evssv Posted November 12, 2014 Share Posted November 12, 2014 (edited) 40-50 quid will buy u a brand new savox......but theres loads to choose from...I put a tower pro one in me boys...10 quid off eBay. ..better then stock....but not a savox..... Edited November 12, 2014 by evssv Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pockets snakes Posted November 12, 2014 Author Share Posted November 12, 2014 Ahh ok what about shocks as I would like slightly stiffer ones Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nitroholic Posted November 12, 2014 Share Posted November 12, 2014 Pointless adding loads of alloy to a Savage. All you will do is make it slower, heavier, and less reliable. Only bits I put on mine were alloy rear tie-rod deletes. I run thicker IRC chassis plates on one. I spent more time and money upgrading the diffs, using alloy diff cups , HotBodies hardened diff internals and the 19T pinion 'bulletproof' diff ring and pinion sets. Then just shim the diffs correctly. I don;t bother with alloy tank guards now as mine is mid-tanked, so the tank is inboard now. Steering wants a decent 10Kg torque or more metal geared servo. I converted my twin engined XL one to use a 1/5 scale servo.... Yours is an older model, so the first thing you want to do is strip it and look inside the diffs. The early ones ( 21 / 25 ) used a single cross shaft and 4 internal gears. The 35/SS had twin cross shafts and 6 internals which are better. If you plan on fitting a big motor....you want BP diffs as fitted to the XL or late model Savage Xs. You also have to watch out for the driveshafts. The later ones were thicker than the early ones...and stronger. You need to match the driveshafts to the diff outputs/axles. Last thing to watch for......silver/black axles. Silver ones have left hand threads. They ditched them later on ... but if you have silver axles on one side....watch out! They undo the other way Unless your gearbox was upgraded...it will be a 2 speed. Seriously...don't waste money on pointless shiny bits. Spend it making your truck better, or save it for when you break it. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pockets snakes Posted November 12, 2014 Author Share Posted November 12, 2014 Pointless adding loads of alloy to a Savage. All you will do is make it slower, heavier, and less reliable. Only bits I put on mine were alloy rear tie-rod deletes. I run thicker IRC chassis plates on one. I spent more time and money upgrading the diffs, using alloy diff cups , HotBodies hardened diff internals and the 19T pinion 'bulletproof' diff ring and pinion sets. Then just shim the diffs correctly. I don;t bother with alloy tank guards now as mine is mid-tanked, so the tank is inboard now. Steering wants a decent 10Kg torque or more metal geared servo. I converted my twin engined XL one to use a 1/5 scale servo.... Yours is an older model, so the first thing you want to do is strip it and look inside the diffs. The early ones ( 21 / 25 ) used a single cross shaft and 4 internal gears. The 35/SS had twin cross shafts and 6 internals which are better. If you plan on fitting a big motor....you want BP diffs as fitted to the XL or late model Savage Xs. You also have to watch out for the driveshafts. The later ones were thicker than the early ones...and stronger. You need to match the driveshafts to the diff outputs/axles. Last thing to watch for......silver/black axles. Silver ones have left hand threads. They ditched them later on ... but if you have silver axles on one side....watch out! They undo the other way Unless your gearbox was upgraded...it will be a 2 speed. Seriously...don't waste money on pointless shiny bits. Spend it making your truck better, or save it for when you break it. Ok that what I'll do then make it better Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gavin28 Posted November 13, 2014 Share Posted November 13, 2014 Cheap upgrades for your savage would be the roll cage and the better battery box off the later models if its still got the one with the 3 R-Clips keeping the lid on which are a pain. I bought this kit, about Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pockets snakes Posted November 13, 2014 Author Share Posted November 13, 2014 Hmm ill have to figure out witch I be it really is And yea has body clip box Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pockets snakes Posted November 13, 2014 Author Share Posted November 13, 2014 Hmm I'm kinda worried now as I dunno what he sold me yea it's a savage but witch Would there be writing on the block fir the 4.6? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
53HRA Posted November 13, 2014 Share Posted November 13, 2014 Hmm I'm kinda worried now as I dunno what he sold me yea it's a savage but witch Would there be writing on the block fir the 4.6? HPI released the Savage 25 with a red shell,and the Savage 21 with a grey and purple looking shell - But we cant tell if the shell might of been changed at some point by the original owner? If the chassis and shell look equally warn,it might be possible it's the original therefore a 25 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
