Alex97 Posted January 14, 2016 Share Posted January 14, 2016 30 minutes ago, mayzie12 said: sized In terms of accuracy, i generally have the width/length/height of a 20mm cube within 0.05mm of the nominal size. Holes are a bit more varied. For a m3 machine screw, i would use a 3.2mm hole as a clearance hole. PLA threads dead easily so its not the end of the world if its slightly under sized What printer are you using? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mayzie12 Posted January 14, 2016 Share Posted January 14, 2016 1 minute ago, alex97 said: What printer are you using? The copy of a i3 from ali express. It wasnt without its difficulties in gettings it going, missing parts and bent rods, none of which i was able to get money back for or replacements but it does work ok now. I would recommend the printer, just from a different source Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
banners Posted January 14, 2016 Share Posted January 14, 2016 The AliExpress machine seller, Hesine, can be a little hit and miss and support isn't great - but - I don't think you could buy the parts for the money they charge. Not 100% but you do save some cash if it works in your favour. As for the UK ebay listings, it's less risk as you should be covered with a UK warranty but go back a few pages to see how how hard the seller of TamiyaCowboys' printer wriggled to avoid giving him his money back - oddly with Amazon involved :/ Toss a coin. Best of 3? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex97 Posted January 14, 2016 Share Posted January 14, 2016 I'm hoping with eBay I'm a little bit more protected. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hyper-d Posted January 15, 2016 Share Posted January 15, 2016 So I've had a go with some esun abs but can't print any thing because it won't stick to the bed. current settings are 240 Extruder but can't get my bed to go above 80. I read earlier in the thread that the solution for this is to replace the bed wires, should 10 gauge wire do the job? Also using glass bed and glue stick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vr5fx Posted January 15, 2016 Share Posted January 15, 2016 Dude, don't change the wires, it doesn't work. Looks up abs slurry. Pure acetone and some chopped up abs, mix it together to a thick goo and apply to the glass like the glue using a brush or spread it using a flat edge (Stanley blade ect) this let's the printed abs stick. Though I've not had amazing results with my abs, I think because it is cheap. Sent from my D6503 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hyper-d Posted January 15, 2016 Share Posted January 15, 2016 Oh ok, one less job I have to do tonight lol. I'll try to get hold of some acetone tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heavyleftthumb Posted January 17, 2016 Share Posted January 17, 2016 On 13/01/2016 at 9:47 PM, alex97 said: I'm thinking about getting a 3d printer for a little bit of fun as I enjoy using auto cad and I'd like to make some of my designs come to life! I'm not looking to spend loads as it won't get used that much so no more than £300 but less would be better, if I'm gonna get utter rubbish for that then please say. A good size build area would also be nice so that I'm not limited to making smaller things. Something simple to operate would also be a plus as well. I'm a total noob to all this 3d printing stuff (as you can most likely tell). i was exactly the same until i dived right in. there is a learning curve but with a little help and some practice. it will be up and running. I still have lots to learn to i am having fun printing all things i can find haha On 14/01/2016 at 6:30 AM, banners said: ebay has a number of Prusa i3's in the UK for ~ £160. They look as good as any other i3 for the money and have a plywood frame which may be better than the acrylic frame. If you're confident enough to build a RC kit these shouldn't throw up any problems. i bought one of these and was the OMNI prusa i3 version. was 169 shipped. they did mark the invoice down to $50 so i got stung for £16 from DHL. but i unboxed and probably 5-6 hours it was built and printing test prints. the longest time is getting things calibrated and tweeked. On 14/01/2016 at 6:50 AM, alex97 said: Is this the one your talking about? http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=221985481951&alt=web mine was a very similar machine but mine was shipped from HK Right an update of my own haha. all built all running. test print works a few things printed from the web and its chugging along. so glad i got all the tools and thing stockpile whilst waiting to receive the machine. Still got a few bugs to iron out main issue being the x axis belt tensioner being quite fragile , think i broke two whilst building, hoping to get some pats cut from alloy or maybe there is some other option, hopefully. SO far made some scaler waffle boards. a jerry can. a scx bumper. a recaro seat. and a grill take some print time though, i cant stop watching it print so hypnotic 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baorevo Posted January 17, 2016 Share Posted January 17, 2016 Longest print so far !!! over 25hrs for 4 bits , 50cm high 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tamiyacowboy Posted January 17, 2016 Share Posted January 17, 2016 On 1/14/2016 at 6:10 PM, alex97 said: Thanks for the replys, I think that I'd start with PLA as the first few prints won't be great. What sort of surface area in mm³ do you get per 1kg? So is the i3 gonna be my best bet? What's the accuracy for dimensions like on the i3? Alex 330-380 meters in length for a 1kg roll of filament ( thats 1kg of product and does not include spool weight) i3 - makerbot - flashforge all good machines. accuracy is 0.01mm to within and closer. sub mill scale 100 microns. How does it all work, well when we extrude the molten plastic from the nozzle the plastic forms a O shape , this is usually .4mm in size as its the size of your nozzle. lets say we lay down a layer and tell the printer to make it 100 microns thick aka 0.01mm the nozzle is lowered down via the motors and plastic is extruded. Now remember that O shape the plastic comes out the nozzle as, well if we push that nozzle close to a surface the plastic is push outwards it forms a (=======) like shape. closer the nozzle to surface the wider the circle is deformed and the thiner the profile. now there is a max and minimum point. MINIMUM POINT = the max resolution your printer is able to print at, RESOLUTION = LAYER THICKNESS. thinner a layer the more resolution, thicker the layer the less resolution so out 1mm high layer can be formed from 10 layers at 0.01mm or two and a bit if we print at 0.4 layer hight, but its not as simple as it sounds all this is governed by the stepper motors (the micro stepping side) the gearing and the pully systems. Max point is your Nozzle size, most of the printers are sold with a .4mm nozzle, so your very BEST low resolution will be around 0.37mm ( ie your thickest layer possible is 0.37mm) to be well within boundrys i would put my print layer max at 0.32mm , and my minimum layer hight would be 0.01mm Printing at this hight would take you years and years. the ideal range for printing is between 0.32 and 0.01mm ( so very best quility 0.05mm and for speed but still good resolution quality between 0.27mm and 0.10mm). