jim101092 Posted January 8, 2010 Share Posted January 8, 2010 Hi guys, Just wondering.... I've started charing my first LiPO pack and entered all the propmts correctly (4000mAh pack, charing 4A, 2s so 7.4v entered). I'm just a little confused over the amperage rating dropping steadily . It started at 4A and held it for about 6 minutes before it slowly started dropping. After 33 minutes the charge rating is now 1.65A..... I'm thinking that LiPOs (obviously) are charged differently to NiMH's, so is this steady reduction of charge rate due to the battery type? Cheers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamesChatz Posted January 8, 2010 Share Posted January 8, 2010 Hi all, I have a ansmann powerjack gp pro charger. I am trying to work out the charge time for my hump pack, the charger charges at 11.2 V, 200 mA. My hump pack is 1500 mah so how long/ how do I work out how long it will take to charge. Many Thanks in Advance, Adam. 1500(mAh) divided by 200(mA) = 7.5(hours) Hi guys, Just wondering.... I've started charing my first LiPO pack and entered all the propmts correctly (4000mAh pack, charing 4A, 2s so 7.4v entered). I'm just a little confused over the amperage rating dropping steadily . It started at 4A and held it for about 6 minutes before it slowly started dropping. After 33 minutes the charge rating is now 1.65A..... I'm thinking that LiPOs (obviously) are charged differently to NiMH's, so is this steady reduction of charge rate due to the battery type? Cheers. Yep, it's the way LiPos charge. The charge rate will keep dropping until they are fully charged. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jim101092 Posted January 8, 2010 Share Posted January 8, 2010 Ahh good good - Thanks for the confirmation . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hyperhumding Posted January 8, 2010 Share Posted January 8, 2010 Cheers James :] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
golly Posted February 7, 2010 Share Posted February 7, 2010 (edited) i think i put this in the wrong place Edited February 7, 2010 by golly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rustycan Posted February 8, 2010 Share Posted February 8, 2010 hi garry, could please add a bit about pairing up BL motors and ESCs coz ive got no idea! thanks rus Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garry Posted February 8, 2010 Author Share Posted February 8, 2010 What do you mean by pairing up? Its just a case of wiring them up according to the supplied instructions, and you're done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rustycan Posted February 8, 2010 Share Posted February 8, 2010 What do you mean by pairing up? Its just a case of wiring them up according to the supplied instructions, and you're done. any motor with any ESC? what are if any the restrictions? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garry Posted February 9, 2010 Author Share Posted February 9, 2010 Ahh, okies. Sensorless ESC with sensored and sensorless motors (but sensored motors won't run that smoothly). Sensored ESC with sensored motors only. Stick to turn limits if reccomended by the ESC, stick to KV limits if reccomended by the ESC, but don't mix and match KV rated motors with motors listed with turns, as they aren't 100% directly compatible. And stay with the same size supplied motor or smaller (so a System supplied with a 540-sized motor should in theory run smaller 380-sized motors, but not 550/600-sized motors, if you stick to the KV/Turn rating again). Those are safe limits, some ESCs can run harder with different software but not all, so better to be safe than sorry. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rustycan Posted February 9, 2010 Share Posted February 9, 2010 thanks for that, helps a lot! i think you should copy this into the guide as some people wont read this far Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yrkoon Posted February 27, 2010 Share Posted February 27, 2010 nice guide very informative Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hyperhumding Posted June 19, 2010 Share Posted June 19, 2010 Hi All, The question I'm about to ask is probably so incredibly noob-ish you are all going to hate me The battery in my Micro- T is 150mah so to charge at 1C I would have to charge at 0.1A correct? The wall charger I have has a variable rate of charge as follows: 50mA/ 80mA/ 120mA/ 180mA/ 240mA and 300mA. So to charge at 1C (0.1A) Which setting should I opt for? Also how many mA are there in 1A? (For future reference) Many Thanks in Advance, Adam. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TiM! Posted June 20, 2010 Share Posted June 20, 2010 I charge mine at 0.2A. My brother is even worse though, he has no patience so charges at 0.3A. It does not get too hot, but it can't be good for the life of the pack. Out of those I would use 120mA Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hyperhumding Posted June 20, 2010 Share Posted June 20, 2010 I charge mine at 0.2A. My brother is even worse though, he has no patience so charges at 0.3A. It does not get too hot, but it can't be good for the life of the pack. Out of those I would use 120mA Cheers :] Also the chargers instructions says that to work out time you have to use the equation: Battery Capacity x 1.4/ mA Charge Rate I thought that it should be Battery Capacity/ mA Charge Rate? Which equation should I use? Thanks, Adam. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Posted October 14, 2010 Share Posted October 14, 2010 I'm working on some motors at the moment and made a handy chart, although there is no 'true' conversion here's a good idea for those wondering. Remember, KV is not a measurment of power but RPM per volt. Brushless motors should be rated in KV ideally but for racers and gearing, turns seems a little more logical. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nitroholic Posted October 14, 2010 Share Posted October 14, 2010 If a 3.5T brushless 540 motor is doing 10500 RPM/volt.....running that a 3S....11.1V .... that would mean the motor would spin up to 116550Rpm....which is nearly 2000 rotations per second. If that's reading it right...that's insane! No wonder they make our cars go fast Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Posted October 14, 2010 Share Posted October 14, 2010 If a 3.5T brushless 540 motor is doing 10500 RPM/volt.....running that a 3S....11.1V .... that would mean the motor would spin up to 116550Rpm....which is nearly 2000 rotations per second. If that's reading it right...that's insane! No wonder they make our cars go fast And very inefficent. You shouldn't really be running 3.5t on anything more than 3s anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
henzy190 Posted October 20, 2010 Share Posted October 20, 2010 section D06 on lipos says they aren't race legal, I'm sure thats not true but I'm not a leccy person. Probs down to it being written in 2006 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garry Posted October 20, 2010 Author Share Posted October 20, 2010 Well spotted, I've taken it out. I'll do a rewrite soon too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TiM! Posted October 21, 2010 Share Posted October 21, 2010 Just tried the salt water thing. Left it for well over a week in water that was so full of slat it wasn't dissolving it any more and there's no sign of the tabs inside corroding. Removed them myself when I took the pack apart to see if it had worked. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garry Posted October 21, 2010 Author Share Posted October 21, 2010 It could be possible that the pack has silver tabs rather than aluminium? I wouldn't have thought that was likely with LiPo but you could buy silver battery bars for assembling NiMH packs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TiM! Posted October 21, 2010 Share Posted October 21, 2010 Was just a cheap zippy pack. Was aiming for the lipo guide thread but I seem to have missed somewhat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stock_Nitro Posted October 30, 2010 Share Posted October 30, 2010 Very helpful guide, thank you However i've noticed the links in: (H02) (H07) (H10) No-longer work anymore Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boomer_193 Posted January 6, 2011 Share Posted January 6, 2011 Fantastic guide. I have NiMh, stick packs (1800 and 4600), AA's, a receiver pack and a glow starter, and am soon upgrading to Lipos. I had no idea what I was doing and was thinking how best to ask what I needed to do (already have an Imax B6 charger). I now know what current to charge at for all of my NiMh's and what to do with my lipos when i receive them, could not have asked for better. Thanks lads. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billyb_imp Posted March 15, 2011 Share Posted March 15, 2011 Some great advice here especially for an old newbie like me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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