the diff from binding. Had enough swing to put a 1717 in and gear it to the moon.

Bump. £500

Seen a lot of Arrma, but not used any. Still got my Hyper MT, so was maybe thinking getting a Hyper 7 or ST to go with it. If you were thinking of trading, hit me up via PM, and we can see if there is a possibility.

Massive Baja job lot. For the sake of the post we are going for spare and repairs. I've not used any of it in around 3 years, so chances of not mentioning some details are pretty high. 😬 It's been living in my loft since. Reason for sale.... I fell out of love with the RC scene after I moved house, I want to get back into it but with electric. The Baja (shorty) Mostly KM, converted to a shorty with a cut down rollcage to fit. It's been abused, tumbled, jumped ragged, slapped about, used in full contact sports, so probably in dire need of some TLC. It runs, tested on 3 year old 2 stroke. Zenoah 29cc ESP ported head. The bore has slight pitting, it was like this when I bought it. Okay compression. Not sure if the killswitch is dead, had to disconnect it to start it up. Throttle servo mounts on one side are broken, so will need a new servo or case. Will need a new front wheel. TR Y plate, and IRC kick plate. The roller As seen. Chassis has seen better days. has a small crack in it on the front kick and is slightly buckled. IRC kick plate and Y plate. All spares/parts Wheels and tyres Beadlocks and wheels might not be much good, been jammed with wood screws. All the tyres look good. 2 engines. Zenoah 29cc, and I think a KM 29cc, both engines ran last time they were used. The Zenoah was spot on last used approx 4 years ago. 3 carbs. 2 x 1107 1 x knock off Shock parts Right hand side pile are all bent. The rest is all as seen. No TX/RX I hope these pics work..... SPLIT ON EBAY

PM Sent

Pretty sure I have one in the loft that doesn't work, I've not seen it for 2 years. I think the switch broke on the transmitter. Not sure how much of it works, cause I'm sure I tried to mod it and didn't get anywhere. I'll go up later and get back to you.

I had one a few years ago, as a light scudder, it's fine. But I found bashing it any more than lightly ended up breaking it. Mostly broke the cage, arms and the centre shafts, but I jumped mine a hella lot. The Hyper Cage buggy, is the same as the Hyper SS buggy, apart from the cage. If he wants a solid basher, stay away from the Cage... This is of course, my opinion. 😉

Hey bud. Where the rollcage holds the fuel tank, wrap electrical tape around it, a few layers should do. It helps hold the tank in place so there isn't any wiggle while you are scudding, it helps keep the tank up and away from the exhaust. I think what you are looking for is exhaust tape. This stuff. To apply new tape, you'll need to clean the bottom of the tank with rubbing alcohol and a rag , otherwise it won't stay stuck for long Also might be worth looking at Exhaust wrap. This can be nasty stuff as the fibers can get everywhere. Wear gloves, soak it in water (water stops the fibers floating) and wrap it tightly around the first part of the exhaust that is directly under the tank. To fasten I used wire. If you use this, just make sure that any cableties or wire snags are on the underside of the exhuast. There is also a fella on one of the facebook groups that fabricates ally fuel tanks, really expensive, but won't melt.

Honestly, there isn't a right answer. Buy which you prefer, but you'll need to buy some extras to get the most out the model you choose. Buy decent 2 stroke oil too, not the cheap stuff. Chassis brace (as above, we've all ruined a chassis) front Y plate (pairs with above for added strength) Killswitch. This is the most important... Never run your models without one.

If it was just sitting on the table not connected to anything, why did he need 2 hands to pick it up? That was connected to something. Can see that he's picked it up by a cable, so either it's not a phantom battery either, or it was connected to something. Either way, this video is bull... It's only there to scare people. I've yanked a battery out of a model and launched it out the window faster than he picked that up.

So the transmitter has an inbuilt failsafe.... This only protects you under certain conditions. If the transmitter gets turned off, or if the batteries in it die, the inbuilt failsafe kicks in. which is set manually, so it could apply the brakes. However, if we look at the model. If the throttle servo breaks while at wide open throttle (WOT) the transmitters failsafe wont work, as the servo won't budge. Same applies to if the battery disconnects, or the throttle linkage jams open, this is called a runaway. If you are going full throttle, and the battery disconnects, the model will keep it's last known input, which is full throttle. A killswitch will stop the model under all conditions. What ever happens, either the killswitch, or the user can kill the engine safely and quickly to limit any problems. They can be a pain to setup, but they can prevent damage to the model, or worse, injury to a person. I reckon the trnamitter is okay, I'd put money on the receiver or battery in the model.