danb1974

Better safe than sorry, especially for newcomers.

Looks like what CC-01 should have been and is not. For realism ifs looks so much better on so many bodies.

Did not finish the morning coffee, but do I see a deans to tamiya adapter in an official tamiya photo...? Maybe after the tamiya melts, you can solder the deans directly

Any ideea on what servo size would fit? Also, for 2x2S run, do I need a motor in the 4000kV range?

The old 1:24 losi micro is perfectly driveable inside, with the stock 4-cell nimh, and the brushless having 2.4ghz radio is hassle free. The new one which comes with 2S lipo... probably not so much. At this scale, you'll need a pretty flat suface if you want to play outside.

For outdoor fun the 230S may be a better choice. As for the ah64 landing gear, which breaks in the highlighted point, I used pieces of plastic tube that prevent it from flexing.

If you fancy a scaler (not a competition crawler), have a look at axial (scx10), vaterra (ascender), rc4wd, mst (cmx), cross-rc, tamiya (cr-01) Kit or rtr depends on building experience, desired performance level and other things.

The two outputs are wired together (similar to using a Y cable to split a single output)

It is efficient only if both packs are more or less equally discharged, because most chargers have very weak balancers (ever tried to balance a badly unbalanced pack? it takes forever and some)

The series charge cable as pictured is correctly wired and yes I use it. The balance series adapter was purchased as seen and is correctly wired, no need to cut any wires. If you look closely, inner red and black are wired together (yes you can cut one of them but there is no need, they are also wired together via the power cable). But if you pair wrong the power and balance connectors, you get yourself a short. Watch the outer red and black of the balance cable in relation to red and black of the power cable. Once correctly assembled (that's what the zip ties are for, to make sure I can't do mistakes), I can charge 2x2S even if not equally discharged. A dual charger still remains the safest bet, especially if you are not familiar with how lipos are wired. Only use series charging if you understand all the wiring.

I would stay away from parallel charger boards and use a dual charger instead. (because if you accidentally connect a charged lipo with a discharged one, it will not be fun) You can use a serial charger adapter which is safer - but with a 50W charger, it will only charge 2x2S with 3.2Amps

Yeah, tamiya is kind of making money from nice memories, selling the same 80's designs again and again, all the flaws and shortcomings still in the box (except the trf series, but those are expensive)

It's a crawler, is top speed and power such is a concern for your son? Yes there will be a decrease in top speed - unless you can fit a 7-cell nimh. You can go with a higher capacity nimh (depending on what fits on the car, size-wise) but you need a decent nimh charger with peak detection - money wise it's not really worth it, just safety wise. Also if nimh left several months unused, it needs a few cycles to wake up.

From the tamiya lineup, the tb-04 should require so much less basic upgrades out of the box. Just check if the wheelbase fits desired shell. Maybe get the shell you want in the form of the tt01 kit, sell the rest of the kit nib, keep the shell and wheels Did that once with a tamiya xb (xpert build - aka rtr) kit, just for the beatifully factory painted shell

My hobby charger has a lead (Pb) battery program, so it can charge car batteries. I suspect most of the "4 button plus lcd" rc chargers have that program.

Have a look at Savox SW-0250MG

The fuse should prevent batteries catching fire when the esc shorts out. Better only change the esc under warranty than have the whole car burn.

You cannot compare a premium kit (keywords being premium _and_ kit) with a (more or less) affordable rtr car in which the manufacturer has to put cheapest electronics that does not instantly burn, to keep the price tag accessible Sure a $2000+ car built from a premium kit plus titanium upgrades and having best electronics you can get for it is pretty much bomb proof Just look at the stock electronics in a team associated rival (1:8 monster truck - 6kg with batteries) and have a good laugh (max 4s / 80amps esc, dual nimh batteries, 10kg servo - the esc goes first, than the servo, don't ask how I know). Then try a bigger jump and start breaking shocks.

If you fancy a scale crawler/trekker rather that just a crawler, you can look at either losi micro trail trekker (if you want rtr) or at orlandoo oh35p01 if you want a kit

This type of charger usually has 3 independent channels, each with his own led (like three 1s chargers in one box). Each led indicates the status of it's own channel (which translates to a cell from the pack). Yours sounds broken. Maybe is has some bad solders inside, cheap electronics do this.

The Losi 2.4ghz dsm transmitter should pair with any spektrum dsm ground (not air) compatible receiver, including the sr210. Not the orangerx one though as that one is dsm2 only.

I use orangerx gr300 with my dx3c. Most analogue servos will not work and one esc had an issue. Digitals servos are fine.

You can also have a look at the vaterra ascender, it seems better out of the box

If you plan to stay into drifting, a dedicated drift chassis would be a better long term investment than hopping up and entry level one