norcoforever Posted November 13, 2014 Share Posted November 13, 2014 I can confirm it's not an 4.6 or an x wring engine wrong chassis wrong lots of bits but it makes no difference it's a savage go and enjoy it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pockets snakes Posted November 13, 2014 Author Share Posted November 13, 2014 He said the shell us one he had lying around oh I dunno I may have to put the bigger engine in so I know what I have I no it don't make a difference I just don't like been in lied to 351180931173 i found this but i also found one just like it witch I'm 5.9 hmm mind blown lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jordan_bench10 Posted November 13, 2014 Share Posted November 13, 2014 Your engine is sound fella thats a k4.6 I believe youve got a 25 with a hopped up engine If youve got a 3 speed box youve probably got a 25ss Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pockets snakes Posted November 13, 2014 Author Share Posted November 13, 2014 I dunno ill play with it see what gears I hit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DreXeL Posted November 13, 2014 Share Posted November 13, 2014 (edited) As said, an all alloy Savage would be useless at anything other than looking 'pretty' sat on a shelf. Diff upgrades should be your first point of call. Thicker TVPs from the likes of Innovative-RC or Alza Racing are a worthwhile upgrade, not only do they add strength, but they improve the way I'd drives because they lower the centre of gravity. Another weakness that is worth addressing is the bulkhead braces, they are prone to snapping after heavy one-sided impacts, and often take the bulkheads with them. Alza Racing bulkhead braces completely solve this problem. Alloy does have it's place, but only if you use decent manufacturers and use it where it actually has real benefits (like the above mentioned bulkhead braces) and not just to look shiny. Savage X A-arms are more than up to the job, my truck is heavy and I'm yet to break one. If you have the old style arms, an upgrade to the Savage X ones are very worthwhile. With a mixture of Alza and IRC upgrades my Savage is pretty nuke proof now, but there's no need to go that far, just upgrade to Savage X spec whenever you break things and enjoy it! Edited November 13, 2014 by DreXeL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pockets snakes Posted November 13, 2014 Author Share Posted November 13, 2014 Ok I'm in the process of buy loads of x parts I'm just in talks atm so should be good then So ally is off the cards for now I'll run it tonight and see how she goes what top speed will I get with it ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nitroholic Posted November 13, 2014 Share Posted November 13, 2014 Identifying an old Savage is like working out the genetic heritage of a mongrel dog. Don;t bother....... There is so much from the later trucks that swaps over, parts that get replaced are not always the 'original' spec. Heres some thigns to help you work out what you have: Suspension arms. Savage X has just one mounting point. Savage 35 and older have two...one above and one below. You can flip them over to go left or right, while x ones are only left or only right. Chassis side plates. X ones have a Big 'X' carved in the side as part of the cutouts. XL ones are longer at the back and have XL. Radio box. X on have a single clip at the back and slot in at the front. Early ones used 3 body clips Diff housings These changed completely on the X, and can have the front removed to get the diff out. Early ones require a complete strip. Bumper mounts differ as well. Diffs.... Savage 25 and earlier uses 2 planetary gears in each diff on a single cross shaft. Pop in a big motor and watch them fall apart. 13T pinion gears. 35 on got 4 planetary and 2 cross shafts. Better...but still with the 13T pinion. Late model X got the 9T pinion 'bulletproof' external gears which migrated over from the Flux model. Gearbox. As far as I know, only XL and SS came with a 3 speed out of the box, but reverse modules were an option on several models. SS was a kit version with upgrades. Most gearboxes will be two speed. Later X models have a seperate top section that allows removal of the slipper and upper shaft. Engines are not diagnostic....any big block will fit! Obviously....as the truck evolved, the driveline got better. Stick a 5.9 motor in a Savage 25, and you will rip the diffs apart in short order. The only way to be SURE what you have is to take it apart and give it a proper service and overhaul. I upgrade the diffs on all my Savages. Fill them with 10K silicon diff oil while I am at it...grease the external gears with CV grease and make sure they are