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex97 Posted January 17, 2016 Share Posted January 17, 2016 Just having a look at things to came and i saw this... http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1193309 Could be a bit of fun, a racing class where everyone made their own cars could be fun. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ashleysmith Posted January 20, 2016 Share Posted January 20, 2016 ** huge favour required** can an anyone help? Basically I'm slowly giving up on my Perspex framed printer and hoping to build something better than this kit build (stronger frame, more accurate and able to print bigger parts). but I need a few parts printed (well a lot of parts (see link) would anyone be 1) willing and 2) able to print me the parts required (I will obviously pay the cost of filament) http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:500041 i believe I need 1 of every part listed in the link (as quantities required are within the STL file) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vr5fx Posted January 29, 2016 Share Posted January 29, 2016 (edited) After having lots of headaches, baorevo helped me out with printing some adapters for the bushings. Thanks bud! With the printer up and running again, which is going really well I printed off the Darth Vader and Storm Trooper. [Clicky to enlarge] I'm not sure if a few layers are out, but some later prints will show any issues. Edited January 29, 2016 by Vr5fx 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baorevo Posted January 29, 2016 Share Posted January 29, 2016 They look pretty clean !! i had a few layer issues on those stl's myself .................. Must be a lot quieter now i bet lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vr5fx Posted January 29, 2016 Share Posted January 29, 2016 9 minutes ago, baorevo said: They look pretty clean !! i had a few layer issues on those stl's myself .................. Must be a lot quieter now i bet lol. Much quieter, was like shaking a tin of screws before, now it's just motor noise. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heavyleftthumb Posted February 6, 2016 Share Posted February 6, 2016 i have got to say im loving this printing lark. its been flat out printing stuff. 500 metres of filament later haha 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baorevo Posted February 9, 2016 Share Posted February 9, 2016 latest print is the MINI NUKE from Fallout 4 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tamiyacowboy Posted February 9, 2016 Share Posted February 9, 2016 4 hours ago, baorevo said: latest print is the MINI NUKE from Fallout 4 if you made the top half in white it would make an awesome table lamp. you could print of a black fallout 4 logo and stick a couple on each side 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tamiyacowboy Posted February 11, 2016 Share Posted February 11, 2016 On 9/2/2016 at 9:30 PM, Tamiyacowboy said: if you made the top half in white it would make an awesome table lamp. you could print of a black fallout 4 logo and stick a couple on each side Super geek mode , so guys, if you print out the bomb and make the middle section around 4 inches higher , take a Micro atx motherboard, a nano pcie express gfx card, a micro 450w psu add a wifi card and a small 250gb SSD and a low profile heatsink cooler. you want 2x 50-60mm cpu fans and some hardcore cable management. what do you get ? A fallout Mini Nuke PC build !!!!! part 1 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jTmxuadwucc part 2 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_geKxP5C29I Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vr5fx Posted February 11, 2016 Share Posted February 11, 2016 On 09/02/2016 at 5:13 PM, baorevo said: latest print is the MINI NUKE from Fallout 4 Much better paint job that what I did on mine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baorevo Posted February 11, 2016 Share Posted February 11, 2016 1 hour ago, Vr5fx said: Much better paint job that what I did on mine. Its not paint its the pla colours Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tamiyacowboy Posted February 12, 2016 Share Posted February 12, 2016 (edited) For the green guys go with military Olive green drab sunset yellow with a very tiny drop o black to tone it down on the nuke logo and postbox red for the top dome. use a gray filler primer n around 20 mins sanding out the groves then the primer give it three fine coat , then the main green go with 4 coats medium heavy on the laying down, use a finger nail to make dinks n divots and finish with a satin-matt clearcoat for that 50's retro look stylin Edited February 12, 2016 by Tamiyacowboy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vr5fx Posted February 12, 2016 Share Posted February 12, 2016 22 hours ago, baorevo said: Its not paint its the pla colours .......Why do you do this to me!? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hyper-d Posted February 15, 2016 Share Posted February 15, 2016 Well after several hours off attempted bed levelling I've come to the conclusion that my bed is warped lol. If I level the corners the middle is too close and if I level the middle the corners are too far. Would explain a lot really as I've had nothing but warping problems on any thing bigger than a 20mm cube. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mayzie12 Posted February 15, 2016 Share Posted February 15, 2016 3 minutes ago, Hyper-d said: Well after several hours off attempted bed levelling I've come to the conclusion that my bed is warped lol. If I level the corners the middle is too close and if I level the middle the corners are too far. Would explain a lot really as I've had nothing but warping problems on any thing bigger than a 20mm cube. Mines is a bit like that even with a bit of glass, which im assuming you have on top of your Aluminium bed? If not i'd recommend it and it should flatten it out a bit. Have you tried leveling it while printing something. You can draw a circle the size of the bed pretty much, and run it and tweak it as it prints so you can actually see the thickness of the line it is printing is constant Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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