NITO Posted August 18, 2015 Share Posted August 18, 2015 It'll never be an ambi-turner (If Zoolander made monster trucks lol) 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nohero Posted August 18, 2015 Share Posted August 18, 2015 Shocks arrived today. Was wheeling from stand still after foam inserts and tyres glued but now with firm shocks it only wheels after sticking it in reverse. 75mm front 85mm rear. Handles better though. New motor tomorrow hopefully That front camber in reverse is becoming more and more noticeable. Easy fix or rebuilding the front? Or of course don't bother as I only notice it in reverse mostly. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JED Posted August 18, 2015 Share Posted August 18, 2015 I used 75mm all round, so mine is not as rased as your at the back,. which I would imagine will make the wheelies easier... If you get the proper tamiya CW01 shocks (84365), the build instructions make you put shock limiters up front - these are design to limit the shock travel and stop the camber in reverse you mention. This is about 10-15mm of tubing over the bar inside the springs up front. It stops full compression. you could try adding something like this.... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nohero Posted August 18, 2015 Share Posted August 18, 2015 Sounds good, wonder if swapping front and rear so higher at the front also a good idea. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tagnut69 Posted August 18, 2015 Share Posted August 18, 2015 I would imagine that if you had longer ones at the front it would wheelie again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nohero Posted August 18, 2015 Share Posted August 18, 2015 Think my problem was slippery floor, just took it outside and it's fine The reverse camber issue at the front is an issue. Just popped in a couple of the spacers and it's better. Assume these things just clip in to adjust spring load? No fixing required? Seems like I'll lose them Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noj Posted August 18, 2015 Share Posted August 18, 2015 No, they will stay securely in place with the tension of the spring, as it becomes greater the more spacers inserted 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nohero Posted August 18, 2015 Share Posted August 18, 2015 Cheers. Just went for a bash and it feels completely different. Not sure if front too stiff as feels wilder on loose dirt but also cooler as its now donutting. Amazed how it's faster with the tyre inserts, I guess they were causing friction or drag before. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PraetoR Posted August 20, 2015 Share Posted August 20, 2015 Nohero, the only way to fully sort the camber issue is to fit the FX10 Kit. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FRONT-SUSPENSION-KIT-Blue-Futaba-FX10-Tamiya-Striker-No-Shocks-Team-CRP-1626-/231622656304 I don't know why that one's blue, most of them are black. They are extremely rare now. This, essentially, transforms the front end of the Lunch Box into a rudimentary double wishbone set-up. The FX10 Kit is not made for the Lunch Box, though, so modding is required! This sorts the famous Lunch Box front-end flaw. It's easy to see: Pick up you Lunch Box and compress one of the front shocks. The wheel goes up (naturally), but it also starts to lean-in, towards the chassis. The more you compress the shock, the more the wheel leans (increasing negative-camber). In other words, the amount of front camber is exactly linked to the amount of suspension compression. When you reverse, the Lunch Box nose-dives considerably, compressing the front suspension and giving ridiculous camber (and toe-in). If you fit stiffer shocks/springs, or spacers, they help resist compression and, therefor, reduce the amount of camber change. This only helps reduce the effect, however, and does not sort out the fundemental flaw. As a result: Each time you take a corner, the amount of suspension compression varies considerably, due to a number of different factors: speed, body-lean, steering angle, direction change, surface quality, grip levels, debris on the surface, surface smoothness etc etc etc. With a normal, double-wishboned RC , this is not a problem, since the wheel camber remains absolutely constant, regardless of suspension compression. With a Lunch Box, however, because the amount of negative wheel camber is directly linked to the suspension compression... it handles completely differently every single time it turns!!! This doesn't bother me in the slightest. I have many fine-handling RCs, I enjoy the Lunch Box BECAUSE it is daft, useless and rubbish. However, if you are serious about improving the way it handles, some decent shocks and the FX10 kit (combined with 5th shock mod, which I assume you've done?) are the most effective methods of doing so. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndySeven Posted August 21, 2015 Share Posted August 21, 2015 What is a good choice of steering servo for Pumpkin/Lunchbox? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nohero Posted August 21, 2015 Share Posted August 21, 2015 Thanks praet0r87 I love the wildness to be honest it's fun. With the oil shocks it's great and I have a shock on the way for 5th shock mod. I've now got a Super Stock BZ in and its bonkers, I love it even more! Considering LiPO next or may just get a larger regular battery. