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One more ST brushless conversion.


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8 hours ago, tamiyafanboy said:

Where did you get your motor fans please?

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F381360060399

You can also get it in blue

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F291668118528

 

I use a 4076 motor so I use 0.5mm thick thermal pads between the motor and the heatsink as the diameter of the heatsink is 40.8mm

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1 hour ago, Jumper said:

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F381360060399

You can also get it in blue

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F291668118528

 

I use a 4076 motor so I use 0.5mm thick thermal pads between the motor and the heatsink as the diameter of the heatsink is 40.8mm

OK cool, yes I think I have the same motor as you in my truck. Recently upped the Pinion a few teeth and its getting a bit warm now so looking into a fan 

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So at the last big bash my st had some serious camber and the front CVD kept popping out. It seems one of the M4 screw in the steering knuckle had pulled out and stripped. These screws are 10mm long, so i got some 12mm as the 10mm dont go all the way up the thread in the steering knuckle. 

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I think they will hold up much better now and I would recommend doing it as a cheap upgrade for anyone with a hyper ST, it should improve the durability.

@TheP0acher I would recommend doing this if you decide to get the CNC steering knuckles. :)  

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Got my new motor mount at last :D this mount is way easier to set the mesh on. I will have to see if the motor moves at all on the bigger jumps like it was on the old one. Also put the 1700Kv motor in as i got the 6s battery and put new thermal pads under the heatsink, i have used 1mm pads this time instead of 0.5mm and it seems a lot tighter. 

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8 hours ago, bertberr said:

What mount is that?

https://www.modelsport.co.uk/hobao-hyper-ss-vse-motor-mount/rc-car-products/372374 it's the same size as the hyper 8 one which I had before it has an extra screw hole to bolt it to the chassis which you can't use on the hyper St but it's still held in by 2 bolts like the hyper 8 mount so I don't think it should matter. :)

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I think i need to change the gearing and belt the tyres. Its a good job i got the max6 as well because i think a max8 would have blown up on this run XD.

 

New motor mount did a great job. Motor has not moved at all. 

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On 17/08/2018 at 07:03, Jumper said:

https://www.modelsport.co.uk/hobao-hyper-ss-vse-motor-mount/rc-car-products/372374 it's the same size as the hyper 8 one which I had before it has an extra screw hole to bolt it to the chassis which you can't use on the hyper St but it's still held in by 2 bolts like the hyper 8 mount so I don't think it should matter. :)

 

I would advise drilling the chassis for the extra mount hole, otherwise your mount can twist a little and give the gears an odd mesh.

 

best way I found was to get a long M4 grub screw (preferably one of the pointy ended ones) and screw it down the third mount hole whilst the motor mount is fitted to mark the hole on the chassis and then remove the mount and drill the hole and countersink it. When you fit it just use some washers to fill the gap between the chassis and mount on the third hole

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  • 5 months later...

 

 

 

Right, we have an update, i have done a few things since i last ran this, I have narrowed the front bumper, to stop the wheels rubbing on it as much. I have changed back to a 16t pinion. 

IMG_20190214_110121.jpg

Narrowed front bumper.

Also i took it out for a run on 6s this morning and ripped the wing off :( 

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Not sure if i will replace the wing, as i could put a truck body on it and make it like a longer truck than my MT410, but then the rear end will not have as much protection.

 

I am also running the badlands  that came with the MT410 as one of the HPI warlock wheels cracked pretty badly.

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On 22/08/2018 at 11:42, Wrighty8766 said:

 

I would advise drilling the chassis for the extra mount hole, otherwise your mount can twist a little and give the gears an odd mesh.

 

best way I found was to get a long M4 grub screw (preferably one of the pointy ended ones) and screw it down the third mount hole whilst the motor mount is fitted to mark the hole on the chassis and then remove the mount and drill the hole and countersink it. When you fit it just use some washers to fill the gap between the chassis and mount on the third hole

 

My mount doesnt have a predrilled hole. Is there away to cut a thread into the third leg? Drill a 2mm hole and use a self drilling screw? Would that work?

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I was going to just put the new wing and wing mount on the Hyper ST, ended up rebuilding the whole rear of the truggy. I also put on a rear hinge pin holder that i've had for a while.

old

IMG_20190217_182133.jpg

New

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IMG_20190220_003556.jpg

 

I got a black and a yellow wing, just in case i want to change it up :D 

 

I gave it a decent look over and i might need a new rear diff case as well, as the wing mounts were ripped of the current one. The front shocks seem to be lacking in oil as well, so i need to fix that too. :P I also think the centre diff needs some more 500k in it as it seems to be bleeding lots of power to the front again.

Edited by Jumper
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Looking good. I liked the video as well, I missed that before. What kv is the motor* and do you notice any difference with the Max6? I think it’s a good idea getting a Max6 as it’s not that much more than the Max8, in fact I will be purchasing a Max6 soon for mine.

 

*just noticed in previous threads you say you have a 1700kv. Mine is 1400kv so should be a bit slower on 6s.

Edited by Nickarla
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1 hour ago, Nickarla said:

Looking good. I liked the video as well, I missed that before. What kv is the motor* and do you notice any difference with the Max6? I think it’s a good idea getting a Max6 as it’s not that much more than the Max8, in fact I will be purchasing a Max6 soon for mine.