properly shimmed. Do it right....and you do it once Fit a decent exhaust....the stock plastic one is poor. Lots of pipes to choose from. There are stiffer springs you can fit on the stock shocks, along with thicker shock oil. That helps a lot and is cheap. Otherwise....you are looking at spending on upgraded shocks/mounts. Just work out what you want from the truck, and we can advise you on how best to get there. The Savage is just about the most moddable truck ever, and it doesn't matter what your start point is THIS .... started out as a stock Savage 35: while THIS started out as a cheap Savage X roller in a very tatty state: Oh...and I notice you still haven't learnt the lesson about speed........Run it, and you tell US how fast it goes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DreXeL Posted November 13, 2014 Share Posted November 13, 2014 (edited) I've never understood people's obsession with the top speed figure. It's just a number. If your truck is running right and it feels fast enough for you, then it is fast enough, the actual figure is irrelevant. Edited November 13, 2014 by DreXeL 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DreXeL Posted November 13, 2014 Share Posted November 13, 2014 (edited) Mine started out as a bog standard 3.5 too. Too many upgrades to list later, and this is how she stands now: Sure, it's a bit of a 'Trigger's brush' in that there's not really anything of the original truck left, but it's a good illustration Nitroholic's excellent point about Savages, they are such a blank canvas that you can go anywhere with them! Here's my thread documenting the evolution of mine: http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/topic/142158-the-evolution-of-drexels-savage/ Edited November 13, 2014 by DreXeL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pockets snakes Posted November 13, 2014 Author Share Posted November 13, 2014 Ok so main qestion it appears mine I'd the 25 as seems Was it worth 150 as I've already been lied to now feel ripped off But oh well if I can adjust it make it better then I will Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DreXeL Posted November 13, 2014 Share Posted November 13, 2014 (edited) Edited November 13, 2014 by DreXeL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jordan_bench10 Posted November 13, 2014 Share Posted November 13, 2014 Ok so main qestion it appears mine I'd the 25 as seems Was it worth 150 as I've already been lied to now feel ripped off But oh well if I can adjust it make it better then I will Bear in mind your isnt bog standard it has a k4.6 engine which is one of the best engines hpi ever made niro wise and theyres your answer chap Servo wise need something stronger on a budget power hd 1501 mg 20 quid Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evssv Posted November 13, 2014 Share Posted November 13, 2014 Ok so main qestion it appears mine I'd the 25 as seems Was it worth 150 as I've already been lied to now feel ripped off But oh well if I can adjust it make it better then I willI paid 120 delivered for my boys 3.5 almost 3 years ago now...it was and still is a tidy truck. ...almost fault free the whole time and he beats the crap out of it as kids do..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pockets snakes Posted November 13, 2014 Author Share Posted November 13, 2014 I paid 120 delivered for my boys 3.5 almost 3 years ago now...it was and still is a tidy truck. ...almost fault free the whole time and he beats the crap out of it as kids do..... See you know what you got I don't lol You have 3.5 engine Mine us it the 4.6 or is it 2.5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nitroholic Posted November 13, 2014 Share Posted November 13, 2014 Your engine is a 4.6cc ( .28 ) and is not the motor the truck probably starter out with. For me...RC cars only have 3 speeds. 1) Not fast enough .... so I make it faster 2) Fast Enough ... no problem 3) Too fast ... go easy on the gas If you want speed....have a look at Bez's speed machine, and some of the guys doing some proper measured speeds.... http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/forum/141-rc-festival-of-speed-2014/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pockets snakes Posted November 13, 2014 Author Share Posted November 13, 2014 Ahh I see now I have 4.6 25 I see what you mean now sorry I'm kinda lost when it comes to things like this Tbh as long as I can rip the fields to bits I'm happy Also is there any way I can keep the handle with roll cage ?? Sorry to be a pain as it's a massive learning curve lol Oh do anyone know we're I can get the manual please Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DreXeL Posted November 13, 2014 Share Posted November 13, 2014 The roll cage replaces the handle. It's got a built in handle but it's plastic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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