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PraetoR Posted August 21, 2015 Share Posted August 21, 2015 AndySeven, any decent, cheap standard servo. No point in wasting a really expensive, or powerful, servo on a LB/MP chassis. I've used this one in a few models and it works well. http://www.modelsport.co.uk/alturn-usa-standard-deluxe-ball-bearing-waterproof-servo/rc-car-products/371888 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NITO Posted August 21, 2015 Share Posted August 21, 2015 (edited) Thanks Praetor, I always wondered how good/reliable these might be, nice to get some real world feedback, they look nicely made and specced, might have to deviate and give it a try. Ps. My lunchbox is running a crappy plastic geared acoms servo, the CW01 chassis doesn't sem to be particularly punishing on steering servo. Edited August 21, 2015 by NITO Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nohero Posted August 22, 2015 Share Posted August 22, 2015 First proper outing with new shocks and I break a front one! Hardly hit it so surprised. Time to put the bottom of the original shocks on to the new ones! Surprised they went so easily as the old ones have been so robust. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nohero Posted August 22, 2015 Share Posted August 22, 2015 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nohero Posted August 22, 2015 Share Posted August 22, 2015 All sorted. It's funny as a newbie to the hobby I've gone from being annoyed about things breaking to enjoying the process of fixing and repairing [emoji3] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danb1974 Posted August 22, 2015 Share Posted August 22, 2015 Just found out why a cheap plastic servo might not be such a good choice. Mine ended up enlarging servo output shaft hole, to the point I can barely keep the servo saver on using a longer screw. Because servo is linked directly to wheels, all forces go straight back and try to tear the saver off the shaft. On the other hand, why is the steering angle so small? It's 2wd so there is no popping bones out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nohero Posted August 22, 2015 Share Posted August 22, 2015 Shocks are puzzling me a bit. Nice new firm oil shocks, after a few runs they are nowhere near as firm. Is that normal? No sign of oil leaks and the rear ones remain firm so guessing the front ones take more from running over stuff. Much more stable in general though and handling loads better, but occasions it trips up on its own front wheel Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danb1974 Posted August 23, 2015 Share Posted August 23, 2015 I used a bunch of shock spacers on the front shocks, from day one, because the front end seemed so soft compared to the rear end 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atom3624 Posted August 23, 2015 Share Posted August 23, 2015 How tight was the piston on the shaft - might be a bit 'wobbly' allowing the oil to pass more quickly? Al. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nohero Posted August 23, 2015 Share Posted August 23, 2015 Seems like it isn't wobbly but worth me checking Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nohero Posted August 24, 2015 Share Posted August 24, 2015 Running much smoother now, think it just needed to all bed in a bit. Engine is super fast now which means it flips over more unless I ease of a bit on turns. Fun fun fun! Tempted to get another lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mansnake Posted August 29, 2015 Share Posted August 29, 2015 Hi Guys, So payday has come round again and i'm looking at upgrading to a lipo battery. I have this ESC - http://www.modelsport.co.uk/hobbywing-quicrun-1060-brushed-esc/rc-car-products/382831 which only has a Tamiya battery plug on it but the ESC supports Lipo. Would it be a case of stripping the tamiya plug off and resoldering a deans connector on? or do i need to replace the cable also for higher current's? The battery im looking at is this one - http://www.modelsport.co.uk/nvision-7.4v-sport-lipo-3700-45c-deans-/rc-car-products/380174 Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oodboo Posted August 29, 2015 Share Posted August 29, 2015 The cable will be fine so just solder on a dean's connector making sure you get the polarity correct (obviously). Do you already have a Lipo charger? Fire proof charge sacks are also recommended. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JED Posted August 29, 2015 Share Posted August 29, 2015 So payday has come round again and i'm looking at upgrading to a lipo battery. I would consider this one for a few reasons http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/221180788891?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT cheaper, more mAh, soldering not required, soldering not required if you change your ESC, and you won't have to take the shell off to get the battery out for charging (connection is battery side) Tried and tested this end - i have them in both of mine. Need to check if you need an lipo low voltage cut off though, if it not built into your esc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.