 

*just noticed in previous threads you say you have a 1700kv. Mine is 1400kv so should be a bit slower on 6s.

well i have had 2 150A esc, a hobbywing 150A with the blue casing and a quickrun 150A and both of them blew up, so i thought about getting the max8, but like you say the max6 isnt that much more, so i went with that. The only thing is its so heavy you have to made sure you use thick cable ties to strap it down, i had it taped and it fell off, then tape + cable ties and the ties snapped, then it fell off, then finally i have tape and 2 thick cable ties and so far its stayed in place :D 

 

The other thing i should say is the brake setup on the max6 is set for a 5090 motor, so on a smaller can it feels like the brakes are weak out the box, you can change it with a program card, then it is fine. 

 

and yes, i when from 2000kv down to 1700kv when i went from 4s to 6s. I have also run various gearing. 18/46, 16/46, 18/48 and now 16/48. the 16/46 was best on 4s with the 2000kv and the 16/48 is best for 6s with the 1700kv. I also considered going for a 1600kv 4082 can, but tbh the longer cans put too much stress on the motor screws and you see a lot of 4082/4092 motors where the front face of the motor get ripped off :scared:

Edited by Jumper
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That shouldn’t happen. Manufacturers know how big the cans are they should be making them strong enough...here’s hoping with my 4092, lol.

 

I'm gearing right down with a 52t spur and im experimenting with 9, 10 and 11t pinions on 6s as I’m looking for more torque and slower speeds (no more than 25mph)for going in the woods. I’ve no idea whether I’ll get that though as I’m waiting for my 6s and the Max6 to turn up. I’m a little concerned whether the motor mount is strong enough for the motor and wondering whether I can make a mount for the rear of the can.

Edited by Nickarla
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1 hour ago, Nickarla said:

That shouldn’t happen. Manufacturers know how big the cans are they should be making them strong enough...here’s hoping with my 4092, lol.

 

I'm gearing right down with a 52t spur and im experimenting with 9, 10 and 11t pinions on 6s as I’m looking for more torque and slower speeds (no more than 25mph)for going in the woods. I’ve no idea whether I’ll get that though as I’m waiting for my 6s and the Max6 to turn up. I’m a little concerned whether the motor mount is strong enough for the motor and wondering whether I can make a mount for the rear of the can.

Most long cans are suppose to be boat motors, thats why they have short screws, boats dont fly as high as cars :P 

 

With such lower gearing and kv, you could probably use a 150a easy. Its high gearing where the amps get drawn. 

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I didn’t intend to get a 4092 I just noticed CML having a clearance on one of their Tomcats for half price, thought it was worth a shot. I would try a Max8 but like we said, I may as well get the Max6 plus the Max8 motor limit is only 4274.

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7 minutes ago, Nickarla said:

I didn’t intend to get a 4092 I just noticed CML having a clearance on one of their Tomcats for half price, thought it was worth a shot. I would try a Max8 but like we said, I may as well get the Max6 plus the Max8 motor limit is only 4274.

Fair enough :P looks like the weather will be nice again tomorrow, so i'll be taking mine for a bash with the xray. Got a sneaky run in on friday afternoon after work on 4s and i could just about manage a single backflip. will be running both 4 and 6s tomorrow :D 

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Just checked, the motor is designed specifically for 1/8 cars so hopefully it’ll be strong enough. For over £100 (original price) it better be. I was thinking, just to give piece of mind, it might be worth making an end support out of a thick cable tie or jubilee clip and screw it into the chassis. 

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30 minutes ago, Nickarla said:

Just checked, the motor is designed specifically for 1/8 cars so hopefully it’ll be strong enough. For over £100 (original price) it better be. I was thinking, just to give piece of mind, it might be worth making an end support out of a thick cable tie or jubilee clip and screw it into the chassis. 

yeah if you make a clamp like the hyper mte has at the rear of the motor it should get rid of the leverage completely. 

hoad1515_motoresc.jpg.cc17299d33d5d22c8cca9d48c5cfa07a.jpg

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Perfect, that’s exactly what I was thinking of. 

...just checked the cost lol, where do they get prices from? this looks a good alternative with some drilling in the chassis or this. As per the MT, I’m thinking that mounting it mid way on the motor rather than at the end would be best incase there’s any chassis flex.

Edited by Nickarla
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On 23/02/2019 at 17:20, Jumper said:

. The only thing is its so heavy you have to made sure you use thick cable ties to strap it down, i had it taped and it fell off, then tape + cable ties and the ties snapped, then it fell off, then finally i have tape and 2 thick cable ties and so far its stayed in place :D 

 

 

Ive been googling how people attach their Max6 ESCs and while some recommend cable ties the vast majority don’t use anything other than tape. If you use cable ties doesn’t it obscure the fan? I can’t find any pictures of anyone doing this.

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17 hours ago, Nickarla said:

 

Ive been googling how people attach their Max6 ESCs and while some recommend cable ties the vast majority don’t use anything other than tape. If you use cable ties doesn’t it obscure the fan? I can’t find any pictures of anyone doing this.

i try get a picture for you. :good:

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